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Happens to all mk1's sooner or later...they rattle then fall off.
No problem for MOT and it's not gonna have any impact on rust and the the cat (^^???)
Theres nothing better that you can use...172/182's are JC5 as well. Short of getting a sadev either rebuild again or change gears slower!
Why are you changing so quick anyway?
non assisted power steering?? Its either power steering or not m8.
As i said, you can fit any PAS rack to any clio or any manual rack to any clio, provided you have the corresponding PAS/Non-PAS steering column.
Disc are the same are the 19 16v, in fact the whole hub/hub carrier/brake setup is the same.
Steering rack wise, i don't know if they're 100% identical but they'll defo fit...any mk1 clio rack will fit any other mk1 clio.
Waste of money fixing a 1.2/1.4 IMO...as Lunner said you get them dirt cheap (sub 50quid) and they can sit for a VERY long time without needing overhaul work.
You don't need that much...engine/gearbox/loom/ecu/shafts/top engine mount/radiator/fan/throttle cable/ignition coil/all engine hoses - it'll plug and play beyond that.
You'll get a valver lump for under 100 thesedays and the other stuff can be picked up here and there...under 300for the lot...
I don't think so Daz TBH and Lunner agrees;
as i said, subframe is the same basic shape as are the wishbones and hub carriers...and shafts...if they're the same then the track must of course be the same.
I reckon its the wings and wider wheels that are confusing things...done it myself...
No it doesn't...valver is the same track width as the lesser clios.
The fact the subframe, wishbones and hub carriers are the same basic shape confirms this.
As above.
Strut is the shock absorber...its what your spring sits inside!
Fitting 16v shocks and standard 16v springs will lower the RT 20mm
Fitting 16v shocks and -35mm 16v springs will lower the RT about 40mm
You need to check if the strut bolt hole spacing (distance from the centre of one hole to the other) on your car is 54mm. If it is then you can bolt 16v shocks on, if not then you'll need hub carriers with this spacing.
I've done it...no other parts required and theres no difference in track...
Yeah balljoints need doing then.
Wouldn't bother with the bushes or top mounts unless the strut is moving/can be moved about. 80k isn't that much, especially if they haven't been disturbed.
It looks like the bump strips have been colour coded from those pic...probably the whole shell was flashed over hence the stickers missing. Door cards are easy damaged so thats probably a cheap repalcement...and the rear one looks spot on anyway.
I know i 205 nut as well plus i've had a valver.
I think the renault is better car...most poeple seem to rave about the 205's handling but TBH the propect of going backwards into a wall if you get it wrong doesn't do it for me...neither does the tacky dash (its worse than a clio's FFS!)...
Depending on the spec of the 'hybrid' it'll be everything a williams is and possibly more.
The only major differences is the williams will cost more and has more status to joe public. There is the argument for not modifying a williams' exterior but TBH, if you've got its your car - i wouldn't...