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I'd still say it has to be a leak from the exhaust somewhere. Has it been off and the joints plastered in paste? I had a Metro GTI which did this once. It turned out that the silencers in the exhaust were filled with wadding which was being blown if you like when accelerating. It ended up...

Did you buy it Alex?

It certainly would.

Evening bump for Fred.

The old one isn't that difficult to remove, although I did remove mine when the stick was off of the car.

Not mine but I know they are sought after: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GENUINE-RENAULT-CLIO-SPORT-172-V6-GEAR-KNOB-NEW_W0QQitemZ160094806669QQihZ006QQcategoryZ10410QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Prevention is better than a cure. I would say that the tailgate is mis-aligned for whatever reason and the seals are lettin water in. It may be possible to adjust the catch on the bootlid so it sits tighter. Alternatively, tweak the seal all of the way round and test with a hose pipe.

Here you go Fred: And my guess: The flash blocked out a washer but I drew it back in. Also, which bits go between the flanges and which are either side?

You may get a slight increase in sound and performance with a performance filter and some uprated feeds. I am expecting bigger things from the phase 1 setup I mentioned earlier as the surface area of the phase 1 panel is 2.8x larger than that of a phase 2/182.

Saturday bump, only 1 day to go.

What have you tried? I have found Yoko' A539's to be the best so far.

You can build your own Maxogen for less than £100. Buy yourself a phase 1 172 airbox, I picked mine up for £7 delivered, there's one on Fleabay at the moment, an ITG panel filter which is around £35, 2m of 70mm induction hose for around £20 and a 70mm silicine inlet elbow for around £20 again...

Bump

Ah, that's what I was hoping would be my saviour. Freddy four fingers or Edde maybe?

Wednesday night bump.

I have just picked up my manifold seal kit but want to ensure I fit everything correctly as I am guessing I got it wrong last time. I have a Bolt, a large collar which fits around the bolt head I think, a 2nd flatter collar a silver washer which looks as if it would fit inside the flatter...

I knew it was Cas'. The 197 has the correct number plate BYG, TOO BYG.

I stuck a wanted ad up mate and Adam Hodgkinson came up with the goods. I think whiteley and Martin89 are breaking a couple of 1.2's, any gear stick unit will fit so they should have one available. As for fitment, that is one of next weeks jobs but I understand you have to remove the cat', good...

Too many losers?

In the twisties as well Ryan?

But electronic components can be temperamental, they can be fine one day and terrible the next without warning.

In a word, yes.

The phase 1 interior is Plymobil blue, it's foul. The phase 2 interior isn't much better but it's a palletable colour at least and the dash design could pass as a recent design. The gear knob is a different matter however.

Not too sure on that. Do you mean mandrel bent which may reduce the overall bore of the bend in question.

^^^Probably just as effective as the inlet tract length won't be that different. Isn't carbon fibre one of the least conductive materials available hence, no requirement for a extra heat shield. I would sell the HP personally and spend the cash on locating the Viper.

I'd take an 18 stone Graham Norton type chap to 'deal with' the garage owner.

The coil pack distributes the 'sparks' to each cylinder. It could be that it is under sparking a cyliner causing a misfire. It definately sounds like an electronic issue rather than mechanical.

Basically, the 'timing' of the top and bottom pulleys has to match so that the pistons and valves are opening and closing at the correct time and in the correct sequence. The further out they are or the more teeth missed, the more chance there is of valves meeting pistons and both making a big...

Sounds like the cam belt might by out be a tooth or two.

G.A.F. (Gay As f**k)