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I'll see what I can do mate. Never uploaded a pic before so I'll do my best!

The thermoformed ones are the same shape as the original glass so it fits into the tailgate and rear quarters properly. Use Sikaflex to bond them in as well. I paid more than 400 for mine but they were with the oe black borders and the oe look green tint. My front windows don't open either, i...

After chatting with Curtis at ast, the sportline 2's are the more track focused option that's out there without blowing 2k+ on kw's Motorsport set-up. With the ast's you specify what spring rates you want and the dampers are valved to work with them within a set range, so you could go softer on...

You can "modify" the v2 kit to be more suited to the track work. I have done with mine but it meant getting stuff revalved to suit. Now it works just how I want it to and it's not horrendous on the road really. Doesn't rattle your fillings out! Lol

Yep I have the full kit in my track cup. Got thermoformed all round with the oe black border. Expensive but excellent fit. Nice guys to deal with as well.

From experience its so much easier to just ring up the companys you want to buy bits from. That way you can ask them any random questions you may have about the product they offer. I have the Pure Motorsport rear beam bearing kit + rear camber shims and i rang up to place my order. It arrived...

Ports are Cnc'd from the factory mate.

Buckets and harnesses are mint - right up to the point when your strapped in and can't reach the door to close it because you forgot, or you want to adjust the heater! Lol! Trust me, it happens! They do hold you in place so much better though. I do the 10hr drive to the Nurburgring in mine as...

Sbp are based in Nottingham mate so not far from you really. They did my track car dash. Well chuffed with the results!

Even the KW V2's give understeer out mate. I run them and even on the stiffest setting they're to soft for track. I'm getting mine revalved, shortened and then running shorter and stiffer rear springs. Front dampers and springs are spot on though tbh with the V2's.

Gen90 is GEMS software based for anyone who wants to know. Found out off a guy who has a lot of dealings with GEMS.

Ah i see! They're designed to be mounted to the original seatbelt mounting points if i rememeber right. In the uk you just need the FE release mechanism to be road legal.

Yhpm. Can't see the engine managment light and coilpack light causing you a problem tbh. I know a decent garage in Lincoln that would do your mot and not be bothered about the warning lights. They don't do bent mot's, they're just understanding as they have had track toys themselves.

Really!? Which one's have you got? I've got Profi 111-fe asm with added crutch strap.

Its only safety related function warning lights that will cause it to fail mot as of 2012 according to my mate who's a mot tester. If a car is equipped with abs for instance, if you then remove the entire abs system it can't fail its mot. Obviously on a cup abs is not a issue but the airbag side...

Yeah fair point mate. I'm only going off the fitting instructions that came with my schroth harnesses. They were pretty specific about how the lap, shoulder and crutch strap should be positioned so I just did as it said. I looked on the net for any info I could find regards mounting harnesses...

The harness mountings are supposed to spaced no wider than your hips believe it or not. They are also meant to be within a certain angle range. They will f**k you up worse than a drive by if your in a accident and they're not mounted correctly mate.

I can assure you mate that to fit the 197 inlet to a 172 head requires a hell of a lot of work as i've done it myself!!

Hello mate, I have a road legal cup track car that I use at the nurburgring so I'm very interested in this. I run a v6 airbox so would need a 100mm feed if possible? Also what sort of price are we looking at to get this carried out? Cheers.

Thanks mate! I should've put a project thread up on here when I built it. Just never got round to it.

No problem mate. Hope they were of some use.

The return pipes are the larger diameter pipe. Look in demon thieves for oil mate. I'll look on mine tomorrow to see what size the pipes are.

Yes that's it mate. Only on the return line. Also I'd run some decent pas fluid. That's one of the biggest killers of pas pumps and racks tbh. It's worthwhile changing the fluid regularly if your tracking it alot.

You can buy water cooled pas fluid reservoirs. Expensive but they work! Failing that plumb a normal engine oil cooler in on the pas fluid return line. Got to be return line as it's not under any pressure.

Best compromise is to fit electric pas from a Saxo/106. 5-6 bhp gain from removing pas ain't worth it in my opinion. I've removed mine and refitted it on my cup track car.

To remove the PAS you need a link pipe that goes on the steering rack, fill the rack with oil and remove all the other PAS stuff. Simple really mate.

Check the earth points on the dash bar mate. There's 3 of them if i remember right and if they're loose they cause this sort of issue. Normally make the wipers move when you lock it up on the key fob! Bags o shite! lol

Yes mate. Pm me your email address and i'll send them to you. I've bonded the door handles into the door cards as well, so the internal skin of the door can be cut out. All thats left to do with them is get them flocked to match my dash. I see your in Lincoln as well! My home town!! Parents...

I made some door cards up out of 3mm black foamalux! I don't have opening windows as such because i'm using perspex, but on my trip to the 'Ring in july it wasn't bad at all. I've got a fully stripped and caged cup. The stereo was retained and i just mounted the original speakers in the door...

A bit of electrical tape folded in half will sort the airbag light! You need to take the clocks apart to do it and slide it under the facia of the clocks. Easier than it sounds.