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And any F-series engine...which they are anyway

As well as what you've listed you'll need; - the top (16v) engine mount, - 16v radiator and fan, - 16v coilpack, - 16v driveshafts, - 16v fuel pump, - 16v accelerator cable If your 1.2 has no PAS you'll also need bracketry to remove the PAS pump off the 16v engine or else you'll need...

They're good and you get power gains but most people seem to agree the std valver manifold is pretty damn good anyway...TBH i'd spend the 300-odd quid it costs for one on something else.

Yes, williams or megane F7R BE bolted to your valver head with 2ltr ECU will run fine...thats the normal route and cheapest way of doing things.Don't both with the williams manifold...valver item is vastly superior.

You don't have any injectors - 1.4 RT is carb/SPI

Pedal box?

Yes you can buy F7R's for 400quid (and far less) but thats a megane engine....to get them to work with clio management will require machining of the head to run the clio dizzy and a few other things. Bit of a pain in the arse considering if you just bolt the BE to a valver head and chip it...

Yes but you'll need to get the matching starter and ECU as the 1.8 items won't go on/work with it too well.

As long as the bar isn't seized its easy...easier than the front IMO as theres less to muck about with. I've had mine out 3/4 times now to readjust it myself...follow the guide and its easy.

Listen to ben r. Tuning the 1.8 is fooking expensive and is all or nothing - to get any sort of noticeable (usable) power gain you need to do everything at the same time...that means gasflowed head/cams/chip. Even then, it'll be no-where near as fast as a standard 2ltr! Pay the money and...

You can get a stainless straight through centre section for about 80quid from motorsport world. Some mk1 phase 1/2 1.2's had a straight through centre section which you could likely buy for about 30/40 from quick fit or the like.

Odd! I've bought shitloads from them over the years and they've always bent over backwards to help me. :-s

8 pound is quite reasonable for an OE part. Theres always matbrown/infinicar/LTR etc for s/h parts?

Yes.

Yes, there is suppossed to be a ribbed bendy pipe that goes from the outlet to a pipe coming in infront of the passengers side wheel.

PMSL! Seems the only alternative TBH...i'm reluctant to get customs ones made up or buy coilovers as its only a 700quid 1.2...got better things to spend my money on...

Bit of background on this for those who wonder why i'm thinking of it; I've lowered my mk1 1.2 on 16v -35mm shocks and springs but its not enough. Fitting -55mm 16v springs would be the logical course but its occurred to me that as they're meant for a much heavier car and will have an...

PBV...maybe a max of 5bhp improvement and some flat spots ironed out. All depends on the state of the engine to begin with...likely you'll get more of an improvment on a shagged engine TBH.

Obviously sticking a grinder or torch on it would heat the coil up too much sending the spring rates out to lunch and possibly weakening the structure so thats out. However, if i just hacksawed it quarter of a coil at a time it should be ok as i can't see that making them potentally dangerous?

Not accepting that answer - there must be a marginally better way.

Obviously this isn't to be recommended but is there a safe (or moderately safe) way to cut some length off a coil spring?

Backpressure is mainly defined by the manifold...you could weld a wheelie bin on the back of the car and performance won't be degraded. Just get a system with no silencers other than the rear box.

All clios/meganes/r5s do that...its a s**t design for routing the exhaust over the axle and is basically just good luck and lots of fiddling that cure it. Case of putting up with it TBH...

This is mine down 35mm using 16v shocks and 16v lowering springs and sitting on 14s (so the equivalent of -55 no 16v springs); Shitloads of space less in the arches and TBH isn't low enough for my liking so i'm on the hunt for some -55 valver springs atm...going to wait until i get my...

You get what you pay for them....they're a budget brand so don't expect fantastic quality. That aside they are ok, i've had one on megane and was happy enough...not reallu much to go wrong if its going on a 1.2...

^^but has gay looking wheels ;-p

Yeah, measure middle of one bolt to the middle of the other to get the spacing an no, theres no other differences in the shocks apart from that. Other parts wise, you MAY need new top mounts but normally you can get away without them. Try http://www.gsfcarparts.com for bits

Last i heard he was doing it for himself. I'd expect if you wanted him to do it he would though.

Nick Hill is doing a 172 valver for himself

Ah but you didn't say anything about machining splines off! ;-p