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Absolutely fine . What I use are Eibach hub centric type

I am running pretty much identical to you @CUB but 20mm up front . Had no issues at all . [emoji1303]

As said - middle plug is a 60amp fused live and also earth . 3rd plug eBay supplied plug , wires into the column white connector

Don't want to sound off , I would never ever run bolt to hub spacers . I run the stud thru the spacer type on my Ph1 and never had an issue . Also I wouldn't want to keep pulling the wheels off to check the 4 bolts for them . It'll piss me off no end .

Just what I needed to know , 25mm [emoji1303]. Will be ordering some wire soon , thanks for that Graham

What happens when you take the No1 fuse out ?

That in theory should work, the two circuits joined into one control . Trial and error I guess .

Is yours a Ph2 ? , if so the warning lamp may still be on over the multi plex , so I'd say the UCH needs to be told you don't have an airbag at all. That will only work is the airbag warning lamp function correctly , in which case his is staying on , so if you connected to that circuit your...

Just one thought , what gauge wire have you used to power the ECU and then on to the motor. Just thinking poss it might be stalling ?

Sorry I'm confused with your reply . No resistors any more all gone . Every single wire for the airbag gone . Absolutely nothing left , oh except the bulb in the cluster which has no wire to it now lol

Ah ok , then wouldn't the motor or column be an issue rather than the rack ?

That's not right , what's it feel like then ? What rack are you using ?

If yours is can networked like Ph2 then I'm assuming the light may come on after removal of ECU . Mine did as its a default to do that . Warning lamp line is earthed and boom she pings up . But with all the wires now gone on mine the warning lamp line doesn't exist now , so no light at all .

Nope

That's the one I have also

I don't have one , I just took the lot out , power and Earth go to loom joint behind glovebox , all other wires cut out . One goes to lamp in cluster , all others from ECU go to bags and sensors . Bin that lot .

Cracking read [emoji1303] Bloody good effort also. Will read all of the thread later . I'm also in the middle of doing my loom . So far I've removed Rear loom for wiper and lock loom Also airbag loom and aircon/heater . Just need to sort out the EPAS wiring while I'm in the area...

Outer joints don't knock off no . Inner joints need to be removed and the gator slides down the shaft .

If only these were fitted before your off . [emoji12] I had a similar off at Bedford and my front bumper saw the grass . Thank god for cable ties .

I did the same , the raised curve of the lid I pumped a little bit of sealer around the edges. I did mine across rather than down as it kept the amount of coming through the side of the tailgate to a minimum. The water still comes in . Every time I open the lid , water that's come in through...

Couple of scenarios : 1 ) If ECU is still fitted and bags all removed , fit cheap resistors in plugs , lamp goes off for MOT happy days . 2) If loom and ECU are no longer fitted lamp will not come on anyway so that's an MOT advise then . 3 ) If loom is still in car , bags and ECU removed...

Rake [emoji1303] love it

Check the inlet manifold gasket . Spray water around the inlet where it bolts to the cylinder head . The green coloured gaskets were prone to leaking .

Ouch sad times : where abouts was your off just out of interest . Handbrake cables off , flexy hoses off , make sure you spray up the axle nuts and bolts securing it to the car as I've heard they can be a right ball ache to undo . If the rear shocks haven't been off in a while , spray...

To be honest . If you look about for a good second hand cat , have a look inside and check the monolith cell , if it's not loose of blocked it should be a good to go 2nd hand option . Look up Renparts on eBay .

Is it a genuine OE replacement cat or a Micky mouse one ? Normally the Micky mouse cats are not efficient . I'd be looking for a good 2nd hand OE cat and go from there. The sensors should be ok .

Did my O/S inner Only needed the one . If it's the N/S your doing , might be cheaper to get a second hand "good" shaft , but would you know it's a good'n. Might just be worth buying the gaitor's and doing them. Part number Genuine OE part. I wouldn't use anything else .

Nice update , shame the car is 75miles odd away . It'll all come together soon enough . Now the sun is out - full steam ahead i suspect .

Id say it's up to you if you wanted to fit a 6pk. The only reason it would jump is if it was off line . Never heard of a belt jumping through normal operation . 5pk is the norm to fit . Good question

Ok - now it's clearer , we know what your after. I'm pretty sure that set up was not only GTX R5. I'm guessing other R5 , 9 , 11 would be very similar if not the same . IE the metal plate that bolts to the block .