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don't know where you're all reading £7k for the mods! he says £7k for mods and servicing, including a £1.1k service. he's probably including garage labour in that, if you think he's had cams fitted and recent cambelt, assuming not done together that's a hefty sum right there.
i fitted a new pas pump the other day and it whines like a supercharger, sound usually disappears once warmed up but you can still hear it sometimes. it's not loud like when you hold full lock.
edit: only whines when turning
bueller? really need to know this. i popped out both wires to clean up the gunky plastic plug and like a muppet didn't take note of which way round they go. someone must have a clio and a camera!
get out! ;) it's as bad as parking in disabled bays, although seemingly less enforceable. however cautious and aware i am, i don't like dragging my three kids through a car park because some lazy arse can't be bothered to park over the other side of the car park to protect their pride & joy...
i don't agree with parking over two bays, or parking in disabled bays, or blocking the path, etc, etc; it's inconsiderate to everyone else. not as inconsiderate as damaging someones property mind you, but it's annoying and i'd go out of my way to p*ss that driver off. we always use to get cars...
genuine tie rod = £49! i'll try another pattern part = £16 :)
the unstableness seems to have died out over the last couple of days, maybe since the tracking.
it's still got the problem of always tracking to the right, even through tracking is spot on.
going to swap my wheels over tomorrow and...
funny u say that. i got a new tie rod from gsf a couple of days ago. haven't fitted it yet but i can move it around by hand without too much effort, and the other tie rods i've had have all been a fairly solid affair. it's going back today and i'm going to get a genuine one i think.
you reminded me i've got a couple of clio 1.2,1.4,etc tie rods in the shed that are new. on those i can't even move the ball joint.
i've been playing with the new one again and it feels uneven when you move the joint around, the level of resistance changes as you move it around.
it's special...
i picked up a new tie rod yesterday and i found its fairly easy to move the ball joint around in my hand. past experience with tie rods tells me its nearly impossible to move a new ball joint by hand. nothing to worry about or looking at premature failure if i fit it?
that's starting to bother me now. when i changed my rack out for a dci/1.2 rack, it felt horrible, as hard to steer as broken power steering so i put the original rack back in. seen a few people now saying they've had no problems with the manual rack conversion. am i just weak? :(
er, really?
i bought a new genuine renault part off ebay a month ago, i've just been out to fit a reconditioned pump and noticed that there's a bit of fluid inside where the plug goes.
and the seller said:
Hiya Kristian, I have spoken to people alot more in the know than I am and they say...
when refitting removing and refitting cam cover, you should follow a sequence for tightening/loosening the bolts, usually start at the central most bolt and work outwards. and only do the bolts upto the specified torque. very easy to snap the corner off the cam cover if you do it too tight. done...
just came across this on ebay, you can see how orange/silver/black looks. i like the orange on silver theme
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Renault-Clio-172-Cup-/280655799601?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item415863a531#ht_1451wt_1139
nobody ridicule the power gains....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Renault-Clio-172-Cup-/280655799601?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item415863a531#ht_1451wt_1139
210-220bhp from those mods...? :clown:
must
resist
temptation
to
send
message
i've just read that the rear subframe bolts should be tightened to 105nm and mine are currently 62nm. not sure HOW much different that would make as the rear subframe mounts push up into a dome shaped mould so doesn't look like they can move about, but, er, certainly something to rectify :o