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Re: E36 v2
So after a cold night in the rain removing the complete rear suspension/subframe, we were left with this large empty space..
Cleaned up the surface rust and re-sealed. Fitted the replacement rear disc shields and pressed the stubs into the trailing arms..
Bolted the...
Re: E36 v2
Everything was turned round quickly, and the result being the same as the Mk1 days for those who remember..
..and I decided whilst it was apart I'd do the same stud conversion as I did on my Clio/E30. Milled the threads out to 1/2", then pressed in extended Ford studs (M12)...
Re: E36 v2
E36s have a pretty complex setup on the rear, with various balljoints, bushes and bearings. I wanted to overhaul all of this on the previous one, but never got round to it. Tell tale signs are the rear end feeling wayward, no precision in the handling poor ride quality. Everything is...
Started out with a factory ///M Sport in solid condition after my other had a split rear subframe-chassis mounts and various other patches of rust. This one needed to be done right from the start.
First.. HSD's, E30 lower arms with PowerFlex bushes and Powerflex'd M3 Front ARB. Sourced 10x...
I've had major issues with alarm/central locking on mine, ended up disabling it for now. The loom on the bootlid (where it comes out of the chassis and round the hinge into the lid) is a common problem (was actually a recall) and 5 of the wires inside the sleeve were completely broken on mine...
My Mk1 one was from custom cages. OK to deal with, profiles on the tubes way off in some places though. Ended up sorting it all myself anyway, they were not interested once they have your money like most companies out there!
£100 for 4 wheels in any colour/finish, or £140 inc removing and refitting tyres. Based in Longton, Preston. One day turnaround if required. Business in the family
You can mark the flange nut with a punch then when the other goes on just tighten the nut until the marks line up (pikey method), the proper way is to lock both output flanges and torque wrench to a specific setting dependant on diff (hard work keeping them still as its very tight!)
Cheap one...
Seen them as low as £100 up to £350. Im assuming you know if its come straight from a 3.0 you'l need the 3.0 prop shaft too, unless you want to swap the input flange and re-set the preload properly... may as well be using an open diff otherwise. Or better still find one thats already had the...
I bought one in August 2008, used it until a few weeks ago, only swapped the hard drive and put 2GB more memory in it over the space of 5 years.
Went out and bought a new Air last week (luckily with staff discount), simply due to the fact that the other one lasted so well and the build quality...
Final Cut Express is alright for basic stuff, basically a limited version of Pro. It came included on one of the Macs I bought new... not sure if they still do it on new ones now though!
It took a while for mine to bed in properly but once settled they are very good. Takes a bit of playing with damping settings front to rear but once you find a setting you like the feedback they give is spot on.
Rear subframe mounting points needed welding on the chassis (more common on M3 but they were rusty and split on mine), and I cracked the sump doing a skid day at Oulton Park. Couldn't be bothered fixing the sump, nor welding the rear end with the subframe removed. It sat around on the drive for...
It was indeed. Other priorities came along, then went on holiday numerous times. Then I sold my E46 a while ago...
...and ended up buying an E36 for a daily :clown: nevermind.
HSDs are great, had a few sets now. Much prefer the height adjustment on the damper housing so you're not preloading the spring. I find them fine on the road too.
Its down to what each user has set in their prefs, they can choose to always load HD if available iirc. &hd=1 was the more recent one which seems to only work on some videos also. Pretty silly really!
Long story short...
We're using a decoded ECU (like I used to run on the Mk1) so there is no need for a key, UCH/MTU or immobiliser setup. All thats required is a good engine loom, a good set of sensors and a good ECU. Anyway, it stopped starting a while ago, just cranking which points at TDC...
The ELMS was stopped at 3/4 race distance I think, drivers saying there was too much standing water. It's good to see all the cars out, nothing compared to the 24H though
#53 Ferrari F458 Italia LMGTE by f0xy, on Flickr