Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Power probe onto the small wire on the starter solenoid would confirm if its the starter,
also check engine/box to chassis earths (put a jump lead from battery negative terminal to the engine lifting eye).
it just softens the layer that has gone harder due to previous heat cycles so they are back on the money, or on new tyre just softens them a few points on the durometer but as you say it soon wears off.
Cellulose thinners painted onto the tread and cling wrapped for 24 hours works just as well...
http://www.corneringforce.com/setupanalysis.html good but is this where you went???
http://www.tracktorque.co.uk they're all good
http://www.bramracing.co.uk Brad is good and takes his time to get things right
Does the gearstick move excessively under throttle on/off, this shows engine/gearbox mount issues
I would have a guess at clutch friction plate or flywheel issue though
undo the 2 18mm bolts that connect the lower ball joint housing to the lower wishbone and swing it out of the way,
put the steering in full lock so the track rod is at full extension to make it easier too.
For the haters of the front end, you need to be a certain age to appreciate it,
I'm not the biggest fan of the speedlines, I preferred pro race 15'
but overall that looks like its been done properly:up:
Yey it's running,
New Cams should always have a run in period which involves keeping the revs around 2000-3000 for 20 minutes as the loading on the lobes is much higher at idle revs and can cause premature wear of the case hardening of the metal, as you can see in the photo above I coated the...