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I think he's referring to the OP's as his inlet temp is very high. The Dyno software uses this figure to correct the results. Basically it says car x has made 180bhp @ 50 degrees IT, however the AT is 22 degrees and will adjust the figure to allow for the difference between AT & IT (basically...
Quick update. It's been back on the rollers at Dyno Tech. The only changes since my last run are a fixed boost leak and a new recirc dump valve. It made 281 bhp and just under 350lb-ft. Graph below. Not sure what went wrong but the power dropped off drmatically at about 5.1k whereas last run it...
Does this not cause the ECU to back things off a little? Maybe something to do with the lower result? Seems weord for a clutch/flywheel to bring on EML light, which sensor is it tripping?
EDIT: I've just read about this on RST website, they say it's mapped out - maybe your map isn't quite...
IT and AT are fine, 9 degrees above atmospheric temp is fine. Mine were 22 & 24. You're engine light is on though isn't it? Do you know why that is?
They do appear to have run the rollers in N/A engine mode however. The roller rate is set lower than in was on my run. I believe it should have...
Forget it, you'll be spending thousands to get an extra 25bhp out of that. Sell up and buy something more powerful.
you won't get 10bhp from an exhaust and filter, a map is going to get you 1 or 2 bhp at most (that's if anyone even maps them)
I think it's the intake temp that's caused the increased figure. The figures in the table bottom right are the correction figures and are used by the dyno to calculate the power. An increased IT would give a higher than normal result I believe. eg my Intake Temp was only 24 degrees which was 2...
Must have been an issue on his run only then. 14 cars ran yesterday, Most got exactly what you would expect, some down on power from what owners were expecting. I think this is the only one that got more than expected.
Some graphs have been posted in here...
I think to rollers were spot on to be honest, you've only got to look at everyone elses results to see that. If they were all a bit high I could see it being the rollers, but I think you have freak of an engine. Most 1*2's were getting the 170+ usual figures. My Volvo has had 3 runs there this...
Here's mine, need to figure out what caused power to drop off so dramatically at 5.2k it shouldn't hit peak power until about 5750-6000 so should have made more I think. Pleased with the peak torque though!
ThomasBrentnall - Me, and 2 mates will be along around 10ish (i've got a carpet being fitted first thing!) One of my mates needs to be away by 12ish, do you think she can be squeezed in? She'll be in a 1.0 Fiest ecoboost (remapped, hoping for 135-140 bhp).
Quick question - do you have projector headlights? if not, put that kit in the bin. If you do thwen carry on! lol
Sorry but can't help with the fitting.
It is, but if you use it every time you will get the issue you've been experiencing as you've said it's never properly shut down. To my knowledge there's no way round it other than a weekly proper reboot?
If you want fast boot, but don't want fast boot enabled you need an SSD! I've just built a middle of the road spec PC with an SSD with the os on. My boot time is currently <15 seconds from pushing the button to being on and ready!
So today I put a new pc together, spec is as follows:-
Intel i5 4570 3.2ghz
Gigabyte GA-Z87-HD mb
Corsair 8GB DDR3 2133MHz Vengeance
Kingston 120GB SSDNow V300 2.5inch SSD
Toshiba 2TB Internal Hard Drive
so I put it together, initially just with the SSD in. Installed windows 7 x64, all windows...
Smoke isn't normal at all, what colour is the smoke?
fuel consumption isn't the 200's best point. However yours does sound very low (23ish mpg by my math). Maybe related to the smoke?
you probably need a new thermostat. It should sit half way.
Just download TOR for Windows or a browser called Onion on iOS, or get a VPN service set up (that'll cost you though) you can bypass the restrictions then.
One thing I love about my Volvo is that the headlights are only held in by a retaining clip. 30 seconds and no tools is all that's required to have both headlights out. I was amazed!
Completely useless to you I know!
Buyer beware basically. I doubt you can prove the previous owner knew about the problem so very little you can do.
Has the garage actually done any diagnostics to try and pinpoint the problem or just told you 'compression is low, scrap the lump'.
Have they given any compression readings etc...