ABS Wiring alterations.

[Kelv]

Quick question for those that have converted a formerly ABS equipped car to run non ABS.

how far back have you taken the relevant wiring loom, it seems to have its own loom that disappears up into the fuse/relay box passenger side of the engine bay, does this loom come to a point where it can be removed, or is a little fettling required at some point?

​Cheers

 

[Carbonraider]

Hmm don't quote me on this. But are you planning on doing this abs removal to the trophy. If so I don't know what your opinion on this is but if you remove the abs system and all of its parts im pretty positive you'll loose speedo, eps and cruise etc.

 

[M4D M4X]

Good luck with what you are about to do i gave up and decided to bin the whole lot (interior/engine/ecu/uch) and go with a omex race loom instead,
the problem you face is that some of the wires go to the relay box but others come from the same relay to go elsewhere so acting as a loop.
Not to mention that the interior bulkhead connection has wires leading off to other things such as throttle/obd port/clocks/ and then into the uch, as soon as you remove the abs you will lose your speedo so will need to buy a speed sensor and figure out how to connect it to the current can bus system.

 

[Kelv]

How have others done it then?
​left the ABS module in place and everything still plugged in but running he new lines from a cup master cylinder instead?

 

[BIGASH]

Do you actually need a speedo or cruise control though mate? I never look at a speedo on track, just depends if you are ever wanting to put it back on the road.

 

[Kelv]

Cruise and associated items are far from needed (and tbh I'm not sure what EPS is).
I think I've mentioned before James that the car is never likely to see a road again, its already beyond that stage as it is.
speedo I'm not worried about in the slightest, its not anything I look at when on track, but a rev counter will be handy to retain.

i know it may well be a Trophy and mean a lot to some people because of what it is, but for me it really was just a cheap clio to pull apart for trackday purposes.

 

[M4D M4X]

Ain't yoy doing the lightweight thing also kelv?

I wanted mine lightweight but still road legal, so my options was keep it and have the heavy system or re-do the whole lot and remove some extra kg's.

In the end i decided bin the lot upgrade the master cylinder (806 van).
Run my own lines through out the car but rear has a adjustable bias valve in place to act as the load sensor, as for the speedo i bought a race technology "hall effect" type to fit into the abs sensor hole on the hub for my race technology dash 2.

I'm not sure if the speedo sensor will work with the current canbus system though but i'm sure someone else can confirm this.

 

[Kelv]

It's not the fitting of the master cylinder, lines or rear bias setup that worries me at this stage, its just the wiring issues that could be encountered by removing the loom for it all, as much as I want to change this setup over I don't want to then be beaten by a car that won't start or run from wrong sections having been removed.

how have you conquered that Max?

as time goes on it will have a new dash anyhow (or atleast highly likely) so that will run its own wheel speed sensor anyhow, which will be a task to conquer at the time.

as for lightweight, certainly within reason yes, I haven't committed to the doors at this stage as the current objectives are to tone the braking and suspension so its the best that can be for my driving style and abilities.
lightweight tasks will probably continue over the winter few months.

 

[M4D M4X]

Yes the wiring is defiantly a nightmare, i made a in depth diagram of the standard electrics to re-locate the ecu/relays/fuses inside, but problem is some wires go into the ecu/uch/fuse/relays but not knowing what ecu/uch pins are for inside doesn't help. With this in mind i decided as i'm at the stage i am and don't want to mess about with the car again (3rd time) so i'll do it all now.

For the electrics i'm ditching the whole lot and starting again keeping the engine side separate from lights, engine side i'll be running omex 600 using their "race loom" also adding a few wires to control the cam timing and other things that's needed.
For the lights i'll have this re-done from scratch but have the fuses/relays and switch panel inside the car on my home made dash/centre console.

My advise would be leave the loom till very last but have it striped ready, when the car is up and running disconnect and trace wires from the abs socket and see if they are heading to anything important.
Snip a wire at a time and see if it will still start and you still have speedo, if it doesn't then at least you can solder it back together and go to another wire.

Failing that if it doesn't start even when disconnected from the abs pump then your pretty much screwed and would need it plugged in,
however if it does (shouldn't see why not) then just have it tidied up somewhere untill you do the electrics next time.

 

[Nick172Cup]

Wouldn't using a 172 cup wiring loom, ecu, uch etc work if its that complicated?

 

[M4D M4X]

Oh yes just changing the loom over to a cup wouldn't work as the pin locations are different on the ecu/uch to a 182, however changing the ecu/uch and key over wouldn't that ecu setup be to a 172 so worse than a 182?

 

[Kelv]

Isn't a 172 throttle cable driven, or am I mistaken?
​i can see what you are thinking Nick

 

[Nick172Cup]

Fly by wire, just like the 182's mate. Just an option if you still want to delete the ABS.

I have everything apart from the engine loom as that's temp sold.

 

[BIGASH]

Fred put a 172 cup engine loom on mine when he got rid of the ABS worked perfectly

 

[M4D M4X]

I was pretty sure i read something with the ecu pins being different, I know it's a 182 setup to a 172 but assumed it would still be the same visa versa.

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...t-a-172-cup&highlight=172+speedo+loom+fit+182

 

[Kelv]

James, was that literally just the engine bay loom section?
no changes to the ECU, UCH, etc etc?

 

[BIGASH]

Yes from the bulkhead connector, the only thing is mine didn't run a standard ECU but still ran the UCH and it all worked fine

 

[Kelv]

Food for thought, cheers buddy.

 

[len_beach]

Yes from the bulkhead connector, the only thing is mine didn't run a standard ECU but still ran the UCH and it all worked fine

We're you running the speedo at this point James?

 

[BIGASH]

We're you running the speedo at this point James?

No mate, mine runs a GPS speedo from the datalogger but I never look at it

 

[Edges]

So on a road going 182, abs delete would need 172 cup gearbox, engine bay loom and clock set plus all the new lines

 

[Akay]

Bumping this... apologies!

I am breaking a ph1 with speedo sensor drive. I am going to take the speedo sensor and the relevent loom out.

I am looking at binning the abs on my ph2 172 track car.

I have noticed that one of the pins on the ecu connector is speedo signal. Im assuming I could wire the speedo sensor to this pin and the other wire goes to the bulkhead plug?

Would this give me speed signal on the clocks?