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I drove the new clio (diesel) and was surprised how well it handled! Compared to its counterparts from other brands that is.. But changing for a grandpa car also means changing your mindset. I know from experience, you can't overtake like you used to, etc, etc. But it does save on gas!

Ah okay, which I don't have! So why is it a steering wheel symbol?

Just occurs to me that it also has that symbol under the rev counter..

Looked for the first time in the fusebox. And saw that one was missing! I made a pic of it, can anybody tell me what it's for? It's the top right one with the steering wheel symbol.

My manifold problem wasn't a common error. It wasn't 100% straight anymore so I sanded it slightly until it was straigthened out. But that was the fix in my case. In your case it's not sure yet where it comes from. That's why you need to get its faults read. I guess you don't own an rstuner? If...

Yes I sometimes couldn't even come to a stop at a roundabout without stalling the engine. Keeping the revs up up while breaking was the only solution during that period. As I said for me it was the intake manifold that wasn't completely closed off by the gasket so it was pulling false air. All...

It's not the top mount tapping? If you still have the old ones, you can get washers for them to stop tapping. If you have the new improved ones from Renault it's not going to be that. What happens when driving (normally) at full lock?

Accessory belt tensioner?

I guess the solution is what you already did.. Get it checked via the clip or another obd device.

The idle can be a faulty sensor (map for example). Or plugs, coil pack, leads. I had the same symptoms and after trying and replacing everything it was the intake manifold taking in air. But didn't it do this before you bought it?

I'd say it's the buttons on the steering wheel, squib or very common: the clutch switch (at the pedal). Check if it's plugged in etc.

Prepare to be amazed by what the problem was.. Some a@*hole before me thought it was a good idea to put some longer than standard bolts in the inlet manifold and didn't stop there because you can see the marks of where they were touching and boring into the alloy below. It also came off with a...

That pretty much sums up CS I'm afraid.. The trick is to navigate through all the bs.

Just read through the whole thread, very nice! No moaning about, just hard work :) The lights also look nice, what did you exactly do with them?

​It's these two: Magneti marelli seems to be the original one with part number 805001446001. And the other one is a Bosch 0280158226. A little research with those numbers shows this: So it seems that it's a replacement part for the original one? Can anybody confirm?

Changed the MAP sensor, o2 sensor, TDC sensor, coilpack, throttle body, plugs and checked timing (recent new belt and dephaser) and leads only to find that all that isn't causing the rough idle and stalling I'm experiencing. Tomorrow will be another day :coffee:

I already had the k&n filter when I bought the car so I just bought the alloy bend on eBay for about 15 quid and here's the result. Was scared maybe it wasn't gonna fit because everybody is using such small filters but it fits nicely and looks the part I think. Also makes a monstrous sound...

Brought the car back and timing was checked together with working replacements for: MAP sensor, o2 sensor, throttle body, coil pack, tdc sensor. Also checked (the new) plugs and leads, cleaned injectors and checked fittings of all hoses. Used new gaskets for the manifold. All of which didn't...

Looking at why my car isn't idling right. Turns out there are different injectors in it. 3 magneti marelli ones and one Bosch one (on the right) I check parts site and with my reg it comes with these same two options for injectors. Is it okay to use a mix or should they be all the same?

It's hard to change the average after 50k miles haha

Yes, you're right and that's exactly what I'll do. Everybody can make mistakes but he's handy enough so I guess he'll get it sorted.

I made an appointment for coming week. He said it can't be the timing because he double and triple checked after he saw it idling like that afterwards. I then just took it because I needed the car again, couldn't really leave without it. Anyway, I'll post up whatever was wrong (if it's gonna...

Alright! That seems to be consensus then! If that is the case, can it do any damage if I drive to the mechanic? (Mind it's a 2 hour drive)

Yes, but that surely doesn't mean it'll shake and sometimes stall, right?

Could someone shed some light on the readings I took from the coilpack? This is how I took the measurement: (So the coilpack is like standing in front of the car) Coils: 3 4 2 1 Connector pins: 8 7 6 5 Here's what I got for the secondary resistance: 1-4 7.29 kohm 2-3 7.27 kohm As...

It's a phase 2 so it doesn't have one.

Yeah that'll be the quickest way I guess. It's just that I took the car because I needed it and it's a two hour drive. That's why I thought I'd check things myself first .

Well I don't have the tools so I won't be doing it myself. My bet is that there's some sensor knackered because I can't imagine the mechanic fing this up honestly.. So what is there to test? And better yet, how to test it?

That's also what I was thinking. But he does loads of RS's for the Dutch club and he's very high regarded for his skill and knowledge. Anyway, how do you go about checking the timing?

As the title says, I have a nasty lumpy idle on my 172 phase 2. It started doing this after the cambelt and dephaser were changed :S (The mechanic who did it also said it wasn't done properly the last time, with tipex markings and such..) However, there's no problem at all in the higher rpm's...