This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Imo i wouldnt powdercoat the rear parts, a good quality paint job is much better at getting battered with stones etc and easy to do once blasted, coating looks good for a year max then just needs repaired all the time to keep it looking good....most disagree but been there done it,
You may need to fit an additional dog bone type mount on the forward side if running big power, is it cracked or been torn apart on the weld haz? It may just need more weld with a bigger cap or the steel is to thin, hard to say without seeing one tbh....you could fit a custom made job, or brace...
Something like dinitrol or schultz do various coatings, the bilt hamber stuff mentioned is good but not good enough for wheel arches or areas that are heavily impacted by in the wet, lucky if it holds up for a year from what I've seen
Blocked strainer maybe, check to see if sump was layered with sealant when fitted last time, people/s**t mechanics love doing this, my mates "rebuilt" cvh engine done by what he thought was a legend failed because of this in less than 100miles 😂
What's the plan, new engine and map tweak?
Other one I tried was autobrite magifoam I think it was, goes on quick thick and has a long dwell time (20mins) but it was also very good at removing heavy grime, just need to stick to the dwell time as it needs it, top quality product though
It's all I use in the winter months on my cars, quick snowfoam and a rinse and that's it, it's good for under arches etc also, really good stuff if you give it a decent dwell time
Best thing to do is see if there is anyone local to you on the forum who could maybe pop round in give you a hand, even better they may have spare parts to aid fault finding and save you some cash
Like I said best to find the drain, power must be getting sucked from the battery through one of the fuses, it takes time but should eventually find it, get battery checked also as it may have a weak cell which will hold enough power to start the car in the short term but not enough power over...
It's simple enough, R, 1, 3 and 5th are back, obviously others are forward, left and right positions are the same as in the car, use 5th to set the gear linkage is best/always worked for me
It should be fine for 4 weeks, you'd need to go through the fuse box and see what's taking power and to check the alternator is producing the voltage it should be, obvious places to start are boot/glove box lights staying on etc
I would just change it if it was me, if your only doing timing belt kit with no dephaser it's only around £320 mark on a cup fitted by someone who knows what their doing, not a lot of cash for piece of mind imo
If it was me I'd just get items painted with a good zinc primer undercoat, powder coating always starts to fail very easily on certain exposed items on the corners etc if the cars used as a daily etc from my experience, engine parts would be fine maybe but subframes, beams etc will get rattled...
Both utter bellends for this to take place where it did, if you's want to scrap each other then arrange a meet and fight like men instead of running about like dickheads, as said likely caused damage to other people's cars