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Can the epas setup be used on any rack or is it best to use it on a non pas rack?
Thoughts was to remove pas and loop my current rack (Ph1 172) and see how it goes.
If I dont like the feel then add in the epas column etc to the rack. Would this work and anyone done it the same way?
Email safety devices and see if they have any used cages coming into stock
They changed the design of the full cage for clios and they were exchanging them for anyone who had the old style. Cages were then inspected and sold on, often listed on their website. I got a full cage for £360
3 out of 4 of mine were ok just last month and that was on a 120k mile Ph1, thought if I put on fresh ones with some copper grease they would be ok for a fair while
Apologies, cant find the photo I had of the part numbers anywhere
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Would it still come under B class or would it then go into C class as clio’s didnt have the option of a turbo as standard? Would be in similar class to cars with engine conversions I would think
I tried to have a look at the blue book but wasn’t very clear as usual!
Link below to the 2018 blue book, it isn’t the easiest to understand especially for someone new to it.
https://www.motorsportuk.org/assets/000bb2018completelow-res88.pdf
Being a turbo conversion may really over complicate things for getting it to fit into a class and then you requiring alot...
In A2 road going class you dont need any extra equipment over standard, just certain criteria to be met such as no rose joints / solid top mounts, poly carb windows to start as theres a few things. You can still have it highly modified in this class
With being a turbo conversion this will...
Such a shame when rust appears like this as usually by the time you see it from the exterior its far too late.
Integra DC2’s were bad for the same, rotting from the inside out
Great, cheers for that. What I was hoping to hear
Removed one cage yesterday, just a case of pushing the locating tabs in as much as possible and prising it out with a mixture of drivers / prybar. Will be a bit easier maybe with subframe dropped rather than doing it with it in place.
Making...
Just dropped my subframe for a manifold swap and 3/4 of the bolts came away ok, one of the fronts required the cage removed and held with a socket.
Im looking to replace all the nuts & cages as I fear I may not be so lucky the next time round and some of the cages look quite rusty and aged...
For all the extra time involved I just took the rad out the way to make it alot easier for myself as any space gained is always an advantage when working on the clios!
Manifold will be mild steel I think. Im currently having a V band installed on my manifold but having it done before I fit it as would be quite tight for access when its on the car and getting the weld all the way round it.
If access is too tight, you could unbolt the manifold and surely be...
Had no anti rattle clips on my CL RC5’s and they rattled like hell and sounded awful
However I Have read that PBS’s are alot better without them and dont sound like the cars disintegrating so sure you’ll be fine
Iv ran R1R’s on my dc2 integra and used them on scottish roads with lots of standing water with no problems
Bought them as a starter tyre for when I was doing sprints / hillclimbs to then use them as a wet tyre once I got a dedicated dry / softer tyre
They didnt appear to have overly stiff...
Im sure you’ll need a different camber setup from road tyres aswel for using slicks. Might be better off with something like the Extreme VR2 in R5 compound which are proving to be really good in sprints / hills compared to the previous tyres alot of people ran (R888 SG) Im speaking from a road...
On a long distance drive they wont be under the same strain as cornering on track, wont be working so hard and generate less heat than a track day
Plus he’ll be carrying more weight which will be a requirement for slightly higher pressures
Just go by OEM pressures as stated for the load your...