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After some more searching I'm pretty sure it's the knock sensor - please could someone confirm?

When I went to change my oil filter today I discovered a connector hanging down. On closer inspection it looks like it's come from a sensor just above and to the right of the oil filter. (Red and white wires if that helps). It looks like part of the housing has destroyed itself as there's no way...

I've run 205 45 16, 195 45 16 and 195 50 15. The biggest difference you'll notice is the price! Handling - v.unlikely you'll notice anything Looks - 195's look a tiny bit more stretched over the rims, but again there's not much in it. Remember older 172s ran these 'smaller' sizes anyway...

I've got the exact same problem. My first thought was that it was stalk related but I'm definitely trying this first. I'll report back on my success (or otherwise).

They are 4x100 Offset is 37 or 38 on cup Turinis iirc. Trophy turinis are a different offset (43?) Centre Bore 60.1mm

Eibach springs and standard shocks gives you a setup pretty much like standard - you can go a bit lower on the sportlines if you want without really sacrificing handling. If you just want lowering, then coilovers are the obvious choice, but for an upgrade either Eibachs + Koni Adjustables or...

Hate starting another Hankook thread, but can't find the answer... The only Hankook V12's available seem to have a load index of 87, doesn't this mean more road noise? Are the V12's preferable to the S1's?

Does sound a little steep, only other thing I can think of - is this the first year you've insured a relatively high category car?

Yes, they're fine. They are primarily for aligning the wheel centrally while you bolt it to the car, once the wheel nuts are tightened there's going to be hardly any load on the spigot rings.

I generally do all of my own servicing, but since it's been a while since I've had a professional eye look over the car I'm wondering about getting some kind of inspection from a garage to let me know the state of everything. What I'd ideally like is a list with a run down of the condition of...

True, but I picked up some after market OZ F1's for just £50 rather than a few hundred... I'd rather have something that's 90% identical and extra money to spend on other stuff.

Just insured with Admiral as Privilege didn't seem to understand modifications... Privilege : "So has your stainless steel exhaust added 20% or 30% more power?" Me : "You what?" They also insisting on giving me a £425 excess (which for someone in their 30's with 8 years no claims & no...

I have OZ F1 multi-fit (non-renault) alloys for the track. Just get the correct spigot rings to ensure the wheels are centered and balanced. The chances of a (non-damaged) alloy failing before some other part of the car must be practically zero - multi-fit or not.

Is it because the are made in large volumes? :rasp: Or perhaps they save on advertising because they have the shortest name of any tyre manufacturer :S

I've been wondering about R888's (haven't got them yet, but intend to). These are road legal tyres so resumably they can't specifically discriminate against R888s versus all the other non-maunfacturers fit tyres that you could have on. Not that I really care - I'm old and my insurance is cheap!

I want to change all of mine before I suffer another sheared off bleed nipple that effectively wrecks a caliper. I can't remember the size - is it M6 or M8?

Definitely the most likely cause

I have them on my cup. Just like most people are saying, some increase in vibration but you quickly get used to it. Definitely feels more solid and power delivery seems more 'direct' somehow.

Half an hour? You need more practice ;)

For the money which is the optimum track set up? I'm thinking that by the time you factor in the setup costs of coilovers, a set of Koni adjustables + Eibach springs might be a better option.

I use RC6's on the track and they are fantastic. I haven't had any problems with dust. They are noisey when cold though - I change back to OEM for the road.

I'm pretty intrigued by the DIY rear strut brace guide... Leaving aside the argument on whether any rear strut brace makes a difference, I can't think why this solution wouldn't offer the exact same benefits as an OMP/Sparco at a fraction of the cost. Don't they all just bolt to the top of...

That's an interesting idea - you've got me wondering if they would make better track tyres as a result. I always thought that stiffer side walls was a major benefit of track oriented tyres. I bet it's not that simple...

How does this compare to camskill prices? About the same iirc?

+1

How much should it cost to get 4 tyres removed from their rims? No disposal, no refit, no balancing - just getting them removed... It's a 10 min job for someone in a lunchtime isn't it?

But aren't the Sport Maxx's essentially road tyres whereas the Hankooks are trackday tyres (i.e. stiffer side walls?) Are there any 195 or 205/45/16 trackday tyres out there?

Camskill seem to be always out of stock, is there anywhere that you can actually purchase Hankook RS2s?

Heat build-up can make rubber lines softer leading to spongy pedal? Less flex, more positive brake pedal feel? Better heat dissipation?

I agree. I have the ktecs and they really give a nice direct feel to the front end. There is a marked increase in cabin noise/vibrations, but you get used to it in about a week. It's not that bad, but try not to be surprised the first time you turn the engine on after fitting. If you are...