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@Brumguy34 I've fitted an Omex 600 to a bodied 182 and can say it's not a major issue , I will say buy the race loom at an additional cost that goes with the ecu for ease mainly. If you wish to retain your temp gauge on the dash , you'll need an additional sensor plumbed in to cater for this ...

Totally agree , been told it goes well , and I think it does . But as you've said if it feels fast it's a hoot .

That's why I did what I had to do to get mine running without touching the manifold itself . Resale will be plug and play if it's for a Ph2 owner . Mines running 438 cams timed up to GrpN and mapped . As I've mentioned I'd like to to a nice healthy figure on the rollers , I'll be sceptical...

I'll let you know when I have mine on the rollers . If your not to far away you can get down to the SRR day TimRS is organising in October [emoji1303]

Christ , it's got a big hole where the idle valve went [emoji15] . Looks like no resale thought went into that when they did that lol. That'll need sealing . Good luck with that . Or I spose you could just put an idle valve off a Ph1 to seal it up .

It's not something that someone will do imo , as these are few and far between . But I'm happy to help with any questions . Lots of info on here from fellow chaps who are in the know [emoji1303]

In this way @1985michael172

Air Temperature Sensor

If you zoom in - as dave has said , blue pipe in pic centre goes to the servo pipe connection But as you can see on my Ph1 with the RS2 inlet - my troubles were to achieve additional outlets for the idle valve and vac take off for the fuel pressure regulator . You have it easy [emoji23]

If you would have , what one would you wished you'd have kept ?

Had mine 10 yrs in April . Know what you mean

Nice to see it on all 4's , your track day will be mega and the spice for keeping it alive will return. [emoji1303]

The green wires are shorted together , causing your issue . Check the loom further up and separate the melting together of the wires.

The boot lamp staying on now , probably because the switch is supposed to open and close the Earth circuit . Seems that the fire [emoji91] may have shorted the loom together and the switched earth wire is a constant earth now hence the lamp stays on . Check the loom out

Can a friend also bring along a type R or is it just Renault's ? @TimR26

Are there any lock ups / businesses that can offer secure parking that are / have insurance cover . Might be an option .

Ace cafe was tonight . As it is every 3rd Monday of the month. See you there sometime [emoji1303]

Let's see those @sugbug

Thanks for that bit of info , but at that price I'll still continue to clean my ropey 17 year old throttle [emoji12]. I'll have a look into other poss renault ones also [emoji1303]

Do you have a link fella [emoji2]

Loving that there's another one before the years out . I missed the last one . Vote for both as I'm easy with either. Thanks @TimR26

You also mention a jammed flap . I don't like those [emoji15] , but see if it operates once you remove the filter and check its operation

Take the pollen filter out and see if that makes a difference . If yes - replace the filter [emoji1303]

[emoji38] [emoji23]

You can see in the pic that it uses a bracket and a strap , which I might add are rocking horse s**t nowadays . You need one of those

Yes the Monday just gone . Try and get down when you can

P201 40 pin is where your looking at ? Says pin 14 is starter output . A little vaige , but clearly it's an earth [emoji290]. The power from the ignition switch travels from there all the way to the starter relay me thinks . So somehow either the multi timer unit switches that Earth...

Yes ast do some - orange looking. Camber / castor adjustment is achievable Compbrake I think do a similar mount , not sure it achieves the same results

Saw you a couple of time approx 6.30am. Car does look very nice , clean also .