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The Dunlops are superior, decent in the wet too. I only run RSRs as they're cheap.

Legend! Worked a treat.

I'll give it a go. Could be the TDC sensor too?

Checked spark. Nothing. So checked coilpack plug and the coilpack isn't getting power.

Only rumble I got was from the bearings needing doing. Fine since with -1.83 camber. Going for -3.2 next week. That's on Cooksports

No previous running issues. Used it a couple of weeks ago. Went to open the car and the battery was to low to open the central locking so had to use the lock on the passenger side, however the alarm LEDs were still flashing. Got it charged up and now it won't fire. Turns over fine, can smell...

What management have you got?

Both as good as each other imo. Used both before now.

I've got the AST top mounts on mine. No drilling required (direct fit) and they have camber and caster adjustment. No difference on the road apart from better feel. Feels tighter, turns in better.

That's normal. They're much better than standard though :)

Re: Ph1 172 Ordered some studs so I can get rid of the wheel bolts, 10mm hubcentric spacers for the front with a 60.1-73.1 centre bore so I won't need spigot rings, 10mm rear spacers with an extra -1 degree camber. I'll get all that on then take it to get the front geo set up. Roll on Oulton...

Nice spec! Decent for the money too

60 and 80mm. They're on ebay

No, just a bit of searching! I reckon they could be found even cheaper, just need to find out who manufactures them.

Sorry to disappoint you but they're the same 10.9 grade, bullet tipped, zinc coated with allen key recess.

Well I've found the same studs elsewhere for £52 posted. I've already got a set of nuts. Everyone is out to make a profit though so with a bit of searching I bet I can find them cheaper.

It is a good kit. The studs look like the AIT ones which are £5-6 each, so its very well priced in that respect.

Not had an issue with them before. Why do you say that?

I'll be running 10mm spacers on the front and no spacers on the rear. I want to change to studs for ease of fitting and swapping wheels. What length will I need for the front and rear. Also what thread and pitch are they? Thanks chaps :)

Pico's are tried and tested. I'd stick with them

You could just run the normal B14 kit. They're 70n/mm front and 40n/mm rear.

Noticed mine has just started. Only been on since July and done 1k miles at most. I oiled it well before fitting too.

Re: My PH1 172 I was tempted to take my beam off this weekend but couldn't be arsed in the end. Looks nice, it'll be as clean underneath as it is on top the rate you're going.

Looks good. When will you map the new manifold?

I could push them in and they wouldn't push back out, not like the standard ones do.

Duratec only in name ;) its a Zetec

Just fitted mine, they are oil filled from what I can tell.

Using ST170 as a base engine. You're talking £3500 with ECU, mapping, Hayabusa ITBS, head work, catcams, springs, pocketed standard pistons, balanced bottom end with 7.25" clutch and flywheel. This has given 270bhp on the standard exhaust manifold.

Start with a st170. Very easy to do a 240bhp zetec then. Even getting a standard zetec head to a good enough spec only costs £600-700 for bigger one piece valves, solid lifters and port work. The issue the zetec has with revs is the oil pump. To make a truely reliable one you need a dry sump...

Powerflow North West in Deeside are cheap. Mike there cut out my old one and fitted a new smaller one with extra pipe work for 60. A decent silencer alone is about 60.