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If your working in Munich for 5 months I'd be getting the car over there as well to get some ring laps in!!

The springs become dislocated from their seats as well if you go to low. That's why they fit helper springs on most coilover sets. Ideally they should have the pistons in the dampers shortened as well to limit the amount of droop you get at full extension. You can have custom springs made by...

I think what Tony is saying is that if your tracking is out/adjusted to 1 degree toe in/out then it's been done wrong! Very wrong! It just points out that the "minutes" or "mm" measurement is the one the op should expect to see on the steering alignment. Or at least that's my take on it anyway.

I wish I'd thought of doing mine that way before I got it flocked! I've got the same cage as you just minus the a pillar brackets. I managed to get it pretty neat considering the a pillar tubes come inwards, and the gap around the tube/dash is pretty small.

I'd leave it all in and just tape it up out of the way especially if you have little time. Then look into building a new loom when your not competing during the end of the season. Time wise to build a loom from scratch your looking at about 10-12 hours worth of work if your doing the entire...

I've removed alot of the associated stuff your wanting to remove from the car and wiring loom on a 172 cup. It all comes down to how technically minded you are really, but as Tony says be warned! I do this sort of stuff daily for a living and i even managed to remove one wire too many! Luckily i...

And it varies from the size of the wheel its measured on if you go proper old school and use Dunlop gauges!!

For the track I use v power and get good mpg on the way home if there's some left in the tank. I've seen 47mpg according to the computer but I'm not convinced I believe that myself. For blasts out on the road I use normal 95 Ron fuel without any problems at all and tbh you can't tell the...

it does make alot more sense as you say. so, you drill holes into the sill side and then through the exhaust tunnel. But where the tube is in the exhaust tunnel, surely thats left open (so the inner of the tube is open to the elements).... that can't be a good thing Yeah the end of the tube is...

Especially if you know steve milton eh chip!

I only welded the tubes to the strengthening plates after they were welded to the shell. I didn't weld the tubes to the sills/tunnel as the hole needs to be bigger than the tube to get it slot in. Make sense?

It cost me £100 to have all the glass removed and the plastic stuff fitted in it's place. Door glass is a doddle to get out but front screen, rear screen and rear quarters are bonded in so not as easy to get out. You can do it yourself with a stanley knife but for the cost involved I'd just...

The rail kit I bought uses the 25mm tubes and it was the cheapest as well iirc. Yeah it comes in separate pieces so it can be made to suit all different widths of sidemounts. You drill the holes for the tubes to pass through, then put the strengthening plates over the tubes/holes and weld them...

I put seat rails in my track car. It's easy to do as well. Just make sure you measure everything up and get it square to the sills/tunnel. Also make sure the bars are level. I bought the rail kit from Tweeks and found it to be excellent quality. Get it built and enjoy the car mate. I put a lot...

Ah that's interesting then because the gasket matched the size of the inlet ports. That's why I matched it to the gasket. How far should I have gone then out of interest? I'm genuinely interested to know as I have another lower inlet sat in my shed.

Look out for the "RS" marked lower inlet. They are better than the non Rs marked lower inlets and require less work.

Difficult to say really mate. I'd like to think so, but in all honesty I really couldn't tell. For reference though, I went up against a ph1 that was stripped out with only a pair of bucket seats and a dash, and I was in mine which is stripped out but has the added weight of a cage and I was...

I used a carbide burr in a electric drill, then polished up with 60 grit paper in a flap wheel. Yeah I just ported the lower inlet out to the gasket size top and bottom, then made sure the top half matched the lower part of the manifold.

Yep i did mine myself. Absolute doddle to do if you've got the equipment.

I run -2.5 on the front of mine and use it on the road and the track. Tyre wear is fine as long as the tracking is adjusted correctly.

Absolutely love it!! Lots of lols at that!

What do you want to know from Scania mate? Thats who i work for!

Yes mate. The one that goes on to the thermostat housing. I would guestimate it to be about 30/32mm. I'm sure someone will be able to confirm 100% though.

Your better off ringing them to discuss your requirements and they'll point you in the right direction. From memory I bought the smallest one they do as it was originally used to keep my straight cut gearbox cool, but now it's going into my track Clio. Yeah it's a cup. I'll measure it...

I dealt direct with mocal when I got mine. I think I paid around £160 ish for it.

Yes mate they're the ones.

I use a 175amp mega fuse on mine. Do a search for mega fuses and holders, that should bring something up. I use 35mm2 cable. We use it at work for power supply over 7mtrs and the loss of amps/volts is very minimal. It's also very expensive so I'm glad I "borrowed" it!!

That's the one! Excellent bit of kit. You can strip them down in the event of engine failure and clean them out as well. It adds maybe 5-8 oC to the coolant temperature at the very most.

I use a laminova oil cooler to cool the gearbox oil on my other car. It fits in the cooling system and oil passes through it. It works very very well and they're nice and compact. Downside is they ain't cheap. I will be using one to cool the oil on my track car eventually. I'll get some pictures...

They look the same as the one's from demon tweeks. Thats where i bought mine from.