Search results

Yes, it’s not uncommon on these to need something just on one side. Either for camber or toe to bring them in line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s probably a reconditioned one so there is a chance that the casings are not the same. If you’ve tested it and it’s ok then you’ve got a spare! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s probably it then. [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not standard or at least I’ve never seen that. Is there any evidence of work being done on the head? Porting or skimming? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I very nearly typed that! That may be the plan for the future! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Doesn't matter what you coat them in I think. If you use a lighter colour it's just going to go this way. Mine are regularly coated with VHT paint and after one outing return to this too.

I had exactly the same with them on the race car and standard callipers. Great pads but too aggressive and destroy discs. Gone back to CL RC 6 now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Love Orange bikes although my current hard tail is a Cube that I’ve had for a few years. The geometry just seems to be perfect for me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a bar welded between the 2 shock turrets. Independent of the cage. Maybe you can find a local fabricator to do this? Shouldn’t be too costly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you’re only doing track days a 4 point will be fine. (5 point is better but more awkward) Without a cage you just need to find a way of mounting the shoulder straps behind you. This angle is critical. 3 inch straps will be the most comfortable unless you use a HANS device in which case 2...

This is what I have. Best fitted with the tank dropped though and not even sure it's doable without removing the tank.

Might actually meet you there! I'm racing at Snett on the Saturday but giving Rob Quantrell a hand at Silverstone on the Sunday in his Clio. (Won't be driving unfortunately)

Yes, on my Seat Leon Cupra R they used to melt all the time. Don’t use the caps anymore on any car. (Although all the other cars are race cars anyway!) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Part of the fun for me is building and working on these cars and I definitely wouldn't have the budget to pay someone else to build it anyway. That said, I'm still easily into £20k. For that money though I have a very competitive car that is always at the sharp end of 30-40 car grids. Also...

Thought I'd updated this after the test day in March! Can barely remember it now and obviously all racing came to a standstill literally the day after the test. So, the test day.. It almost all went to plan! The morning was spent dividing the driving between Jon and me, Slowly getting quicker...

Definitely sounds wiring related. Have you checked all your earth points? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn’t know for certain but there’s a good chance. The F4R design is just about the worst for a high revving engine. Because of the stroke, on full chat the pistons move up and down the bore faster than an F1 engine! (Can’t remember the figures but it’s ridiculous) no wonder they like to let...

Beware of skimming the head though. As these engines are interference engines valve to piston clearance is tight. If you want a higher compression ratio buy pistons designed for that purpose which are profiled accordingly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use King Race bearings and have found them to be good. Yes, I would stay away from Wossner pistons if you can although they are an affordable way to get the compression up. I use JE pistons but they are made to order in the states. pure motorsport head is a nice bit of kit but if you’re only...

Yes it’s all on there but DM me if you need more info Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, Laguna rear wiper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“Becauseracetart”! I like it! I think that might be me too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Supertech valves and springs are the easiest upgrade. Change valve stem seals while you’re at it. Rod bolts and Megane bottom pulley and you should have a pretty safe engine. And obviously make sure the timing is done properly when it all goes back together. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Quite often the end of the sensor gets snapped off. At least this one has escaped that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the oil level sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s the oil pressure sensor. Is the plug actually broken or could it just be repinned? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes! That’s the one. Precision engineering right there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tooling not rolling! Bloody autocorrect Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I’d say just pretty badly made. There’s some old footage floating around on the internet of a Renault factory with a technician bending a door in all directions and hammering the catch with a mallet to get it to fit! So with those sort of tolerances and probably some variation in the rolling...

My Poorboys looks exactly the same! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk