ABS ESP and SERV lights problem.

[Danny wood]

Jb21, yes if you have a failed sensor it will disable your abs system and light up on the dash. As far as I'm aware if your abs lights stay on when you turn the ignition it's either a sensor fault or a supply fault (like I had). If it comes on after moving the wheel it's usually the steering angle sensor. If it is off when you turn the ignition on and then comes on when moving this is either a abs ring fault (cracked, got grease or a stone in it or a tooth missing) the rings can be replaced and I believe they are about 10 quid a pair online

I have the same problem esp abs light is on from turning the ignition on. Replaced all sensors, disks and pads and abs rings on the front.

When the garage done a dignostics test on it it came up with the fault 5020 does anyone know what this fault is?

I am yet to try testing for power to all sensors tomorrow after reading the hole form.

Just just after a friendly advice before wasting anymore of my time with the car.

It makes it harder that the car has no mot now as they wont pass it with the abs light on

 

[RichieJA]

5020 is an interruption fault, most likely a wire or plug fault if u replaced the sensors and rings

 

[Danny wood]

Thanks a lot Richie, This will be another day of trying to get too the bottom of this problem

 

[Danny wood]

Still having problems with abs light not going out.

Does any one have any solutions on this as I don't really know much about the abs system apart from it's not working

 

[loggyboy]

Will probably need a rest from a decent OBD2 module or clip.

 

[dane0]

As loggyboy said your best bet is get it plugged in and then spin each wheel individually and read the speed sensors and this should then give you the faulty corner of your car as 3 speed sensors will change and one shouldn't. You then make your life 4 times easier as you only have to focus on one part. I'd definitely check the loom by the subframe which runs to the rear 2 sensors as they commonly corrode at the loom connection and once disturbed they are near on impossible to get working once the connections have moved slightly.

 

[Danny wood]

As loggyboy said your best bet is get it plugged in and then spin each wheel individually and read the speed sensors and this should then give you the faulty corner of your car as 3 speed sensors will change and one shouldn't. You then make your life 4 times easier as you only have to focus on one part. I'd definitely check the loom by the subframe which runs to the rear 2 sensors as they commonly corrode at the loom connection and once disturbed they are near on impossible to get working once the connections have moved slightly.

I have had reading from all sensors on the car and have checked the loom and that all seems fine from there.

For a minute it's just the abs light on and then when you start it up the Tc some on straight away.

As you need the abs light to come on and off for an MOT am stuck to get it too pass, is there anyway that you know to bypass the Abs so it will pass it's MOT so I can atleast drive to a proper garage to get a better machine

 

[dane0]

As far as I'm aware you can use a resistor to trick it but I wouldn't know how to go about it. There's different size abs rings for the front drive shafts are you 100% sure you got the exact ones for your car? I believe there are 3 types. Off the top of my head you have a 26 tooth and a 43 tooth, and also one about 5mm wide and one about 17mm wide. The numbers are rough but close if not correct and will definitely throw a fault if they are the wrong ones. If you still have the old ones check to see if they match as when I ordered mine the company told me there is only one type and issued me the wrong ones?

 

[Danny wood]

Car went on a better machine today, as was said 3 wheels showed a reading wich was 316 kmh when it was sitting still.

The last sensor froze the machine so had to turn it off. Tried another machine and it said the same thing.

Right rear sensor was away it says but the engineer could not confirm because as soon as it got to checking anything to do with it it froze.

Any solutions with out buying another sensor again because it's getting abit pricy now

 

[dane0]

The machine I used was a snap on and it read between 302-326 still but that was resistance not km/h? Not saying he's wrong but the numbers are obviously similar to mine, any chance he could have read it wrong? I may be well off here all equipment can be completely different in the way they read things. If possible try and plug it in while its in the air and get someone to read the readings while wiggling the loom underneath and spin each wheel individually during so. Mine showed no fault at all until I did this after 2 months of headache

 

[Danny wood]

The machine I used was a snap on and it read between 302-326 still but that was resistance not km/h? Not saying he's wrong but the numbers are obviously similar to mine, any chance he could have read it wrong? I may be well off here all equipment can be completely different in the way they read things. If possible try and plug it in while its in the air and get someone to read the readings while wiggling the loom underneath and spin each wheel individually during so. Mine showed no fault at all until I did this after 2 months of headache

He could have said to me it was km when it's intact ohm's. I would like to see if I could get it all in the air but he is pricy and is good at charging you even know he told me what I already know.
Yeah I double check everything before buying and fitting to make sure they are the right ones for my 182,

I had the same problem with my RS for parts.

This car was meant to be my weekend run around, now it seems to be my weekend project. Haha

Going back to Renault tomorrow to get another sensor to see if it is that one even know they are brand new from Renault.

i will have another try tomorrow at checking all the little bits and bobs again and call this guy out again for a lend of his machine for another £50 charge

Cheers for your help. If anyone knows any hidden little tips wiring diagrams anything at all to help me out I would aprisiate it

 

[dane0]

Where do you live? I wasn't charged to have mine done unless he could point out the problem which is what they should do. He hasn't fixed or given you the problem so he shouldn't have charged you as he's not actually done anything but plug it in. As for the wiring diagram I couldn't resist find one.
From the back you can follow each sensor to just behind the rear axle and they both run up the chassis alongside the sensor on the axle. They go into a loom right in the centre of the car. The lambda also go into this. This then goes up into the abs pump which covers the rear 2 wheels only and I'm not sure about the front but it would in my opinion go straight to the loom. If you can get hold of a tool to measure resistance I'd plug into each sensors circuit and put something metal in front of each sensor a few times and the readings should change. Cheaper way than paying those fees again and it will identify if there's any power to the sensors.

 

[Danny wood]

Where do you live? I wasn't charged to have mine done unless he could point out the problem which is what they should do. He hasn't fixed or given you the problem so he shouldn't have charged you as he's not actually done anything but plug it in. As for the wiring diagram I couldn't resist find one.
From the back you can follow each sensor to just behind the rear axle and they both run up the chassis alongside the sensor on the axle. They go into a loom right in the centre of the car. The lambda also go into this. This then goes up into the abs pump which covers the rear 2 wheels only and I'm not sure about the front but it would in my opinion go straight to the loom. If you can get hold of a tool to measure resistance I'd plug into each sensors circuit and put something metal in front of each sensor a few times and the readings should change. Cheaper way than paying those fees again and it will identify if there's any power to the sensors.

Roger that mate,

I live in the middle of no where in the Scottish Borders so the guy had to travel so that's what he would have been wanting money for more than anything. As the car is not on the road and can't take too them.
The sensors are brand new one the back so I can one for one swap it. So that's not too bad.

I will buy a resistance meter as mine all don't have Ohm resistance setting.

i have seen the rear sensors and the wires going into the harnes and followed them all the way to the ABS block it's self.

Good idea with the metal but I will use a valve clearer tomorrow and try too.

Thanks for all your help I will soon be back on here for more ideas from everyone if this does not sort my problem out.

 

[dane0]

Yeah I had a right headache and no proper knowledge of this as I've never played with an abs system before. It's not too complicated once you get your head around it.
There was a thread somewhere on here about what the resistance should be. If you can't find it try all 4 and 3 are likely to be the same and go from there. When you teat it make sure the engine is running! I spent God knows how many hours thinking I had a big problem as I had no power down to the sensors but obviously the cables need to be live
We tested mine with a metal ruler and worked good as it's thin enough to squeeze in between without getting the sensor off.
If you do find a fault rear sensor please check that loom by the subframe and don't overlook it lol. Even get some wire and stick it in either side and bypass the block to make sure if you can't determine it. That's how I eventually sorted mine. Good luck buddy

 

[rollingjones]

Hi guys what did this end up being in the end, I have the exact same symptoms and struggling to sort it.

 

[loggyboy]

Sadly never fixed mine. Was like it till the end of it's useful life!

 

[rollingjones]

Sadly never fixed mine. Was like it till the end of it's useful life!

Annoying, need to sort mine to get it through MOT

 

[dane0]

Hi guys what did this end up being in the end, I have the exact same symptoms and struggling to sort it.

As someone mentioned earlier underneath there's a plug by the subframe triangle right in the centre and it runs down to the rear 2 sensors, this was corroded but looked ok. Got it up on live data and I wiggled the plug while someone span the wheel and it was like it was being connected/disconnected. I tapped into the wires and bypassed the plug and the problem went away. It's easy to find as one of the lambda go into it so follow one of those to the rear of the subframe at the front, centre of the car and that was my problem. It could also be a brake pedal switch or poor earthing on the rear lights which can make the fig light come up on the dash when braking which will also flag up the abs fault sometimes

 

[rollingjones]

As someone mentioned earlier underneath there's a plug by the subframe triangle right in the centre and it runs down to the rear 2 sensors, this was corroded but looked ok. Got it up on live data and I wiggled the plug while someone span the wheel and it was like it was being connected/disconnected. I tapped into the wires and bypassed the plug and the problem went away. It's easy to find as one of the lambda go into it so follow one of those to the rear of the subframe at the front, centre of the car and that was my problem. It could also be a brake pedal switch or poor earthing on the rear lights which can make the fig light come up on the dash when braking which will also flag up the abs fault sometimes

Cheers for that, I’ll have a look at the wiring next weekend..checked the brake switch and that was fine, I adjusted it slightly. Never noticed the fog light come on while braking but worth checking anyway.

 

[Godsense]

Mine ended up being due to a faulty ABS sensor on the front off side.
Diagnosed by getting a local Renault specialist to put it on the Clip