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Chances are it'll be the common inconsistency between pedal track 1 and 2 issue. You can try cleaning up the big white connector in the engine bay fuse box, as this often causes issues but if not, you'll need to do some load testing on the entire circuit and find your issue this way.

Without having much to scale from, i'm taking a complete guess here. It looks like the bolt is either one of the lower inlet plenum to cylinder head fixings fixings (Timing case side) OR more likely, it's the fixing which holds the alternator upper restraint bracket to the cylinder head and goes...

It depends on how badly chewed up it is but normally, you need something like an Irwin removal socket set: https://www.bes.co.uk/irwin-bolt-grip-fastener-remover-16923/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6pOTBhCTARIsAHF23fIDWqh2zgONjX81QotJ5Ti0yEjelJb5eQvdxyHSA-zCkOHzwgEy0a0aAm-OEALw_wcB If that doesn't get a good...

Inlet/Depahser pulley bolt: 30Nm then torque to 100nm... job done!

Easiest and most inexpensive thing to do would be to pull the sump and inspect the big ends. If they’re not damaged check the mains and if they’re also good, replace/repair the sump, new oil and filter… see how it goes. The only thing you’ll waste is your time. If the bearings/crank is scored...

What are you trying to do?

JCX boxes use a tapered roller bearing, to deal with the torque better. There's also some minor differences in seals between the two but the main difference is bearing types.

It'll be one of the GMV's so 4 or 5... can't remember exactly which one I'm afraid, it's been a while.

I had it on a 182 Trophy recently and it turned out to be the relay battery supply, where some kind soul had historically pierced the wire to probe it. They're usually easy fixes on cars of this age, once you understand the circuits and how they function. The later stuff is all CAN/LIN and needs...

https://sw9355.smartweb-static.com/upload_dir/docs/Pioneershop.dk/Monteringsvejledninger/SPH-EVO62DAB-CLIO-Installation.pdf

Always game with issues like these. The only problem I have is time… We’re booking for May at the minute, with a few random spaces in late April. Drop me an email sometime if you fancy getting her in: www.diamondmotors.co.uk

The EML light being on is a good thing! It shows the issue isn’t the usual bag of worms. The most likely issue here is the injection latching relay function. You’ll either have 0-3v on the output or the control side of the circuit, which powers the Injectors common +12v and IGN Coil +12v. In...

Welcome to the club and that’s a very nice looking 182. It’s way too clean to track abuse :P Mick

There's loads of people around with access to clone CLIP but it's not a magical silver bullet. What you need to do is understand the actual cause for the solid red ADAC. Firstly, when you turn the key to IGN ON, do all the warning lights come on and then go out? Pay particular attention to the...

As a new player entering the game, can you confirm it’s a Mk2 Clio and the ADAC is staying lit, solid red when you turn the key on, still? Mick

Did you ever resolve this?

On a car that’s this age, I’d not worry too much about it. If the compression is good and there aren’t other issues (leak down/oil consumption) I really wouldn’t worry.

There’s a Pioneer installation guide for this vehicle/head unit which details the wiring mods required to *some* vehicles. I think the cars which were MediaNav/MediaNav Evo equipped are plug and play but the cars which had the better R-Link/RS Monitor are a fkn nightmare. I’ll see if I can find...

Triggers rusty broom, still going strong 💪

The dealer needs to update CLIP as we’re on v220 and generally are behind dealer Net. From the description I’d say it sounds like an issue with the ESP Switch. Check the switch status in PR’s and then remove it, load test the wiring back to ABS and possibly strip the switch down, clean and...

All lip seals can be done without the tooling so long as you fit them ‘true’ and that you don’t damage/deform them. They’re all pretty easy with the exception of that inlet cam seal, which is plastic. Disrespect it in any way and it’ll leak! The plastic seal has a guide installed, mainly to...

If it were both, you wouldn't have anything more than 2.5krpm. Sounds more wiring related but you still really need to do some basic component and wiring tests to be able to say with confidence "it's fixed"

Gates kits are utter Chinesium trash these days, so spend the extra and just get the OE kit. They only Gates component in the OE kit is the belt itself. It's the nasty water pump they bundle has a bearing that I wouldn't trust on a set of bike stabilisers and the rest of the furniture just looks...

Water pump - absolutely NO sealant required on a genuine pump/gasket combo. Just make sure the mating face is clean and has no traces of old gasket remains. Bolt up finger tight, make sure the bearing runs ok, finally torque to spec and that's it... job, jobbed! Cam seals (assuming timing end)...

The lamps are region specific on the Mk2's - You can't convert LHD lamps to RHD but I'm sure someone makes a nasty stick-on sense correction device

Which potentiometer, there's two? You've got a tracked pair at the pedal and another pair at the throttle body. Ideally, you're going to need to get a scope on the tracks and look for noise in the signals. If they're all nice and clean and range correctly, you're going to need to do some...

It really depends on the actual fault as they all manifest with the same symptom but the diagnosis can be slightly different. Ultimately though, constructing a new mini loom from pedal to ECU and then ECU to TB works great (Depending on the ability of the person building the loom sections).

Hey Steven, I have seen you’ve sent a message in to our website. I’m away with the family until Monday, so please don’t think I’m ignoring you.

You’ll need to fault finding the circuits controlled by that 5A fuse. Chances are, it’ll be a door lock actuator or damaged wiring, in the flexi sections of the door looms. You’ll need to do some investigation though as a plug-in diagnostic isn’t likely to find this one.

It could be a few things: HO2 Sensor, CTS, Map sensor, throttle body. Check everything is clean and that there are no silly little air leaks and if it still remains, you’re going to need to look at live data and potentially get some help. Mick