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If i had the choice i wouldn't put anything remotely 'powerful' in...would have to be a diesel or some kind of bombproof petrol engine...something that will run forever despite having zero maintenance. You'll laugh but i find me 1.2 8V engine better than any previous renault lump i've had...

You get very little off cams alone....they need headwork on the 1.8 to give anything noticable. The idle is not down to the cams.

It'll only be the steering column if the car has PAS...manual columns don't have the same bush that wears out on PAS columns giving the vague steering.

Water can blow back over the rocker cover from the raincatcher...you can see it'll flow in that direction if you open the bonnet after washing - water goes directly towards the headlight. Of course it'll depend how much water is sitting in the raincatcher and how much air travels through the...

Interesting although i doubt you'll notice any difference on a road car, especially since so many other things (beyond the exhaust) will alter the conditions.

You need the parts from mk1 clio that uses the same engine as yours (i.e if you have a 1.4RT get PAS off a 1.4 etc). Cheapest place to get will be from a scrappy or alternatively buy a kanckered clio for 50 off ebay and swap the parts over. You'll need PAS steering column, PAS rack, PAS...

Yeah they came with them as standard on some models and its easy enough to retro fit.

Removing the cat will help but its more complicated than that...depends on pipe bore, length of pipe etc

It is a GTT exhaust...you can tell by the downpipe connection and the fact that its so similar to a mk1 clio...stick it on RTOC or ebay

That looks like a R5 GTT exhaust to me.

http://www.catcams.be/index.htm 1.6 16v is K4M engine type.

Backpressure is mainly controlled by the manifold...anything backwards of that won't really do much. You'll find the decat will give a bit more power top end but perhaps reduce torque at low revs...you won't have lost power, you'll just have altered where it kicks in.

Too true. Done this in both of my accidents....

Ah ok, i think i'll give it a go. The Fatty - how long did it take you to do roughly?

It is smaller on mine...compared to a 16v battery the std 1.2 item doesn't even fill the battery tray....thats a new std item from halfords. You do need a battery to run the engine.

Yeah but doesn't it go by age and milage - whichever coems first? Mines low mileage but is 7/8 years old :-s

I bought a 1.2 last febuary after selling my 16v and its got no service history with it. Its a 98 model on 45k and i'm thinking a timing belt change might be due. How much is the going rate for this and do reno do a kit?

Noise sounds like a sticking caliper as dave says. Starting problem i've had similar...thought it was the starter and/or timing sensor but wasn't - it was just the battery was shagged and wouldn't hold a charge. This is most likely on yours IMO as the 1.2 batteries are smaller than other...

Err....but not telling them?

Not at plus 0.5bar.

I disagree. 0.5bar or thereabout isn't going to damage anything, it will however make an improvement...as i said the map on the cars is mega lean top end so you need it richer. I do agree a remap would help control things better but if the cars physical components cant supply the fuel...

What PBVs?? No not higher engine wear, just pump wear if your pump is inadequate; obviously if you whack it up to 3.5 bar your standard 3bar pump will have to run flat out and won't last long.

You can also use a williams/16v std fuel regulator in place of your current item to raise the fuel rail pressure to 3.5bar...i would also recommend getting a 16v pump as the std 1.2 item is only rated to 3 bar and will go item meltdown.

It does fit...you're thinking of the 1.2 16v engines.

Converting to 16v is fair enough but getting management is the problem...you'll likely need to go custom as the chances of getting (or getting it cheaply enough) the mk2 loom/ecu/immobiliser to work in a mk1 are slim. Mk1's are a fair bit lighter than mk2...esp the baseline models.

ajkketley is a SPI 1.2 8V so a different engine...you can do more to his engine for less money as it shares a lot of parts (and mods) with a 1.4RT engine.

Yes, they will make your car overfuel but this is precisely what maxx needs and his ECU is mapped too lean. Fair enough he could fork out for a remap but the PBV option is a cheaper route.

No that means the seller has just cranked the pressure up to the max which is dangerous, not mention will waste a lot of fuel. The setting of the PBV has to optimised for the car on a rolling road or such like.

Aye Chris n Nic got 80 of theirs with just a IK and PBV...bit dubious of that tho. 80bhp with cam, headwork and altered fueling is defo obtainablely IMO.

Not really worth it as the std item is *usually* more than up to the job. On your car however, your ECU is mapped incredibly lean esp top end so anything you can do to get more fuel in is a good thing. My plan with the cam and head was to have a PBV and uprate the fuel pump to 16v spec as the...