197/200 CAF

[Space Cadet]

Has any with a 197 or 200 run a CAF from the passenger side fog-lamp to the acoustic valve?

I’ve disconnected and plugged the vacuum hose to the valve actuator so it is permanently open. It just seems a strange location for the valve as it must just suck up hot-air.

Was thinking about running a CAF from the fog-lamp surround, or similar, to the acoustic valve.

 

[ben_r1]

The main air feed comes from the front bumper via the pipe that runs in front of the engine and down to the left had side of the airbox.

The valve your talking about senses vacuum in the manifold and opens up to allow additional air to get in. Auxillary air feed if you like.

But no havent seen anybody bother with a CAF for it.

 

[Space Cadet]

The valve closes once a vacuum is made in the inlet manifold when the engine is under load so as to quieten the induction nose for some silly Euro regulation. By disconnecting and blocking the vacuum pipe the valve remains permanently open. Side effect is a little more induction noise under load, but more air to the throttle-body when under load.

I was commenting on what appears to be a daft position for the acoustic valve, and therefore would be worth connecting a CAF to the open end so a) it doesn’t suck up hot air and b) I might actually get more air into it if fed from say the fog-lamp surround.

 

[Dan R]

It wont make any difference!

 

[Space Cadet]

It wont make any difference!

Thanks, but 5 word-answers not that useful.

Why wouldn’t it?

 

[Dan R]

Thanks, but 5 word-answers not that useful.

Why wouldn’t it?

Cos it just wont. U may get a hp max for all the amount of work thats involved. Just leave it as it is. Theres alot to be said for a standard airbox etc that renault have spent an absolute fortune designing.
All im saying imo is that i wouldnt waste your time for the gain it will actually give you.

 

[ben_r1]

Your slightly confused with the acoustic valve and aux air inlet.

Its still protected from engine bay temps by the battery and other items, that area of the engine bay isnt that hot anyway.

And from personal experience from another site anybody who has tried tampering with that inlet has experienced performance issues/potential engine damage from running too lean.

 

[Space Cadet]

Noted and agreed. I’ve always advised others not to fit Induction-kits, but to keep the standard air-box and just replace the filter.

Which I’ve done with the 200, its just that the acoustic valve is in such an illogical place and almost seems backwards in its operation, in that it closes when the engine is under load when the car is accelerating and therefore getting more cold-air through the grill and under the bonnet - but remains open when pootling about when there is less cold air getting under the bonnet and closes when there is??!!

It won’t take long or cost much to run a CAF from the flog-lamp surround to the open-end of the valve.


To clarify, I’m only referring to the acoustic valve, not an aux air inlet (which I didn’t know there was one (where is it?)

 

[ben_r1]

Try it and find out mate, if you make a gain then you'll be famous lol

Someones always gotta be the first to try something.

 

[Space Cadet]

I don’t believe one minute I’ll make a gain, that’s not my aim - but want to minimise the amount of hot air the valve is sucking up.

 

[Dan R]

I don’t believe one minute I’ll make a gain, that’s not my aim - but want to minimise the amount of hot air the valve is sucking up.

Why worry about it then? Renault will have spent a fortune getting it right and if u know there is going to be no gain then spend your time doing something else like drving it!

 

[Space Cadet]

....its just fun tinkering with them is’nt it.

I’ll take a look at the weekend and report back.

 

[Dan R]

....its just fun tinkering with them is’nt it.

I’ll take a look at the weekend and report back.

U have a nice car, just leave it...... unless what ur doing is actually going to make a big improvement!