Search results

Devil if you can find one or magnex.

No, it just makes it a cat with a sort arse! In any case, there is laws against that sort of thing matey... :0

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZu33db (Mine)

You have a reply! :)

17's on a mk1 1.2! Are you mad!! It will have zero performance and handle shite...so much so i think you'll begin to hate driving it. I've had 16s on mine and they were bad, 15's were ok but still not great so i've stuck some 14" rsi wheels on with 185/55 tyres...wider footprint than std...

Thanks. Its being dropped on 55mm springs at the weeekend which will put it a fair bit out...its alraedy down on 35mm springs and the camber is noticeable...

1.1. Night and Day?

Hi, i'm away to lower my car again this weekend and a bit bothered about tyre wear due to the amount of camber its running atm and and by how much it will increase. This being the case, i'm considering whacking on some of these camber bolts but can someone explain how they work? Also, the...

I had mine about 2 years. Break down wise, i think i only got let down totally about 5 times...once for gearbox, once for starter and 3 times for alterernator. Would have broken down LOTS more if it weren't for the thousands i pumped into it...and i means £k's :( Great cars WHEN THEY'RE...

I had the centre section rebent upwards to combat mine. I beleive the williams runs an extra mount near that area so you could do something similar...

Not really awkward...they don't have to be exactly on the jacking point, you can put them further forward. At the end of the day you've got a heavy engine at the front so its not going to rock of the stands or anything!

Depends what you mean by axle! For saftey's sake, i'd just put the axle stands at the rear of the sills...its a jacking point anyway so is designed for it.

IIRC you mean the 'arrows' marked on the torsion bar and enclosing axle? No it doesn't matter...i think they're just there to indicate standard settings or something...has no impact on lowering.

When putting the torsion bar in, just hammer it back in as far as it'll go...don't bother with grease. You won't need to remove arch liners if going down -55mm...theyjust unscrew/unbolt tho.

Cheers for that. It was the van version in particular i was interested in as i'm thinking of buying one this year and would like to sort the woolly suspension.

What suspension does a kangoo have...i.e. does it shared components with any clio? Could it be lowered with say, clio shocks/springs?

Righto folks, i've got my mk1 1.2 8v lowered on -35mm 16v springs but it isn't quite as low as 16v would be (obviously becuase my car is a good bit lighter). I want to go lower so am getting 16v -50mm springs...my question is will these lower the car any more and by roughly how much given...

lol!

As above, can someone also PM me the link? Was watching it last night but didn't bookmark! :-(

Yeah i suppose but most garages will loosen them off for free...thats more pennies in your pocket!

Spotted today, 8:45-ish at the small roundabout before the Aberdeen Exhibition Centre. That red 1.2 that passed behind you narrowly missing clipping your bumper was me! lol

Take it to a garage and get them to airgun the strut top nut off then put it back on finger tight...quicker and will save any hassle.

Less gay with an F7R too!

There was pics of a foreign white 16v with it done and Nick Hill is doing one too. Stick with the williams/megane lump tho...less hassle, cheaper...

It'll depend if whoever fitted the chip had the foresight to solder an EPROM socketonto the board - if they have then just unplug it and put the old one in. If they haven't (and have just soldered the new chip on) then you'll need to unsolder the new and resolder the old one on...a lot of...

1) No, it won't fit on. The only other cars a 16v TB will fit is a williams or an R19 16v and possibly a spyder. 2) Beneficial? Only if the 16v TB is bigger than the original but not worth the work TBH.

Finally got the 1.2 into a reasonable state now... Things i've changed for the better; - 16v front shocks with -35m springs, - 16v front hubs, - 16v steering wheel, - 16v phase 2 seats/doorcards, - 16v carpet, - 16v phase 1 wheels, - K&N IK, - colour coded phase 3...

Well i took apart the RT clocks yesterday and it looks like it's gonna be too much effort to go that route. I'll keep an eye out for the RN clocks you suggested but failing that, i'll chalk this one down to a waste of time...

Cheers for that m8 but unfortunately i don't have a coil like that :-( My ones like this (block thing with ig lead in pic);

Bit of a mission i think!