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It goes well doesn't it! Left that mini for dead!

That's on road tyres as well btw. I had zero clear laps last year when I was there and nearly had a coming together with the barrier due to oil/coolant dropped by a m3. There's a video on YouTube somewhere that was uploaded by zee germans. The reason they weren't feeling the ring stag do is...

I tried to get over to the ring as part of my stag do but it's not gonna happen! The others aren't so keen of me doing one and leaving them at the f1 in spa so I can go and get a few laps in! Lol! Can't fault my wife to be though mate. She has been there with me for the last 2yrs and she loves...

I was at the ring the same time and can vaguely remember seeing your car mate! I unfortunately won't be returning to the ring this year due to getting married!! Not sure how I'll cope without my fix either. Been going there for the last 7yrs twice a year.

I'd get the bores measured and see how worn they are first. If they aren't worn I'd hone the bores to de glaze them and get the rings gapped to suit mate. This is what I'm doing with my high comp build. If it's worn your going to have to get the block rebored.

Normal mate.

If you look at the internal design of the rs2 plenum/intake runners and compare it to the original 1*2, you will see the area you need to improve. A increase in volume will give some improvement but the main area to concentrate on is reducing the turbulence from the air entering the runners...

Easier ways than that to get results imo. You'd be better off cutting and re-welding, then smooth back the welds if you want to keep oem look (which is what I prefer as well personally.)

There is no reason to change the position of the throttle body at all anyway.

It's not a pressurised system, just a air pump that pumps a given amount of air through the cylinder head. Then the out going air is measured with a manometer to give you your answers. (That's a basic easy to understand description btw)

You can improve it like I said, but altering the position of the throttle body won't see any real significant improvement. Unfortunately the real restriction is the original design. And that's nothing to do with the length of the runners either just in case that's what other people are thinking!

Forgot to say as well, you need to cut the webbing out from under the bonnet with the 197 inlet fitted!! It touches otherwise.

The real issues with the original plenum are the internal design btw. Improvements can be made to the original if you know the areas to work on. If you angle the throttle body the way you've got it, are you sure that it will clear the bulkhead? The 197 inlets are shorter in length but greater...

It's all about the shape and position of the ports, but yes you could use a adapter plate of some sort. I'm not convinced the gains would warrant all the effort either.

To fit the 197 inlet on to a 182 head you need to drill and tap the cylinder head. It's only 2 bolt holes that need tapping though so not a real issue if you have the necessary tools. The real issue comes with the ports. Let's just say they're different to say the least. Very different. The...

You sir, are a legend!! Excellent driving on those videos! How far do you live from the ring?

Speedline challenge rims ^^^^ for sure.

Re: James/BigAsh 182 Race Car by TDF... It doesn't get much better than this! *Pic He Bright wheels ftw! Lol! Sorry to hear about your luck though mate. Hope all gets sorted soon.

I thought it was warm in oz!! The weather in them pictures looks shite - just like the uk weather! Lol! Nice car though mate. I have a proper soft spot for 197's but the missus won't have any of it! Maybe one day!!

No mention of induction setup included in the sale and ecu available at request, so if that's the case for what work has been carried out I'd say 7.5k is about right tbh.

That's a 197/200 engine.

The benefit would be that it makes the engine future proof in my eyes. Competitors will undoubtedly improve their engines so why not give yourself the ability to do the same thing? This is all just my opinion though. I try to start with the best possible bits to save time and money further...

The benefit would be that it makes the engine future proof in my eyes. Competitors will undoubtedly improve their engines so why not give yourself the ability to do the same thing? This is all just my opinion though. I try to start with the best possible bits to save time and money further...

F4r 830 or 832 head off a 197/200 is a better head to start with. You will still have to rocker issue to overcome, but nevertheless it's a better design in terms of looking for power. It's not a 100% straight swap but you only have to do a very minor amount of work to get it to run with a 1*2...

Do you have to run a 1*2 There's better alternatives to the 172/182 cylinder head available if you can tbh, especially if your going to the lengths of a fully built engine.

Nope! Mine are held with sikaflex in the channels on the front. If they ever need removing I'll have to cut the doors off them though!! Lol

Mine came off a 1.6 focus zetec. Mk1 shape if that's of any use.

I've just checked mine and the Renault leads fit spot on. The part number off my coil pack is: 988F-12029-AB 9309BA. Worse case scenario is either find one with that part number (you can just make out the number on jays as well in the picture) or just buy some new boots and connectors and crimp...

Did I say I believed what the trip computer was saying? That's why I stopped for fuel. I regularly see 47mpg on the trip computer on motorways though. According to the dash anyway.

Don't use proper windscreen sealant/bonding agent to bond the rear and rear qtr windows in as it doesn't hold them properly. Sikaflex is your best friend for bonding them in.