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There is no rubber spring bed thingy on the sport models. Afaik, the regular Clios have a different damper, though. Edit: oh, and just to comfirm what other people are saying: that is very low for pro lines. Much lower than on my 172ff for sure.

Don't get the gsd3's if you're gonna use tem on track mostly. Hankook RS2's are great for the track, if a little slipy in the wet. Kumho KU15 are also good grippy tyres, probably just as grippy as the RS2's but supposedly a little worse in the wet.

According to my experience the sidewalls are way too soft for track day use. Good enough for the road, though.

+1 Goodyear F1's are aweful for track use. Mainly because the sidewall is much too soft. Might be barely okay for wet conditions, though, as the cornering loads are not as high, but I would avoid them. Toyo R888's are not bad, as they're pretty cheap for a semi slick, but I hear they are also...

Since some people on this thread have suggested that the problem lies with the pads: No, it doesn't.* With pad fade the brake pedal doesn't get any longer or spongy or falls all the way to the floor, as described here. Pedal travel stays the same, but you have to apply much more pressure to get...

H&R has camber bolts for the 172. I've got them on mine and they work well.

He's on eibach pros, not sportlines, so there's only a very minor drop and pro lines usually very well with standard dampers. They do so on my car and on many others.

Price alone doesn't really say much about the tyre, tbh. So, unless we know what exact tyre they fitted to his 172, we can't really say much. People on here rate the PE2's very highly usually, but for moderate road use I'd say it's not necessary to shell out that much money. You can get a decent...

You sure about the colour? I heard the black ones were quicker.

I'd have to agree. I changed to pro lines with standard dampers not long ago, and while they do feel rather good initially and seem to reduce body roll slightly, they don't really make a noticeable difference on track, tbh. So, I'd say they're fine for the road, and if you have to change...

I don't know what offset the ph. 1 OZ's have, but I've got 205/50's on 15" OZ F1's which have an offset of 37. One of the effects is, that I've got some slight rubbing on the outside of the rear wheel arches. It's not much and could be cured, but I haven't gotten round to it, yet. Apart from...

Whether they actually add to the performance of the car - or take away from it - depends on how the car handles to begin with. Since the Clio is rather prone to understeer, a front strut brace is likely to worsen handling by stiffening up the front and thus increasing the tendency to understeer...

That seems to be the PSS9, built according to YozzaSport's specifications. But even though it's in the 172 section, it says it's for the 182. So I reckon it's in the wrong section then. And 1,600£ is indeed quite a steep price tag. Too much for me, anyway.

Is the PSS9 available for the 172? According to the Bilstein webpage it's not (same with the KW v3, btw).

Nordschleife is rather far from where I live, so I won't regularly be going there. It's too time consuming. I haven't once gotten round to going there, yet, but I've only been tracking my car since November last year, so it's still early in my track day "career". And I've still got huge respect...

Thanks for the info.

Have you ever had any problems with your brakes, Schweppy? Cause if you haven't, what's the point in upgrading? It depends on driving style, of course, but according to my experience, the standard setup is fine for road use.

I do like my car and my health. What I don't like is to shell out 240€ again. Those tyres were really not that old. I guess I'll have them checked at a good tyre place and see if they can be repaired.

Hi everybody, today I found some screws in my Toyo R888s. I had been wondering about a very strange noise coming from the front and had considered a severe mechanical problem already. As you can see, the screws were around 7 millimieters deep into the tread, of which seems to be a little more...

I think LEDAs are not an option for me, as they don't seem to sell them in Germany and therefore it would be a lot of hassle to get them TÜVed, I suppose. Also, unlike the original poster, I'm after a setup that works very well on track but is still good for everyday use (sorry, if this is sort...

Sorry about this, but I HAD to do it:

*bump*

I also would be interested to hear some opinions from people who track their cars regularly. @dhampton: How would you rate the B14 as a compromise setup for road and track alike? Is the ride as harsh as most people seem to say? What difference do the damper settings (sport and comfort) make in...

Here's my personal favourite as of yesterday:

So out the window goes my hope of reducing the vibration by going towards more negative camber. :( I'm on standard atm.

Are you saying you're going towards positive on camber? I am going to have my camber set to -1.5° to -2° soon and I was actually hoping that might reduce the judder/vibration...

Sounds just like my problem. Same side of the car, but mine is LHD, so it's got nothing to do with weight distribution. Also mine's done this on standard suspension and on pro lines, so lowering is not the problem either. My top mounts are brand new and the problem still persists. Apparantely my...

I think I'll actually stick with eibach pro springs and standard dampers for now. Once finances allow, I will switch to coilovers (could be along time coming).

The Ferodos are supposed to go on there without the shims. Maybe that's the reason for your problem? Strange that so many people seem to have to grind them. Mine fit just fine right out of the box...

Don't know if there are different versions around, but my 15" OZ F1s have an offset of 37. What's the standard offset on the Cup?