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Borrowed from DrRollo's thread. The plate on the left and right of the image is where the hoses are secured but I can't seem to find any nut or thread to remove them.

Any ideas Tom as they seem to be crimped around the ends to hold them in place.

I've managed to undo the rear brake hoses but I now can't see any way of removing them and refitting the Goodridge items. Do they simply cable tie to the originals or are the originals removeable?

17'' Nervasport's, they look sweet as on a 172: http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/8540/fcs041vq2.jpg

Blow my whistle b**ch. Surely they won't do performance any favours as they are restricting the exit of exhaust gasses.

I've just come to do mine and was as confuesed as Rollo. However, if you look the the left and right of the picture where the plates are, on the outer sides where the copper pipe enters the bracket there are nuts to release the hoses. How easy they will be to do undo is a different question.

Cheers guys, that's reassured me. I just don't want to have to tackle the job again in a month.

What did you run?

I agree to extent with the above however 99% of the mods I do to my car are reversible and will be sold on again come sale time when the car is put back to standard.

I have my phase 1 172 air box and have my panel filter on the way, i'm collecting my CAF tomorrow so should be ready to go. My question is how should I set up the new air feeds? As the phase 1 box has two inlets running parallel, I had thought of running a length of CAF from what would be...

It's probably more to do with the fact that you have a Viper ;)

Sorry fellas, I think RB is very similar to those mobility cars you used to see knocking about 10-15 years ago.

I've just been thinking about how much I'm spending on the car at the moment and how I just buy things as and when they come up. I should budget but I don't. How does everyone else do it?

54mm or 58mm IIRC dependant on model.

As I left her about an hour ago.

Neh worries, I'm more of a performance man myself but couldn't think of a £40'er. An oil and filter change maybe or combined with a new set of plugs if it's 40k+.

Removal of acoustic valve (free),1m of induction hose to replace acoustic valve (£15), Silicone inlet elbow (£25), change gear box oil (£20) and maybe a Megane footrest to polish of the £100.

Piece of pi$$ mate. IIRC it's only 4-6 torx head bolts.

I would say you should expect less than others.

I think Laingo was unlucky as he had the RS manifold fitted which is widely regarded, even by Ben as being somewhat of a benchmark.

I'll second all that is said there. Twin 3'' is the only way to go.

It does Fred. As I say, it's not mega loose and doesn't move from side to side but my dad was spinning it with the ratchet even though the nut was tight on my side. The collar stays put from what I can tell.

I've managed to refit two new manifold to cat' bolts onto my 172. I have only tightened one so far but it still spins in its collar, not freely but it still moves with a socket. Does this sound right as I had an issue like this last time around.

Pictures?

No problem, I think I have it figured out now. Thanks again. Ben

Fred, you're a ledge'. I've spent all morning scouring the internet for the answer. So something like this:

Don't forget you will need to make provision for being able to refit the cat' come MOT time.

I don't think they open until about 1800 rpm. I'd remove it anyway as they do nothing other than supress noise and restrict flow.

Phase 2 should be one single cat', the earlier phase 1's had a dual barrel cat' setup which was a little shorter. Can't see why he would need to know though.

Sorry to keep bumping this guys but i'm desperate to get it right this time and will be tackling it today.