If you have level ground its easy. I'll probably get flamed by some of you guys on here, but here goes....
Tools:
Tape measure.
Steel straight edges x 2 (such as 24 inch steel rules)
Elastic bands
laser level (doesnt have to be a known accuracy, just repeatable, mine was 20 quid)
Basics of toe measuring:
Center steering wheel in car.
You use the elastic bands looped around the wheel spokes to hold these steel rules in place fairly tightly. You need to get the rule quite low on the wheel (about 3 inches up). This is so you can run the tape measure under the car. If you have large rim protectors on tyres and they are the same type then you will be plenty accurate. If you are not sure, you could always use something like 4 nuts to space the rule out from the rim, but IMO totally unnecessary for the level of accuracy we all need.
Before you measure the total to you need to ensure that each side is equal. I do this by using the laser level held in a similar way to (but instead of) the steel rules to point a mark toward the rear. It works for me to aim at the ground beside the rear tyre, comparing both sides. It is easy to see if things are straight, and can be measured if needed (but 1 or 2 mm accuracy over that distance is plenty).
To meaure total toe it helps if you have a helper but basically you can pull the tape between the rules to measure the distances, measure once at front and then the back. Pull firm enough to take up slack in the tape but if you pull too hard it can be too much for the elastic bands to hold the rules, obviously. The distance between the front and back (the place on the rule you take measurements from) will most likely be very similar to the wheel diameter, but you can apply simple maths to adjust to suit if you feel the need, although I don't for the level of accuracy needed.
Adjust track rods to alter as desired then re-do the same checks.
It sounds pikey but, believe me, it works fine! I've checked brand new lease vehicles against factory specs and my method has not been less than 0.5mm wrong.
Basics of Camber:
This is not intended to give specific measurement but more to check if things are equal. You can use the rules but on the vertical plane to measure camber with a spirit level. I use the rear as a reference and compare both sides against each other and to that of the rear wheels (which are approx. just a little over 1 deg negative as standard). The main thing to check is that it is the same from side to side.
Altering camber with bolts has a big effect on toe. Adding negative camber gives positive toe, and vice versa. (I have eibach bolts on standard struts). So any changes to this will need you to start from beginning with toe.
One last thing...
Sometimes the steering wheel may have been removed and put back on at a different angle. To check this turn from full locks to see that the steering wheel moves equal amounts both ways.
