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That was my old race car! The previous owner had stuck the rain light on the boot with screws and a bit of silicon so I found another boot release badge and drilled it out. Just a bit tidier but I would definitely mount it inside at the top of the rear window which is where I now have the rain...
Sounds like you've just been unlucky with the timing. If you're running standard or standard-ish power, the standard clutch should be fine, but you probably know that anyway.
On a standard engine a decent Valeo or Sachs clutch will be fine. If you want more bite a Helix paddle clutch will fit the bill, but they’re expensive and I think overkill for your needs.
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Wheels make a massive difference obviously, not only on kerb weight but such a reduction in the rotating mass completely transformed the car.
Also worth doing a bit of research into the rollcage weights. Obviously you don't want to compromise safety but some cages are incredibly heavy and unless...
Yes, Emerald ECU, but that's not a piggyback, it's a stand alone ECU so you have total control over the map which you really need for the engine to run safely.
Weight saving is an ongoing mission. Over the past season I have managed to lose about 60kg out of the car by changing to light-weight wheels (OZ Ultralaggeras), fibreglass bonnet, Lexan rear window and lots more metal cut out of the doors, boot and inside the car. Currently it sits at 900kg...
No port matching to do really with Jenvey ITBs. All I did was mildly polish the combustion chambers. Standard size valves (although some say larger valves can help)
I run 220 on pretty much that but not that cam and no work to the head.
It’s achievable but you need a very well balanced bottom end to allow the engine to rev safely up to 8k.
I use a 433 cat cam with vvt removed.
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2 bushes in the set I ordered. Basically enough to do one rack. I can’t see there’d be any reason for someone to only require one.
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Probably cheaper just to buy a new caliper. the rears are cheap enough. I assume they are powdercoating them for you but their labour cost even for helicoiling might be comparable to the cost of a new one. ( I might be way off, but worth considering I would have thought)
Back in the workshop, these wheels will need some attention.
With the persistent man-flu I've had little chance to get back on the car but it was a simple enough task to diagnose the Ait Temp sensor issue.
Within 30 seconds I had found the problem
Both wires detatched from the plug, so new...
Birkett 2018 - Silverstone GP
Over a week ago now, but shortly after the race I came down with the manliest of man-flu that I've experienced! I'm still suffering now, so I've been a bit slow updating this.
Firstly, for anyone who hasn't been before or even knows what it is; the Birkett 6 hour...
Mine aren't tight in there. It literally just holds the lines in position, so as long as you have the retaining clip on the MC side, like you have it should be fine. What you've done is a decent solution though, so as long as the joint is tight I can't imagine anything can go wrong.
You're...
Just about ready for the Birkett now. Last weekend was just about reassembling the front end, fitting subframe back on and then installing the new discs and pads. Then just torquing everything up properly and double and triple checking every nut and bolt.
Then Monday evening it was fluids...
Ah yes I remember talking to you! I had 2 cars, the one I was selling then had the green check fading to blue. That car still
Lives although the new owner has had some bad luck this season blowing 3 engines and one gearbox!
The one with the white checks is the same one I have now, wrapped yellow...
That’s not bad. A&P did them to me for £380 inc fitting. But it’s a 45 minute drive to get there for me!
Snetterton is our first race of the season next year. So maybe meet you then. We’ll be doing a test day before that too no doubt.
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Interestingly, my FB feed is telling me that 4 years ago today my gearbox failed at Snetterton!
In other news, some service parts arrived today. The rest tomorrow hopefully.
Thanks! I try and make small improvements and renew things as and when needed. There are so many things that can go wrong and prevent you finishing a race, it's easy to see why race teams spend the money they do.
Renault did used to offer reconditioned boxes, you're right. But although...
Ha, I thought you might say that! I'm not aware of the system getting particularly hot so that Kia one would probably be fine. I guess it will mount just in front of the rad near the pump to reduce pipe runs. These systems are very prone to leaking so just be thorough when making all the...
A nice project but most will probably advise you to cap off the hydraulics and install an EPAS column.
Much less to go wrong or leak and less power sapping for the engine.
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You'll get a thorough job with Mark. I spent a few hours with him watching him strip my box down to try and learn a bit about them and then I spent 3 hours at his parts washer cleaning everything to save my self some labour costs.
Yep still on them. Best tyre I've found so far. (Although 2 have flat spots now!!)
getting 2 new ones to replace these on the Ultralaggeras and then I still have a new unused set on the TD 1.2s.
Thanks! I think you're right. After everything I've been through with this car it was very welcome. And that gearbox has lasted me 3 years so I can't complain and if it lasts me even another couple of seasons it will be worth the expense. But, you just never know with these cars!
12 days to go to the Birkett, so time to get busy.
On Saturday I collected the gearbox from Mark Fish. Not a cheap rebuild with a whole new 1st and 2nd gearset, all new syncros and selector forks, plus a new shorter 5th gear added up to a parts list in excess of £700! In addition the diff went...