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Have you got a mechanics stethoscope? They're good for helping you pinpoint noises on machinery. You could try removing the aux belt and feeling if the water pump, alternator or PAS pump feel rough, and if the noise goes away with the engine running without the aux belt on. That will at least...

This exactly. If they've been cleaned and flow tested then sat for ages they will need doing again as the Heptane used in flow testing can cause them to stick if you don't get petrol through them fairly soon afterwards

Forget the bodykit, why have you got an Xmas tree up in your bedroom in May please? Or is that something else that's getting glued to the car?

The main thing with coilovers with a threaded bottom bracket is getting them set up properly. 90% of people use the bottom bracket to set the ride height which is the wrong way to do it. That's a quick explanation of how to do it right.. once you've got the damper stroke set up properly and...

Thanks 👍 Yeah, front shocks only, I've got a set of GAZ adjustable dampers for the rear. Already running eibach sportlines on cup shocks at the minute so will be re-using the eibach springs

I've not really done anything with the car other than drive it over the last few weeks. I've painted the oil cooler bracket but haven't fitted it yet, but I have had new engine and gearbox oil delivered so there's nothing holding that back other than finding the time. I ordered these last week...

I wouldn't want a pattern one, probably thinner steel than OEM and crappy coating.

That's a shame.. sounds like a good opportunity for a front end refresh though. Drop the subframe and get everything (subframe, arb, bottom arms hubs etc) blasted and powder coated

This is proof that you absolutely shouldn't 'respect all builds'

I've seen a couple of those cages now and they absolutely terrify me.. main hoop mounted with a single bolt each side in single shear, and the rear diagonal bars mounted to the rear shocks . If you're happy that it's just a 'faux cage' than that's cool, but I wouldn't be expecting it to save...

Went to a local show this evening, loads of shite there but some really nice stuff too. I'm terrible at taking pictures, I think I took a total of eight. This Tolman 205 GTi was perfection, had a good chat with the owner about it. The Mrs didn't believe me when I told her what they cost...

Sounds like a terrible idea tbh, especially on apprentice mechanics wages if they're anything like they were when I was an apprentice (granted that was 25yrs ago 🤣) It's a romantic idea of buying/recommissioning a project as your first car (believe me, I tried, realised I couldn't afford it and...

Been collecting parts to fit an oil cooler, which consists of : OBP 13 row cooler 2x M22-AN10 banjo fittings 2x Aeroquip -10 straight 2x Aeroquip -10 90° 2m Aeroquip startlite hose Mocal billet thermostatic sandwich plate 3mm neoprene rubber strip I don't like oil coolers being mounted...

You can get those Mahle O/S pistons on autodoc for £100 each delivered, they're also advertised on eBay for £79 each The part number is 021 PI 00117 002 for the +0.5mm set. So you're going to be into it for circa £400 for a set of OEM spec pistons, and depending on where you go, around...

yeah that's not honing out.. what's going on with the piston crown just up from the inlet valve pocket, is that debris or a piece missing? get a second opinion from the machine shop but given the cost of fitting liners, or buying +0.25 pistons you may be better off finding a short engine that...

Cylinders are numbered from the flywheel end.. which is the low cylinder? There are some concerning marks on 1 and 4 What did the face of the block look like when you put the head on because in that pic it's minging? You can see where the top ring stops with the piston at TDC from the ring...

That's disappointing.. how long has the engine been sat? It could be a stuck ring so you could try letting it sit with some penetrating oil in the cylinders for a day or so but it's usually wishful thinking. Looking back at the pics on pg1 the bores don't look good, I definitely wouldn't put...

did you replace the dephaser? were the exhaust cam and dephaser fasteners torqued correctly? that's significantly out. have you got a keyed bottom pulley? you need to check if the tensioner has slackened off or if the bottom pulley has spun, but it's not looking good.

describe 'worryingly out' ? it doesn't sound great TBH. at the very least I'd want it timed up properly, compression tested and a bore scope down to check for damage. have you removed the lower timing belt cover to see if the tensioner has moved?

I've got a few (not a full set sadly) non flexi angled head spanners, some Bahco combination ones with a change over lever which are very nice https://www.primetools.co.uk/product/bahco-1rm-sh12-12-piece-ratchet-combination-spanner-set-8-19mm/ and some double ended snap on ones which have a...

I won a set of Halfords advanced ones at work years ago, they're pretty good, gearwrench make a nice set of Flexi head ratchet spanners too https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/spanner-sets/1467716

Took the car down to EFIparts today for mapping, the engine is healthy and it didn't blow up on the Dyno which is a big positive. The results are 179bhp/153lbs, not going to lie I was hoping for slightly more (more like 190) but it drives really well, night and day difference from the base...

Yes, the friction surface is raised compared to the pressure plate mounting face, it is best practice to remove the same amount of material from both faces, in reality though if it's only a small cut - 0.010" or so, it won't make any difference. You _should_ replace the flywheel bolts...

It doesn't look like the flywheel has been refaced before but it does need it now. Your rear main seal is leaking, get the flywheel refaced, new RMS and an OEM spec (Valeo or LUK) clutch kit

You know the specs of the wheels you have, you know the specs of the wheels you want.. use willtheyfit and a tape measure and work it out. Will they fit? Probably, will they rub? Probably, will they look s**t? Definitely.

https://www.willtheyfit.com/

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/takata-drift-iii-snap-on-asm-4-point-harness-550234/?sku=TAK70002-H2&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22661878256&gbraid=0AAAAAD6hmRxElw4hDgPiNuzNzEQ2DPHQl&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyr3OBhD0ARIsALlo-OnbuZlBJ2GUHWAUkYE5AH1yti272m2igd6NlEr1cgu6pR0qm3pliCIaAs5CEALw_wcB...

This was my setup, memory was a bit hazy with it being 10 yrs ago, I remember making that nozzle holder now, before I had the ally one water jetted. Looking back at an old build thread it was an AEM kit with 180cc nozzle pre compressor and a 760cc nozzle pre throttle body. TBH if I did it...

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/racetech-oil-pressure-oil-temperature-dual-gauge-246424/?srsltid=AfmBOoq2LRdjc8jC0D7qXAXAgcmDhjgNjNjWKuOb6IzuXHXC_QGLc_JZ...

if it was a Williams 1 I'd say it was probably still worth saving for a skilled DIYer, as it's a 2 probably not.