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Suppose you might want to know a bit more, I work for the power unit (engine) half of Mercedes' F1 operation which is called Mercedes AMG HighPerformancePowertrains in Brixworth. We are responsible for the power unit and supply engines to three customer teams; Force India, Williams and Manor...

I was indeed...

The lateral bit of the beam provides roll stiffness. Adding material that is worked when you have relative wheel motion will increase the roll stiffness.

Bit of thread resurrection. What's the best way to drop the tank? Are the visible bolts captive? The one just infront of the driver's side beam pick up is spinning...

Bit of an update on this in case someone stumbles across this in future. I found two bits of loom where it had chaffed through, one under the battery and the other where the second lambda sensor wraps back under the heats shield. I scruffily tapped them both up and didn't have the problem for...

Sorry, I've been out the country. It's running the full sweep

Ok, so after replacing the fuse and the unplugging and replugging the UCH the car fired. The rear wiper is still going so either there is a UCH fault or a short somewhere, in the meantime I've disconnected it. I've just had another 30A ECM fuse go, replaced and everything worked again. Are...

30A ecm fuse blown, still no joy

Hi all, Bit of an urgent one. I was driving along, the dash went Christmas tree and the car cut out. Symptoms, on ignition the engine warning light flashes and the rear wiper moves. Stop, serve and esp lights are all illuminated. The car will crank but not fire. I'd guess it's UCH related as...

It is indeed running low boost but it's on low compression pistons. Throttle by feel and visually was against the stops so really don't think it is the throttle. It feels free with a solid snap to it.

Afternoon gents, Finished the last track day with an issue as ever... Car was idling at 4000rpm with oil out the breather. We'd been holding above 6500rpm down the straights which would help pressurise the crankcase. The breather vents to atmosphere, not into the inlet. Fast forward today...

Castrol SRF, the main difference is that it retains a lot higher wet boiling point making it more forgiving if you don't change it very often. You might be fine though, so see if you get away with it. We ran blue for a long time.

T1Rs are a shocking tyre!

Good combo, we often use it in the winter. If you cook the fluid try to remember when you last changed it as Superblue has a vastly different wet and dry boiling temp.

Open the boot, stand on it and bounce each side. Or better compare to a different one.

+1 for Toyo R1r tyres. We use them as wets/inters on the track car and I run them on my daily. They come with a minimum temp warning, -10C I think so I run winter tyres as well just to be safe. They just do everything I want them to do, very resistant to aqua planing both in a straight line...

Everyone's self conscious alarm will be going wild. Does it ever feel a bit weird being treated like a deity?

Pics of the ducts that didn't work for you, I think I'm capable of picturing what no arch liners and no fog lights looks like I've had a fair bit of tuition and he wasn't too concerned with my braking, not that I mean to sound high and mighty? I don't left foot brake the clio so I don't drag...

Any pics? I desperately cooked them with everything ripped out. It's better now with ducts but still not where I want it.

What makes you say that?

It's not the answer you want but I would go rallying without modding the engine and then decide if you want more power.

I would probably suggest selling the 172 and buying a 197 cup car

The last minute and standing on them shouldn't make a difference unless I'm missing something? Just the change in your cars energy. If it only takes you a second to go from 90 to 60 you've not put any more energy into your brakes than someone you took 2 seconds to go from 90 to 60

I'd love it if someone here explained to me otherwise in scientific terms but I don't think hero braking or gentle braking will have much effect on brake temps. It should just be a function of energy absorbed which will be "force * distance" or "friction * effective radius" in this case...

I always end up cooking brakes. Currently running the following; RC8 pads Brembo HC Castrol SRF Homemade ducts and scoops The ducts have been improved since I last went out so we'll see how it goes. Next stages are an anemometer at the end of the duct for testing different designs and...

Our brake pads end up like that quite a lot, we just monitor them and run them on. It takes very little time to check front brake pads so we do it between most track days and give them a squint through the caliper every time we change wheels.

We run standard camber zero toe on the rear, think 2.5 might be a bit excessive

I'm cheap/always forget to buy one and reuse it. I've never worked out how much bolt stretch you get but as it's an angular roller bearing I've always assumed the bearing displacement soaked up by the preload would be enough. But then you know what they say about assumptions... That and they...

Unfortunately so, the caliper mounting bracket was f**ked, the sliders on the caliper are ok (I think) but the bolt holes that hold the pad retention bracket are no longer aligned, as is the pad retention bracket itself. As for the bolts, one of the bolts that goes through the sliders is...

Cheers for all the help gents, turns out the caliper was bent as well so we didn't get back out. Argh!