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I bet it is a big old bit of kit.
Guess you just need to pick where you shoot from. Camp and Quarry apex with was to short at 200mm which is why I needed to add the 300mm prime.
The lubriction is to allow the clay to glide safely across the surface without scratching.
Clay removes the bonded on muck that washing and polishing alone wont.
Problem will P21s as a standalone product is it will look great, but durability is only a few weeks. Fine if you want to reapply it every few washes.
You could just prep the paint with any polish and paint cleaner and then use some wax- SRP plus P21s would look great just not offer than much...
Stick with the Autoglym.
The AG SRP and EGP will look better and outlast durabilty the Megs Stage 3 stuff and be quicker to do. Not a fan of the Megs bits you mention.
Out of the Megs consumer range sold in Halfords I only use the Quick Clay. and NXT Metal polish
Meguiars one is fine. Most are all made by the same company anyway. As long as you dont get the aggressive bodyshop ones you should be fine.
I tend to buy the ones without the included QD sprays as I use soap and water.
Even the entry level Swisswax Onyx is one of the best waxes I have ever used, hence why I have advised a few on here to pay for a pot of it over say P21s. Yes it is double the price but it IMO it is worth it.
I have tried to get a pot of one of each of the levels to be able to offer people...
Temps should be ideal now ( Spring time anway ), hot days will be as bad as cold days. To cold the clay is hard and causes marring, two hot it streaks everwhere and becomes unworkable.
Time wise the claying stage should take an hour or so.
Works well, as long as you plan to re-wax or seal after use well worth using.
Claying the whole car is more effective and just using the AG in local areas is my normal routine.
As above but use Jeffs Acyrlic Jett Trigger Sealant rather then the EGP for a wetter look and easier results.
Most of the looks comes from the polishing stage, so for a flawless finsish and the highest gloss something more than AG SRP is will be needed.
Clay
Menzerna Power Gloss S 34 A
Menzerna Intensive Polish PO91L
Menzerna Final Finish PO85RD
SRP
EGP
Collinite No. 476s
Thats the order. Try the IP first only step up to the PG if you have to.
I would use 2 or 3 coats of EGP and then top with the 476. Ditch the Butter wax it is a bit shite IMO.
As long as the paint is not broken - high chance it won't need filler and paint.
Ask around locally who has a good reputation for paintless dent removal 50- 70 quid ish I would expect. The name of the comapny doing it is largely irrelevant, as said it is only ever as good as the individual...
I would go for the Final Finishes rather than the Final Polish II.
Chances are you will need the Intensive Polish as well so you may as well get it, even for just spot repairs. Buy all three from the outset is my advice.
I use the Final Finish (PO106FF) as a one step on mild marring.
Or the...
Depends how dirty it gets on the way.
FCS last year I got away with a Spray and Wipe type.
Trax and RWS the car neded a full wash ( Be it with Optimum Rinseless Car wash to save rinsing)
I would not want to be polishing at a show.
Maybe a coat of wax, dress the trim etc.
That is a new one on me aswell.
Main reason circular motions where frowned up on was the fact if you where using abrassives not worked properly and broken down they would install swirls you would see badly.
There is a purpose of the motion you describe is so that if you create any marks etc they will not be as visable due to the way the light catches, the shine thing is a new one on me and sounds a bit of a marketing gimmick IMO.