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Years gone by - we used to cut off that connection and replace it with a new spade connector . Cured it every time . More than likely it's over heated over time and is either dirty or current overload burnt which is why it fails.

I've had creaking from within the rack before . It turned out to be a dry rack and pinion on the left side of the rack. I removed the n/s rack gator and lubed rack bed as necessary and all was good . Worth a try as its cheap.

@Fraser.J. Have you any pics of where you mounted the pins.

cs_dave . I'm a bit confused with the quoted . You say they look better than aero . What do ? You've not said. I mean : the Op is about aero catches and I posted an alternative.

Car is coming along nicely - subscribed also . I'll be removing wiring from the rear at some point , but it's got to warm up first lol .

Mine is a roadie also , so locking is No1 priority. Do look good though

Really like these - but not having a locking system on them would be pointless using them.

@Ben NBR Cup , any updates fella . Have you done anything ?

Have a read in here http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Pictures-of-your-looped-rack-for-EPAS%2E-What-fittings-have-you-used%3F.772015/

This is a common issue I have found . I would suggest warming up the said catch and gently bending it into shape . It can't be that hard . Make a template out of cardboard the curve of the boot lid and then you will have the curve to work to when shaping the catch . I'll be doing just this...

I ran DS2500's , had them in for ages , used on road as well . Always performed well for me . As its been said its all down to how you abuse them that denotes if they perform well or not .

Ah that's handy - inlet coming off soon as I have my RS2 going on , so I'll do the rack business after its installed . Nice one .

Can you Pm me a pic of the bits please . Like to see what you got on offer [emoji106]

Nice one - you cheap skate lol :tounge out . I'm now guessing you can sealer the rack in situ ? Did you ? Or did you have the rack out.

Okee dokee cheers , I'll take a look then. With regards to the bolts , are they flat headed so to hide under the outer trim ?

I own a Ph1 172 and have always been curious as to what protocol it actually is . OBD or OBD2 . Would love to know as I want to buy a compatible Elm327 dongle to transfer my Revs and other info to my Harry's lap timer app. Oh forgot to say the app is on IOS

Have you an eBay link to the bolts and spacers please ?

I'd say that's the water pump making that noise . Once the belt is off , a check of all the pulleys will reveal an issue of some sort .

Going to keep it silver , thought it looked decent as it is . If I sprayed it - it would prob look all beat up soon enough with stone chips.

Fitted my mesh yesterday , to protect the Oil cooler from harmful stones flying up. [emoji2]

To be honest - I know what you want to do , but you actually haven't asked a question. You just say your planning on moving the ignition to switches . I guess your wanting any info regarding has anyone done this successfully. Am I right ? We're all willing to help where we can .

This yours @marinemackay2003

Such a shame you didn't notice that the shell was rotten prior . Your not messing about are you , new shell and engine out already , fair play you done well .

I've 1deg camber shims on the rear also . Not had any rubbing as the kick is inwards at the top .

20mm front 10mm block hub spacers Rear Just right imo

I kinda like it , I like the option of inter-grating the rear camera into the front facing video as an extra in the corner . With regards to accuracy , you have bettered your time so that's a plus . I guess that's all that matters as your using the same timing device .

Just a quick question : HLT , do you use the dongle thingy in the obd port for RPM and speed display or just the app

Good time that - was that at your local track ? Knock hill

Love the front - looks great with the headlamps now