ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

182 brake failure



Ad

  MK2 FRS
^^ Weird as the brakes are exactly the same iirc. Certainly didnt notice any dfference between my 172 and 182
 
  Shhh
Ive had the brake problem twice now.

Ive pulled off from a cold start, and hit the brakes at the T-Junction and nothing, just have to press hard as of suspected loss of brake assist. Once it has happened, if you put the handbrake on and pump the brakes it comes back to life and the pedal goes solid. This happened recently again, think it was last week as i had the ex's kids in the car aswell, foot to the floor again, thought i was fred flintstone for a second when doing it...tho managed to stop, pumped the brakes up and off i went. Checked the cap for the servo and its on tight, so god knows whats up with it.

If i take it to renault, they will not fault the car as they cannot reproduce the fault. They can only change things on spec, tho i guess the pads would be near worn now as ive done 18k in the car, the car is now on 31k so suspect its due pads soon. If i drop it into them, they prob make me pay for the pads to be fitted, and new disks if required at renault prices. Got priced up for disks and pads for about £120 for the front. Dont know what renault prices shall be, but i know it shall be something more than £300 total.
 
AliasOmega said:
the car is now on 31k so suspect its due pads soon. If i drop it into them, they prob make me pay for the pads to be fitted, and new disks if required at renault prices. Got priced up for disks and pads for about £120 for the front. Dont know what renault prices shall be, but i know it shall be something more than £300 total.
If the cars on 31k with original apds depending how you drive they would probably need chnaging.
Now anyone managed pads to last this long on a quick car is beyond me.
Do the pads and disk yourself its dead easy.
£40 for Renault pads
£60 for disk
£10 for some decient fluid then either £20 for a bleeding kit or £30 at a local garage to bleed the brakes.
If that doesn't fix it then get it to Renault.
 
172/182/Trophy/Cup front brakes are all the same the 182 pads are slightly different though as they have chamfers on them but there retrofittable.
 
  Shhh
Shall never ever work on me brakes on anything, its the only thing i shall need in an emergency so not wanna risk the chance of them failing due to my inexperience.

I assume its on its first set as i got the car on 12k, and ive done 18k since december 04, tho mainly motorway miles.

Anyone around lincoln do brakes on here..?
 
AliasOmega said:
Shall never ever work on me brakes on anything, its the only thing i shall need in an emergency so not wanna risk the chance of them failing due to my inexperience.

Anyone around lincoln do brakes on here..?
Unfortunatly I don't know anyone over your way who does them a local garage cna do them though it only takes 40 minutes to do pads then say 20 to do the bleeding (I'd definatly recomend you do) and maybe another 15 to swop the disks (assuming you need new disks).
Arr right if you do motorway miles the brkes don't get much use.

Theres a guide on the foum if you want to give it a try though.
 
spoke to renault today..

he said the reason my brakes could be poor is because i have 'competition' pads in (ds2500's) and they need to warm up etc.
he said they will have a quick look at it next time im in (as i need to pick up my sat nav gps receiver that i left in my courtesy car)

so im going to just bite the bullet, buy soem genuine discs and pads, fit them, if the brakes are crap. take it in to get fixed, then they have no excuses..

then when theyre working spot on again, put the ds2500's back in.
 
  E91 M Sport
Nooo! The DS2500's work perfectly from cold - don't let them fob you off with this. Some race pads (DS3000 I think?) work better when hot, but not the 2500's.

Good luck in your quest, let us know how it goes.
 
further update on the brakes, or lack off .lol. as you know got the car back from renault saturday and have drove app 40 miles , coming home from work tonight and was aproaching a bad bend which there is always a car parked on , i was doing 25 mph, saw another car coming and hit the brakes and hey presto , nowt , had to swerve to avoid hitting the parked car and lucky for me the astra coming the other way had brakes that worked , had to appologies to the driver and explaine that my go faster car had defective brakes ,
reading the posts on here and other forums there is obviously a problem with the 182 brakes , is it going to take someone being killed or hurt for renault to admit there is a problem , most of you guys have notice there is a problem and resorted to fitting after market pads and disks to try and resolve it . perhaps a letter to the friendly bbc watchdog might make renault situp and take notice . lol
thanks again guys brian
 
  BMW M3
Yeah.. it is worrying that there seems to be alot of 182s with brake probs compared to the other clios and even all the other cars i have driven.
Mine is in the garage tomorrow and will probably get told by renault that its somehow my fault and the car is fine, to which i will respond " Get te f*ck, i'm the one who drives it, not you.... there is a bloo*y problem with the brakes"

The last couple of days i have been having to take it really easy as i have no confidence in them. They always seem to screw up the time you need them to perform best and it feels like youve got the handbrake on when your actually standing on the middle pedel.

Recieved my DS2500s of YozzaSport today so will stick them in after the cars been to renault, with some super dot 4.

And if the cars still not up to scratch, i will will be going the whole way (renault Uk etc...) to get them fixed as its the one thing on a car that must really work properly.

As you say, the amount of brake problems on 182s on this forum alone are all really similar so it is like there is so sort of issue requiring recalls or something.
 
GuyS said:
my local dealer said he's never come across a 182 with any braking problems..

hmm.
Some dealers also they've nveer had nay problems with the seat belt wiring setting off the airbag warning lights.
Thats what you get if you employee either idiots, compulsive liers or people for a week before they leave.
 
cars back with the dealers and the service manager has swaped me cars i got his 182 he got mine ,he is going to drive it for a while i hope the brakes fail on him and he smashes it lol . thats bad i know lol. , i must admit the car is like chalk and chees , mine is a bucket of shite compared to his , his engine and gearstick dont jump about the car like mine does , his has done just over 5000 miles mine has done 10000
 
  BMW M3
*BRAKE UPDATE*

Right, got car back today from renault and guess what.... things didnt quite go to plan.

1. Got call this morning saying courtesy car is not there yet. So i phone up 30mins later and the guy says it is now. I turn up but the car isnt there. I was meant to get SM55 UZO but the car that is there is SM55 UZL !!!!
So lots of probs with insurance cover note etc....

2. Foglights.... wiring fault: rebook for parts!!!

3. "My horn sometimes doesnt work"..... but if it works when its in the garage, they seem to think its OK !!!! WTF !!

4. They replaced my brake fluid with some super dot 4 that i supplied but said they couldnt fit the DS2500's as they would not fit. I explained that a couple mm's need to come off but they refused due to touch them for warrenty reasons ( i could sue if goes wrong etc...)
They then tried to charge me £200 + for taking pads off/on/ off/on etc.... but i went mental at them as they didnt follow my istructions so got that bill canceled.

5. One of the machanics tried to pinch 1lt of £10 brake fluid that i had in the car but i demanded they find it or refund me..... they found it. lol

Conclusion: Brakes still feel pretty hard compared to the courtesy car but i think they work better. Got the ABS to kick in but it is wet outside so not too sure....tried a couple of emergency stops and they car came to a hault pretty quick but no ABS even when pushing quite hard... is this normal.

One positve note: appreciate the performance of the 182 as had the 1.2 all day. I forgot just how quick the car is. 1.2 much easier to drive and smoother though...

Anyone now how i go about grinding the mm's off the ds2500's as i will prob just fit them myself and read that "Sticky"?

Thanks guys

Justin
 
  E91 M Sport
Justin, sounds like you've had the 'Renault experience', lol.

If you stamp on the brakes at almost any speed in any conditions, the ABS should kick in.

To fit the DS2500's, just file off the edge that sits against the caliper. Once you get the caliper flipped open you'll see what I mean. Its very easy and it shouldn't take long. Btw, most people who do this rip off the metal anti-rattle thing that sits there, it makes it easier and doesn't have any side-effects.
 

MRBILLYUK

ClioSport Club Member
  FF Jeden Osiem Dwa
I can't believe all the problems people are having with their brakes on 182's . My mk2 172 is still on its original fluid , second set of pads and discs at 48,000 miles . I've never been keen on abs anyway , its got me into more trouble than its got me out of . Only problem i had was 2 months ago when it failed its mot on brake imbalance , but that was AA Nationwide Autocentre trying to pull a fast one , after fitting new brakes and making a few £££'s out of me . Stripped em down and there was f*ck all wrong with em .Passed the mot second time.

Check that the pads are moving freely in the brake pad carrier , if they aren't file a little bit off the ends , a couple of mm or so . While you have the carrier off the caliper , crack open the bleed nipple and see if you can push the piston in with your thumbs , if you can't then maybe its rusting up inside .
Theres not alot you can do if they are badly rusted inside as they are machined surfaces made to a tight tolerance . You could try taking out the piston and applying a thin smear of copper grease to the piston .Also check that the sliders , the ones with the little rubber gators on are moving so its putting even pressure on each pad You could try putting a little bit of grease in there ( cv joint grease would be fine ).

I wouldn't take off the anti rattle springs , if you didn't need em they wouldn't put em on . They do actually stop the pads from rattling .

One thing i have noticed on the back brakes is the handbrake adjuster screw can rust , probably why alot of cars seem to have problems with the brakes feeling like they have seized on when you jump in you car first thing in the morning . Bit of a b*stard job to sort out if you do strip em down cos there are 5 sprung washers inside the caliper and andits a nightmare trying to compress the springs to get the handbrake operating lever back into the caliper .Lots of patience , swearing , fags n brews ,lol ;)

MrBillyUK !
 
  RenaultSport clio 172 mk2
You really need to take the renault mechanic out for a test drive and reproduce the brake problem if you fly over a junction because the brakes aren't working Im sure he will get the picture! lol

Are the brake consistantly bad or do they just fail from time to time??
 
  clio 182 black /gold
Mine are poor also.I drove a megane and stood up like normal to slow a couple of mph and i nearly head butted the bonnet. Mine falled and took it back in and the receptionist said did you not pump the brakes? Er no it is a new sports car not my old 1979 mini. They checked it out and nothing wrong with them
 
  ST
Are you guys letting the brakes heat up a little before expecting them to perform as they should, due to the temp outside it takes the brakes a little bit longer to get to their operating temp.
 
tempreture of the pads shouldn't make any difference unless they are red hot .lol. mr billy , we are talking about cars that are just over a year old or just under so rust on the pistons shouldn't be a problem , the problems not there all the time either it's very tempremental , i find it tends to do it at low speeds . I.E. 30- 40 mph . or it might be i'm just noticing it more at that speed , i feel sorry for the mechanics coz they are trying to find a fault thats intermitant , if it was anything other than the brakes most ppl would probably just ignore it , but when it comes to brown pant moments it's not something you can forget .lol. will keep you all posted when the garage gets back to me .cheers guys , brian
 
  BMW M3
Well, basically the trip to the garage was a waste of time as i expected. I dont suppose that they can find a intermitant fault with the brakes if they are not driving it and wont replace things willy nilly under warrenty.

I might go out now to test the ABS as its dry, but as someone made a valid point; i shouldnt compare it to the 1.2 courtesy car as i would presume they are more brake assisted. So need to push alot harder maybe...

Next week, once my personal life is less hectic. I'm going to change the pads to the ferodo ones myself and generally check things are ok.. and mess about with the horn as that too sometimes doesnt work and is now generally weak sounding. anyone have any ideas or where i could get a replacement.

1 more thing:

Anyone know how to remove the wheel arch lining as i can seem to get passed these rubber rivet things?.... can get one side off with torx though.
 
  BMW M3
Thanks mike, Wasnt sure how much pressure was required to move them or if they are meant to move at all, but will def open a can of woop ass on them next week. lol

Just been out for a little brake testing session and strangely they seem to be very good; better then usual. Have only just flushed the system through with some casterol super "R something" Dot 4 and not put the new pads in yet.

Was on quiet, newly surfaced smooth road and performed some emergance stops from 40 & 30 etc... 1st go tried to brake really hard with as little as poss of ABS and only got a couple vibrations. Then purposly tried for the ABS and it was like a foot massage lol.....so might have just needed bleeding maybe.

Time will only tell if they are working ok now..

Still putting the DS2500s in though...
 
further update for you guys , garage called tonight and admited there is a fault with my brakes . they have had it the last three days and admit that the car doesn't want to stop at low speeds , just like i told them . lol . they have fitted a new abs switch on the pedal and adjusted the traction control switch , fitted new disks and pads (all under waranty i might add ) , they are convinced they will have cured the problem but time will tell . pick the car up tomorrow .
thanks again guys for all the posts and all you other guys who are having the same problem tell them what my dealer has done . brian
 
been thinking.. could this be the reason for my brakes being crap in general..


with standard pads and discs, they left a kind of 'lip' on the outer of the disc which was just like a rusty mess where the pads didnt touch? (see fig a - side crosssectional view.)

anyway, when i fitted the ds2500's they seemed to just sit flush with this lip? i.e. covering more of the discs surface area than the old pads. would this lip cause the pads to go like fig B?

or would the lip just wear the brake pad compound down more so it sits as per fig C ?


oh, just looked and that 'lip' seems a bit shinier now (than when it was on standard pads) like it has been in contact with the brake pad which im pretty sure it has been, and the lip seems less deep on the passenger side disc?
 

Attachments

  • brakedwg.JPG
    brakedwg.JPG
    7.6 KB · Views: 72
Last edited:
  E91 M Sport
Guy, if the DS2500 is touching that lip, it will seriously effect braking performance. The easiest fix is to have the brake disc very lightly skimmed which will rid you of this.
 
miketheman2k said:
Guy, if the DS2500 is touching that lip, it will seriously effect braking performance. The easiest fix is to have the brake disc very lightly skimmed which will rid you of this.

or new discs wont have the 'lip' ??

did the very edge of the friction pad bit of your ds2500's sit 'on' that lip??
so it sat flush with the disc?
 
  Lionel Richie
sounds servo related IMO, new discs and pads should feel NEW and stop you, if your pedal is going to the floor (more than 30mm of travel IMO is too much)
 
  182>FRS>VX220 now 350Z
Mine work fine, although i spent AGES!! cleaning the calipers up before fitting the ds2500's. The PF pads pretty much welded bit of themselves all over the place lol
 
  182 Trophy
GuyS said:
or new discs wont have the 'lip' ??

did the very edge of the friction pad bit of your ds2500's sit 'on' that lip??
so it sat flush with the disc?

A couple of things on this topic:

Breifly on lipped discs, if your disc has an obvious lip, measure its thickness to make sure it is not worn to its limit. I don't know renaults very well, but if the minimum thickness is not engraved or stamped on the disc itself, a Renault dealer WILL be able to tell you, ask to speak to the foreman or master tech. If they are not worn to excess, fitting pads onto a slightly lipped disc will not be a problem. The pedal will fell spongy for 5-10 miles as the disc wears the very edge of the pads to the contour of the disc. No problem here.

Regarding problems with the 182 brakes (not breaks:rolleyes: ;) ); Having read the symptoms people are describing, it sounds to me like a servo problem, more specifically a lack of vacuum in the servo. Am i right in saying the pedal does not move a great distance, and despite how hard you push, the car does not slow down as you would expect from that level of pedal force?
If so, I would be looking at the servo, vacuum lines, one way or control valve, seals and connections. Also, (it's unlikely because the problem is intermmitant), I would be looking for evidence of petrol or oil, or even brake fluid in the vacuum system or in the servo itself, as any of these can damage the diaphragm.
As matter of course, i would remove the caliper and check the piston for ease of movement, and check the sliding pins for dirt or grit ingress, ease of movement, give them a good clean and regrease. This way you know you can eliminate the caliper as a problem.

I would bet 1000-1 against the discs or pads being the cause of the problem.

Ferodo DS2500 pads are excellent pads, i ran them for about 30k in a Nissan 200sx including several trackdays and do not have a bad word to say about them. They do not need time to warm up. Unfortunately if your Renault dealer told you this, he is trying to get out of the situation because he does not know what is wrong with your car.

Finally, regarding the dealers, and this is coming from a former main dealer technician; I would be firm but polite, state that there is a problem with your car otherwise why would you waste your time going back so often? Tell them you will leave your car with them for as long as they need it to find the problem, tell them you wish to have a courtesy car free of charge (if you have been back several times, and your car is in warranty) for the duration. Tell them you are not happy using the car anymore as it is a serious safety issue which could, and probably will cause an accident. Smile and be nice, the worse thing you can do is piss them off, because then they really won't give a sh1t about you or your car. When you have left your car with them phone them every 3-4 days, and ask to speak to the person with whom you booked it in with everytime you call.
If they refuse this, and you bought the car from the dealer you have taken it to, demand to speak the the dealer principle and tell him or her you wish to have a full refund on the car; you are not happy with it or the service you are receiving from the dealer etc etc. This WORKS!

Hope i'm not teaching any of you guys how to suck eggs, but just want to help you get your cars sorted! Sorry if i am!:eek:

Nick.
 
  BMW M3
Thanks for you much appriciated advice nick.

Ive always had trouble with my garage as their attitude is rubbish but last time i was there i was alot more demanding but yet stayed polite etc.. and suddenly they started to care alot more when it was clear i was not happy lol.. So it does work.

They did say the servo was fine and said my problem was prob air in the system... bled the system and so far so good but time will tell.
 
  E91 M Sport
Before I changed my pads, my servo was changed and it didn't improve things, but I suspect that perhaps they didn't re-bleed the system properly and left air in the system.
 
good post there nick , i'm like you and not convinced that the problem was the pads and disks but, i picked the car up this morning and so far the brakes have been perfect , i've not really pushed the car so i can bed them in a bit .
the pedal feels like it should feel and it stops the car with the slightest of touches on the pedal , what i did notice was most of the times my brakes were failing was at low speeds I.E . between 20 and 40 mph , i think it's just the weather has been quite bad and the roads are greasy so just taking my time in and around the town ,i was thinking it could be the master cylinder , one of the seals bypassing , but time will tell , as for the dealer i must admit the dealer i use is quite good , i know a lot of ppl have knightmares with the dealers but i cant fault mine , well appart from the service manager who is full of bull .lol.
if anything else happens wit hthe brakes will let you guys know , thanks agai n . brian
 
nick_b said:
A couple of things on this topic:

Breifly on lipped discs, if your disc has an obvious lip, measure its thickness to make sure it is not worn to its limit. I don't know renaults very well, but if the minimum thickness is not engraved or stamped on the disc itself, a Renault dealer WILL be able to tell you, ask to speak to the foreman or master tech. If they are not worn to excess, fitting pads onto a slightly lipped disc will not be a problem. The pedal will fell spongy for 5-10 miles as the disc wears the very edge of the pads to the contour of the disc. No problem here.

so it will go like my 'figure C' then??

Regarding problems with the 182 brakes (not breaks:rolleyes: ;) ); Having read the symptoms people are describing, it sounds to me like a servo problem, more specifically a lack of vacuum in the servo. Am i right in saying the pedal does not move a great distance, and despite how hard you push, the car does not slow down as you would expect from that level of pedal force?
If so, I would be looking at the servo, vacuum lines, one way or control valve, seals and connections. Also, (it's unlikely because the problem is intermmitant), I would be looking for evidence of petrol or oil, or even brake fluid in the vacuum system or in the servo itself, as any of these can damage the diaphragm.
As matter of course, i would remove the caliper and check the piston for ease of movement, and check the sliding pins for dirt or grit ingress, ease of movement, give them a good clean and regrease. This way you know you can eliminate the caliper as a problem.

my pedal will move all the way to the floor

I would bet 1000-1 against the discs or pads being the cause of the problem.

Ferodo DS2500 pads are excellent pads, i ran them for about 30k in a Nissan 200sx including several trackdays and do not have a bad word to say about them. They do not need time to warm up. Unfortunately if your Renault dealer told you this, he is trying to get out of the situation because he does not know what is wrong with your car.

i do have my old standard pads lying around (did about 18k miles on them), should i put these backin or leave the ds2500s in?? i know the ds2500s havent caused the problem as the brakes were dengerously crap, hence why i fitted the pads! the pads seemed to bit good for all of 2 days after i fitted them. but i think maybe they were just covering the problem.

Finally, regarding the dealers, and this is coming from a former main dealer technician; I would be firm but polite, state that there is a problem with your car otherwise why would you waste your time going back so often? Tell them you will leave your car with them for as long as they need it to find the problem, tell them you wish to have a courtesy car free of charge (if you have been back several times, and your car is in warranty) for the duration. Tell them you are not happy using the car anymore as it is a serious safety issue which could, and probably will cause an accident. Smile and be nice, the worse thing you can do is piss them off, because then they really won't give a sh1t about you or your car. When you have left your car with them phone them every 3-4 days, and ask to speak to the person with whom you booked it in with everytime you call.
If they refuse this, and you bought the car from the dealer you have taken it to, demand to speak the the dealer principle and tell him or her you wish to have a full refund on the car; you are not happy with it or the service you are receiving from the dealer etc etc. This WORKS!

Hope i'm not teaching any of you guys how to suck eggs, but just want to help you get your cars sorted! Sorry if i am!:eek:

Nick.

.
 
  182 Trophy
GuyS, yeah, the pads will go like your fig c.

If your pedal goes to the floor, then i think there may be different faults with different cars here. As brian182 says, it could well be the master cylinder.

I would leave the ds2500s in, unless renault insist you put the originals back in until they find a definitive fault.

Quite strange this one, will read future updates with interest.
Nick.
 


Top