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I used to know them very well! Lar's fabricated my entire fuel system, a tubular turbo manifold and various other bits and pieces! The guy is a proper legend tbh! And yeah the welding they do is epic!
I found the v2's too soft at the rear for track work really. I got the rear dampers re-valved and had custom rear springs made to improve it. It's absolutely brilliant now though and doesn't require a gum shield for the drive home!!
The ast's are available in a track spec straight out the box...
Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He
Having less adjustability is sometimes more advantageous anyway really. It's all to easy to get carried away making adjustments here and there. Carrying out one adjustment and then testing it out to see if...
Whilst that is technically feasible, it's not the done thing. You would find the engine to be very noisy from cold as well. If your reboring the block you need to go oversize pistons to suit. You could always go high comp and have them machined to get back to near standard compression ratio.
Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He
Should I expect some middle of the night phonecalls if your going to tinker then? ;-)
The cup my mate had bent my head for ages as it was coming up as pedal track 1&2 incoherent. I removed the loom, the throttle pedal and everything else related to it but no faults found! In the end I swapped everything over off my car one by one (time-consuming and a right pita!) only to find...
A mate of mine had df129 on his cup and it turned out to be the vvt solonoid! Work that out. Took ages to find and it was doing the same thing as Pete's.
Yes you can mount a race battery flat mate. If you mount it under your seat just make sure you've got enough space between the base of the seat and the battery. I can measure mine for you if you need to know how tall they are (including the holder) for a varley redtop 25.
They will do all the valves if your getting it ported out anyway mate. In fact they should be able to do the job lot, from skimming to porting so it's a ready to fit package.
You should only skim off the minimum that's req'd. Does it definitely need skimming? I'd say no more than 10-15 thou would be the most. It will raise your c/r as well but only a very small amount.
Cadwell is a awesome little circuit for clios.
If a jobs worth doing it's worth doing right. That applies to everything as far as I'm concerned, not just Motorsport. There's too many people that cut corners when doing these sorts of things, then cry or whinge when it's gone up s**t creek...
Try and get yourself a phase 1 head and cover if you can. They've got bigger exhaust ports as standard so should help the engine breath a bit better. Look in the for sale section mate or on ebay. They regularly come up.
It depends on how bad the scoring is, but in terms of it being a race engine I'd say yes. You can always get the cam cover/head line bored, but that's gonna cost some serious wedge. Plus you've got to find a machine shop that can do it.
Failing that you need to polish the cam journals to...
Apologies, the cup is 20mm wider overall so that would only be 5mm on the hubs and 5mm in the difference in the offset with the turinis! Not 10mm like I put in the above post!!
The cup is 20mm wider per side than a normal 172 at the front. That was 10mm on the hubs and 10mm on the turinis. 10mm on the hubs is next to nothing though so I'd doubt it would stand out a massive amount. I can't personally see that the castor alone would require the longer shaft either. I've...