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Constant high revs. But this can be brought down by pulling the pedal up. Also the throttle pedal is very stiff and it's hard to get revs pulling off. It is as if the cable isn't doing anything.

I've noticed that when jacking the Clio up it doesn't go up level. As I can take two weeks off the ground if I jack it from one front corner and only one wheel when jacking from the other front. I've just put the car on axel stands, ground is level and the rear is not level, I can get one stand...

Apart from the throttle it's fine after months of no use, just needs to be used as it is a bit noisy and tappy, which I am sure will go after a good long run Ahh ok, don't really fancy stripping it down but if needs must!! As I have no engine breaking, it revs to 5k every time I change gear...

Car is back on the road.....not for long as I've just driven to my brothers so the suspension can be changed. Wouldn't start this morning, battery was fine, and cranked over fine, just didn't fire. Tbh I may have poo'd my pants as I though this is going to be immobiliser and it's going to be...

I've got a multi meter yeah, but I just hate anything electrical

ahh ok, would have thought the general loom would be the same over the entire range, but knowing the things on my car that have not been straight forward it could be anything. Thanks for the advice.

Thats amazing, THANKS! I hate car electrics.....actually I hate electronics and anything like that. Remember helping my step dad wire his kit car and that was a nightmare! I am sure it took longer to wire it than all of the mechanical building of it Totally missed input 7 was missing! I will...

This is back of the switch. The "A" is at the top if it isn't clear in the picture. Think I am going to go for this switch, looks a bit neater. http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/illuminated-push-button-hazard-switch-red-circular-with-rubber-splash-proof-cover

But looking at the switch, it is two rows of 4 pins with a letter "A" above the top row int he middle. Which order are the pins?! lol. Or is there labels on the connector (can't see as car isn't with me!)

Brilliant thank you! All I was going to do was match the exisiting terminal block connections with what will be on the new switch and patch them in with a home made wires and spade connectors. So knowing what is what on the hazard switch will be needed

This is not fair.....your car is (will be) back on the road before mine!! Although I have next Friday off to fit the suspension with my brother so it will be ready Saturday (via a week of light driving, aka my brother driving like a mentalist in it, to shake it down before a full wheel alignment...

Luckily I already have a second panel as I may have slipped with the dremel and one hole is a little too big, so I needed to re-do it anyway! Just need to source a wiring diagram for the hazard switch connector to do some bodging

I know what you mean. If they sat flush, like they do in the original trim, then I think it would be fine. I think I will be investing in a new switch, something similar to this and remake the panel. Would rather have the right one installed than fit it and it drive me mad! Was never sure about...

Made a pannel for the hazard and central locking switch (need to put a hole in for the immobiliser LED). But I am not sure about it, want some opinions. The switches don't sit flush and I am not sure if I like it. I know I can get a different hazard light switch and work out the connections...

Who thought having both switches being fitted for the window to work was a good idea?!?! Passenger will have to suffer with the window constantly up. Although it is an excuse to fit poly windows now.......

I have just realised that picture of the door is awful! Damn glare on the glossy plastic. The look better in the flesh and not so rippled.

As promised pictures of my door cards as I knew some people couldn't contain themselved with the suspense of not seeing them :tongueclosed: lol Simple and effective I think. Do the job. As I said, when I put Lexan windows in I will change the design slightly as I have learnt how to do it now...

Thin black plastic. Came on a massive roll. I am just about to post pictures in my progress thread. Used a dremel to make cut outs for the window and mirror switches. This will be changed when I upgrade to Lexan windows at some point.

Damn and blast!!!! Thanks though for the wiring diagram. I should have checked before I started riveting. What a pain!

Door cards are now done!! Will post pictures tomorrow ewhen I'm back at home and on my PC. Was a bit of a mad rush as it started to rain with about 10mins to go! Bought a dremel to do the switches and it is simply the best tool I have ever used!! Simple things, simple minds :tongueout: although...

Currently I have the window switches on the drivers side on my nice light weight door cards I have made. Drivers window works. Passenger window doesn't work. Was working fine when I took the switch off. The passenger wiring doesn't have the switch on it, just an open terminal block. Do I need to...

I tried for 10mins and with no success so I ended up taking the bumper off as I was sure it was going to be less hassle and quicker. Just amazes me for a job that should be done by any motorist regardless of technical ability and also done at the side of the road the easiest way was to remove...

It's my job for tomorrow. Just picked the bulbs up now but too dark to fiddle with it. I hope it's not too much faff as I have stuff to do on the Ph1 I have to get done tomorrow!!

Sure I have some around in the spares box. Not sure why I found results to suggest it was otherwise, unless aftermarket lights. THANKS!!!!!!!!

That rear spoiler on the V6.....I WANT! That isn't the standard one is it? Where can I get? Also, why is the black 172 so high at the front? But look beautiful and clean, very nice :up:

Bulb has gone on the Ph2 daily (non-sport). Seen a few conflicting searchs to what it is. It is a H7 just to put my mind to rest so I can go get one. I would go and remove the blown one and check but it is dark outside to fiddling around the engine bay. And why are they such a pain to get to...

Just totalled up what I have spent this winter on the car....it is more than what I paid for the car :tongueclosed: It will be so worth it in the end!

I now run an induction kit and the ICV has a small breather filter on it. If you have found where it should be on yours then good stuff. If it fell off you may want to consider either replacing the pipe if it has warn and become too large and loose or use a jubilee clip on in to hold it in place.

My car has been stood since September and not been used. I have a cover on it to try to keep the worst of the rain off to stop potential leaking. I also use thoise moisture traps inside it. Car is also started and left for about 20/30mins on tick over every week when I go home. Still sounds...

What, this bit?