Brake Disk Fitting Guide?

[Russ.]

as title, my disks are shafted and in need of replacement, i changed the pads approx 4k ago, but going to change them again now just to make sure i get the best braking performance i can from a standard setup again. so if anyone could take the time to write me a quick guide or link me, it would be greatly appreciated.

thanks, russ

 

[The Bear]

I have a rear disk changing guide if that's any use?

 

[Russ.]

depends how different it is to changing the fronts mate?

 

[Chris1.4RT]

If you can do pads then discs is just as easy really.

Undo the bolt on the back of the caliper as you would to do pads. Take both of the bolts out and remove the caliper. Tie it somewhere so that it is stable and not going to damage the brake line.

The other metal part of the assembly has two bolts also. Remove these and the metal part.

The disc has some small screws holding it on. Forget the big one in the centre. That's for the hub not the brake. You may think how does the little screws keep the disc on but its the fact the disc is sandwiched between the wheel and hub and the wheel bolts go through all three which keep it all together.

Undo these little screws and you should be able to pull the disc off. Gently tap it from behind if it is stubborn.

Refitting is a reverse of removal but make sure all brake bolts are really tight.

 

[Russ.]

cheers chris, what kind of heads are on the screws as i cant remember of the top of my head but sure they looked like an allen key fitment last time i had the wheel of?

ta, russ

 

[Lunner]

will be torx, approx T40 IIRC

No need to replace pads, slightly worn pads will be better than brand spanking new ones anyways

 

[MadRue]

Today I have been trying to do the same, I eventually got as far as taking the two screws out of the disk after going to Halfords 3 times to get the correct tools
My brake disc just wont budge, I have used a hammer and even a sledge hammer to get leverage. Lubricant just doesn't seem to help.
Can you suggest anything that may help the process please?

 

[Russ.]

Today I have been trying to do the same, I eventually got as far as taking the two screws out of the disk after going to Halfords 3 times to get the correct tools
My brake disc just wont budge, I have used a hammer and even a sledge hammer to get leverage. Lubricant just doesn't seem to help.
Can you suggest anything that may help the process please?

one hell of a thread revival mate

i had to give my disks a fair bit of abuse, hitting them from behind, first the left side and then the right, eventually they just fell of lol.

 

[Chris1.4RT]

Today I have been trying to do the same, I eventually got as far as taking the two screws out of the disk after going to Halfords 3 times to get the correct tools
My brake disc just wont budge, I have used a hammer and even a sledge hammer to get leverage. Lubricant just doesn't seem to help.
Can you suggest anything that may help the process please?

one hell of a thread revival mate

i had to give my disks a fair bit of abuse, hitting them from behind, first the left side and then the right, eventually they just fell of lol.

WTF??!!

I posted my post on this thread today and it say higher up 13-05-2006?!!

 

[Russ.]

r u sure? because i remember reading what you said and following it when i changed my disks and pads. :rasp:

 

[Chris1.4RT]

lol I'm going mad...

I posted on this thread about brakes...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=271566


DOH!

 

[Chris1.4RT]

Today I have been trying to do the same, I eventually got as far as taking the two screws out of the disk after going to Halfords 3 times to get the correct tools
My brake disc just wont budge, I have used a hammer and even a sledge hammer to get leverage. Lubricant just doesn't seem to help.
Can you suggest anything that may help the process please?

Make sure the two small screws are out of the disc and it should definetly tap from behind and come off.

 

[Russ.]

lol I'm going mad...

I posted on this thread about brakes...

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=271566


DOH!

lol!!

 

[A13EX F Trophy No70]

dont forget to rub the discs down with spirits or similar before using them this is to remove any greece or oil that may beon them to preven corrosion during storage.

oh and also remember to bed the brakes in dont slam them on hard straight away u'll end up cooking them and maybe even warping them.

 

[MadRue]

Yeah I kinda of did bring this one out of the archives didn't I lol.

Nice tips guys, much appreciated, I totally forgot about cleaning them off before hand.

Just incase anyone is wondering, the screw heads on the discs are Torx T40 heads. Use T30 or T35 and you will mash the head, easy to revive though, just get a knife in the groves and scrape out the metal fillings.
You can guess how I know that one

My discs are completely worn and def need replacing but the current pads are fairly new. I really want to get some new pads on their with the new discs, would it be OK do you think to do this and then put the old (fairly new) pads on after the new pads need replacing?

 

[marco_polo]

Just changed my front stoppers myself. My tip would be to make sure the new pads aren't too tight in the caliper. They shouldn't be too rattley, but should slide in nicely without any effort/tapping. My old inner pads were stuck solid, and not making contact with the discs at all. My new EBC Greens would have done the same if i hadn't lightly filed the edges of the pads, and thoroughly cleaned the calipers to achieve a nice sliding fit. They're absolutely awesome now.

And as Alex F says, cleanliness is key. You want to make sure the hubs and discs are spotless before assembly too.

 

[youngsyp]

I really want to get some new pads on their with the new discs, would it be OK do you think to do this and then put the old (fairly new) pads on after the new pads need replacing?

If you're old pads have plenty of life left in them, then don't bother renewing them.

If you buy any decent aftermarket discs from a reputable manufacturer, they'll recommend 'bedding' the new discs in with old pads.
This will also mean the brakes become fully effective more quickly as, you're only breaking the new discs in and not the discs and pads.

When you bed/run a brake pad in, you're just trying to remove all the gas from them, that occurs due to their heat cycling process and the factory face coating. That's why you should do several stops from 70 to 20 at increasing severity and then from 70 to 0 in increasing severity.

When bedding/running a disc in, you're actually prepping the disc surface by very lightly coating it in the pad material.

Paul

 

[MadRue]

Right ok, I will use the old pads to brake in the new discs. I can then change them over with the new pads when they need to be.
I was worried I had to put new pads on with new discs. As I already have the new pads, I can change them over when ever.

Thanks.

 

[MadRue]

Finally got my Brembo 259MM vented front discs fitted. For the bedding/breaking proceedure I chose to drive around for 10 miles with gentle braking. After this I did six 80 to 10MPH firm braking, making sure I did not use the brakes below 10MPH.
This seemed to be ok but after I drove around for 10 mins to let them cool down and then started the next and final set of six I found a major difference. The braking strength and resistance had greatly increased as expected but, this time when I am slowing to about 30MPH on the way to 10MPH, the brakes judder and clack the remaining 20MPH in slowing.

Any ideas what this may be?
I think I may have shot the old already bedded pads if that is possible.

 

[jayxx83]

Finally got my Brembo 259MM vented front discs fitted. For the bedding/breaking proceedure I chose to drive around for 10 miles with gentle braking. After this I did six 80 to 10MPH firm braking, making sure I did not use the brakes below 10MPH.
This seemed to be ok but after I drove around for 10 mins to let them cool down and then started the next and final set of six I found a major difference. The braking strength and resistance had greatly increased as expected but, this time when I am slowing to about 30MPH on the way to 10MPH, the brakes judder and clack the remaining 20MPH in slowing.

Any ideas what this may be?
I think I may have shot the old already bedded pads if that is possible.

TBH mate I dont think 10 miles of driving is enough to bed your discs into your pads. just drive normally without going spazz for about 200 miles. A bit of urban driving, a few 70-40 with light pressure. I had my pads and discs installed 60 miles ago and they are getting stronger all the time.

I am going to wait till at least 100-150 miles before giving the middle pedal even half pressure. Once Im over the 200-220 mark then try a few hard stops just to get some heat into the material.

By going on what you are saying, if they are juddering, you may have warped them slightly already.

 

[MadRue]

Luckily my discs can't warp under the max temps that they will reach so no worries there.

I am due to do a 200 mile run over the next couple of days, this will hopefully sort out any uneven surfaces. When I get back, i'll let you all know how they are now. Also I plan to fit the new pads when I get back as long as the discs are feeling OK.

Foolishly I followed the Mintex Max racing techniques for bedding in discs and so I fear I have jumped the gun so to speak. Either way I can't see how I could possibly screw up brake disc bedding in, tis the pads I am more worried about :S

 

[edde]

The braking strength and resistance had greatly increased as expected but, this time when I am slowing to about 30MPH on the way to 10MPH, the brakes judder and clack the remaining 20MPH in slowing.

Any ideas what this may be?

By going on what you are saying, if they are juddering, you may have warped them slightly already.

You won't warp them.

Check the pads are sitting right and arn't to worn firstly.

Foolishly I followed the Mintex Max racing techniques for bedding in discs and so I fear I have jumped the gun so to speak. Either way I can't see how I could possibly screw up brake disc bedding in, tis the pads I am more worried about :S

Thats process of bedding in isn't a bad. Idealy depend what pads your running idealy IMO just do the hard braking forget the stoft stuff for 10 miles before giving them stick.

Give them a bot of time to work though the thick coating them have cna take a bit to wear off depdn on compound your using.

 

[MadRue]

that sounds about right mate. On this 200 mile run i just did, the braking has got a lot better, i think they just needed a few more miles put on them, I didn't give them the chance to heat up or cool down this time, just abused them all the way.

Im going to be fitting Mintex Xtreme pads. I beleive the discs are ready now, they look nicely covered now, and so do my alloys hehe.

Any thing you think I should be prepared for or aware of before bedding in the pads?

 

[edde]

that sounds about right mate. On this 200 mile run i just did, the braking has got a lot better, i think they just needed a few more miles put on them, I didn't give them the chance to heat up or cool down this time, just abused them all the way.

Im going to be fitting Mintex Xtreme pads. I beleive the discs are ready now, they look nicely covered now, and so do my alloys hehe.

Any thing you think I should be prepared for or aware of before bedding in the pads?

DOn't bother with the mintex pads IMO there rubish.

Nothing to be careful of though just bed them in hard.