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1400 Tuning

Maybe you should contact these guys, this looks pretty rapid!



I reckon I would just try and build a spare engine over time. Set of cams, some head work, maybe a skim if you can get away with it, then some ITBs and a decent exhaust if you can find one, see where that gets you. Should go well if you can get the weight right down. Cheap enough to replace if it fails too. Could look at pistons and rods further down the road if you felt the need.

What box do the 1400s use? Is it the same as a 1*2?



I shall try use some internet sleuthing to find the owner and ask.

These were my go to's in the first instance for now. A filter and exhaust should do and actually get some seat time.

Its a new discipline for me having always done circuit type stuff with drifting for a couple of years in the middle. I learned the hard way with drifting you can get sucked into the build when you could be out having fun and learning your craft.
 
Answered a question I've been trying to find, I believe it has a jb1 now which no-one does a diff for :(
Pure motorsport do a diff but only for boxes with certain bearings that may help.

For seat time I would recommend doing some taga rallys as some are like mini stage events.
 
Pure motorsport do a diff but only for boxes with certain bearings that may help.

For seat time I would recommend doing some taga rallys as some are like mini stage events.

I looked at these but would mean going backwards with the car.

Been looking towards 172 running gear with 1400 engine
 
you sure it has a JB1 I thought that was just the 1.2's? JB1 has the starter motor on the front where the JB3 and JC5 have it on the rear (where it is on the 1.4 and 1,6) I Would imagine the JC5 diff fits the JB3 as they look identical last time I see 2 side by side!
 
you sure it has a JB1 I thought that was just the 1.2's? JB1 has the starter motor on the front where the JB3 and JC5 have it on the rear (where it is on the 1.4 and 1,6) I Would imagine the JC5 diff fits the JB3 as they look identical last time I see 2 side by side!

Ah I got told it was ??‍♂️ Done the check you said it’s a jb3 what’s the internal difference with a jc5
 
Whilst I have knowledgeable chaps commenting.

Im going to swap out the rear axle to a 172 item for discs.

The front, I'm of the impression 172 hubs won't fit? do they bolt up but throw out the camber etc?

if not looks like im going 172 hub, shafts,bones,trackrods.

I need to to gain access to better suspension set ups and brakes.
 
ive done the full conversion before so subframe, lower arms, ARB, suspension, brakes and its a straight swap but *I THINK* you can run your current subframe and lower arms with 172 hubs, brakes and suspension. but obviously in your situation the stiffer and better mounting ARB would be a worth while change.
 
ive done the full conversion before so subframe, lower arms, ARB, suspension, brakes and its a straight swap but *I THINK* you can run your current subframe and lower arms with 172 hubs, brakes and suspension. but obviously in your situation the stiffer and better mounting ARB would be a worth while change.

Thanks mate. Tbf looks like I’ll swap the lot
 
ive done the full conversion before so subframe, lower arms, ARB, suspension, brakes and its a straight swap but *I THINK* you can run your current subframe and lower arms with 172 hubs, brakes and suspension. but obviously in your situation the stiffer and better mounting ARB would be a worth while change.
The problem with 172 hubs (done a conversion too) is in the spline.
You can run your lower arms (but without replacing the arb as it's fitted in a different way) but to use the 172 hubs/uprights and brakes you have to swap the hub inside the bearing, as the 172 got a bigger diameter driveshaft spline. Same nuts, but different spline. 23 vs (if I don't remember wrong) 21 tooth.
Another lil problem to address is the bolt pattern of the suspesion on the hub.
The 1.4 strut got 58mm between the centers m12 bolts. 1*2 got 54 or 60 spacing and m14 bolts. But it's not finished here.. the 1*2 is drilled for the strut at a different angle, so you need slotted struts to get the desired camber.

About the gearbox.. it should have the jb1 with rear starter (I got one at home so I am sure) and is pretty much the same as the jb3 fitted on the mk1 or mk2 , only difference is as said the diff bearings and their housings.
 
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