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You'll need to be careful - yours is a 1.2 MPI which runs a different ignition system to all other mk1 clios...i.e a DIS module. Becuase of this you'll find that the wiring behind the dash doesn't really do anything meaningfull hence why there are no 1.2 mk1 MPI's with rev counters...the loom...

Torsion bar does have an effect on ride hieght...the air suspension is only gonna alter the ride hieght within the limits of how far the torsion bar can twist.

LOL Honestly....scrappy...will be about 5 quid for ALL the seals and fit them yourself.

I happen to think the ph1 172 looks the best out of the lot as i think the phase2/182's will age a lot over the next few years...too many sharp lines IMO. For freeing up 3k and still having esentially the same car i'd do it.

don't know - my knowledge of mk2's ends with the above! Err....try Fred/yozza etc...

They won't

Yes and no. Yes if you've got a ph2 172 as they're -45 offset or thereabouts so sit further in the arches....fitting williams wheels will push it out to -35 so near enough the same as the wider cup track. No if its a ph1 172 as their offset is -35 the same as a williams.

Scrapyard - all mk1's are the same.

I forget exactly now its defo only one sensor on the front and defo pressure at the rear...beyond that... :-s

About 80quid for the oil pressure sensorthat sits on the rear of the block...i think this is a combined unit that runs the oil level gauage too. Oil temp sensor on the front of the block...not sure how much TBH.

You ain't going to get a 182 engine into a mark 1 with any amount of easiness! You also can't bore the 1.4 out as you'll hit the waterjackets. As some of you know, the 1.6 8v K7M BE is basically the same as the 1.4 RT BE but the increase in capacity comes froma change in stroke, not bore so...

Half an hour will do it...easy job. Disconnect battery and leave for 15-30mins, undo bolts on the reverse of wheel, slide the centre section out. There will be a ribbon like wire attached to the rear of the canister...unclip this and remvoe the entire airbag assembly. Beyond that you can...

same engine, same airbox so yeah.

Its different to the clio item but will fit...only 3 of the 4 mounting bolts/holes will mate up with the clio IIRC.

Thats a lowered a fair bit with 17s...id' certainly expect rubbing. As i said, the drivers side always sits lower on these cars...i guess the torsion bar takes more of a beating with the extra weight maybe. You could try shifting the driver side torsion bar up a sline to see if that helps?

Don't think the gearbox will fit fella...mounts are different IIRC. If it does then yeah, you could use a megane one. Fairly sure a williams/16v will fit that engine and gearbox combo too as long as you have the matching flywheel.

Yes.

Oh, are you still able to get that flywheel this weekend?

Megane is different, you'll need a clio one.

Yeah they just clip off.

Unlucky dude. I'm afraid i've had the one off the chap at stonehaven too.

How far have you lowered it? The drivers side always sits lower anyway.

Double sided bodywork tape will be more than enough...IIRC it was good enough to keep a 16v spoiler attached on weights old 16v (bannana/yellow 2ltr 16v)...go get some!

Latest megane uses an F4R, fairly certain an avantime does and possibly the new shape laguna...i think these are all turboed versions though so don't know if thats much help?

What the bolt you're screwing into the torsion bar? It could happen i suppose but i doubt it...would take a lot of force...more likely you just couldn't turn the nut anymore or would knacker the thread around the bolt before that happened.

The worst that could happen is that they're seized and you cant get them out. You're not going to ruin your car in any way

You can build the tool out of a bolt/nut and socket (i forget the exact sizes you'll need...Lunner will know amongst others though)...max cost of 2/3quid from b&q.

You can never be 'in the right gear' all the time to get the most power though; peak power is only a certain (one) point in the rev range...the very nature of changing gear means this will fluctuate dropping you over/under it! What you call being in the right gear is basically being within a...

Shouldn't need to take the skirts off to do the torsion bar - you just need enough clearance to pull them out about 2 inches or so and a bit more to get the tool in.

Think about it...you're going to have to rev the F4 more to get moving - the F7 will get there just that bit quicker. Liken it to why your 172's etc can stick with a CTR...they've got less bhp but the CTR is relatively gutless below a certain rpm...it evens out in reality...