Camber setup

[benhiggs]

Fitted a set of bbs off an old e30 bmer

offset is et24, so lower then usual, lowered the car since also, so much that i have taken chunks out of my tyres at the back, even after raising it a bit im having problems

was gonna get some camber on the back anyway, may as well sort it now before i get the arches rolled

I know i need camber shims for the back, and i know where they go, just wondering how difficult it is fitting them on a non sport and what tools i will need

plus how much would people recommend? i was looking at around negative 1-1.5deg

any ideas how much it will tuck the wheel back at the top?

 

[Chip-mk1]

I swear the education standards in this country are slipping, thats the sort of maths we were doing at 12 when I was a kid.


If you have 0.5 degree currently, and you are going to go to 2 degrees instead, then assuming a distance to the arch of 25 cm its really very very simple mathematically.

sin(angle) = opposite /hypotenuse

so before:
sin(0.5) = tuck / 25cm
so:
tuck = sin (0.5) * 25cm

tuck = 0.0087 * 25 = 2.2mm


Then for after
tuck = sin (2) * 25cm = 0.035 * 25cm = 8.7mm


So swapping from 0.5 degree of negative camber, to 2 degrees of negative camber will give you 6.5mm more clearance (assuming 25cm from wheel centre to the part of the arch that catches, scale accordingly for a more accurate figure)

(ps, that clearance is measured diagonally as I was being lazy, if you wanted to do it spot on you would just draw another triangle but the percentage difference between the diagonal and the horizontal is so slight that when talking about 6mm or so that its not worth taking into account really as it wouldnt be as much as the paint thickness)

 

[benhiggs]

haha i honestly hadnt thought about working it out mathematically

good old SohCahToa

and honestly, im not mathematically challenged, i have taken a maths A level and study physics too!

thanks for this chip

You had experience in fitting shims? if so, was it difficult, or is the difficulty mainly based on how rusty your bolts are and the amount of wd40 you have

 

[NorthloopCup]

Fitting the shims to the rears is simple mate. Caliper off, disc/hub assembly off, then 4 torq head bolts to undo and the stub axle is off. Fit the shims and rebuild in reverse order to what I've written previously.

 

[v16daf]

Fitting the shims to the rears is simple mate. Caliper off, disc/hub assembly off, then 4 torq head bolts to undo and the stub axle is off. Fit the shims and rebuild in reverse order to what I've written previously.

Just got some shims for the cup to get the geo correct. These torq head bolts tight? / round off easily? Or are they relatively loose?

 

[NorthloopCup]

Just got some shims for the cup to get the geo correct. These torq head bolts tight? / round off easily? Or are they relatively loose?

No mate not bad at all. Wd40 is your friend!

 

[v16daf]

No mate not bad at all. Wd40 is your friend!

Was imagining all sort of trouble! Thanks

 

[v16daf]

Just done 1 side. Easy

 

[NorthloopCup]

Just done 1 side. Easy

Told you didn't I!

 

[Chip-mk1]

haha i honestly hadnt thought about working it out mathematically

good old SohCahToa

and honestly, im not mathematically challenged, i have taken a maths A level and study physics too!

Lol, dont worry its not just you mate, its frequently surprising to me how many people forget how useful basic maths is!

 

[MicKPM]

I love that fact Chip... I can charge them for it.

 

[benhiggs]

Correct me if I'm wrong, with camber shims, e.g 5mm ones, they will push the top of the wheel out and pull it in at the same time, so to a certain degree the pull in will be counteracted

I'm only saying this because I can't afford to push the top out anymore and want to get maximum tuck otherwise 1mm means f**k all

 

[Chip-mk1]

Correct me if I'm wrong, with camber shims, e.g 5mm ones, they will push the top of the wheel out and pull it in at the same time, so to a certain degree the pull in will be counteracted

I'm only saying this because I can't afford to push the top out anymore and want to get maximum tuck otherwise 1mm means f**k all

You are correct, but I suspect you havent seen how thin the shims are, its unlikely to be even 1mm.


You do know that on a 182 they have larger spacers as standard built into the stub axle and swapping to a 172 setup would make your rear track width smaller?

 

[benhiggs]

You are correct, but I suspect you havent seen how thin the shims are, its unlikely to be even 1mm.


You do know that on a 182 they have larger spacers as standard built into the stub axle and swapping to a 172 setup would make your rear track width smaller?

I have a non sport so there is minimal track width anyway, I didn't know there was a difference between 172-182 though

I think I'll get some 1.5deg to push the top back in and make it 2deg total, see if it helps me out for a temporary fix until I roll the arches

 

[Chip-mk1]

Sorry mate you were on "posts 182" and I misread it as your car!

Must confess I did wonder why someone was ruining a 182 by chavving it up and no one had yet moaned, but it does seem more commonly accepted on the lower models on here.

 

[ben lee]

Fitted a set of bbs off an old e30 bmer

offset is et24, so lower then usual, lowered the car since also, so much that i have taken chunks out of my tyres at the back, even after raising it a bit im having problems

was gonna get some camber on the back anyway, may as well sort it now before i get the arches rolled

I know i need camber shims for the back, and i know where they go, just wondering how difficult it is fitting them on a non sport and what tools i will need

plus how much would people recommend? i was looking at around negative 1-1.5deg

any ideas how much it will tuck the wheel back at the top?

is it running drum brakes?

on my non-sport ph1 there is a spacer between the back plate and beam you could swap for a smaller one or same size but with some camber to give you more arch clearance.

have you had your geo checked had mine done and mines different each side by 1/2 deg.

will be fitting some shims to mine in the next few days to correct mine will take some photos and can give you a rundown of whats needed ect.

what with tyres are you running if its 205s could drop to 195s to give you more clearance?

 

[benhiggs]

Sorry mate you were on "posts 182" and I misread it as your car!

Must confess I did wonder why someone was ruining a 182 by chavving it up and no one had yet moaned, but it does seem more commonly accepted on the lower models on here.

Haha, its only a temporary fix until i get my arches rolled, but for 15 quid its cheap too

I was gonna dump some washers on them, however everyone moans about doing that

may just raise the rears until i sort the arches then, im having second thoughts about camber

is it running drum brakes?

on my non-sport ph1 there is a spacer between the back plate and beam you could swap for a smaller one or same size but with some camber to give you more arch clearance.

have you had your geo checked had mine done and mines different each side by 1/2 deg.

will be fitting some shims to mine in the next few days to correct mine will take some photos and can give you a rundown of whats needed ect.

what with tyres are you running if its 205s could drop to 195s to give you more clearance?

i havent had my geo checked and cheers man, ill take a look for any built in spacers i could remove to bring the wheels back in a lil bit

and if i got new tyres they would have been stretched abit, but mine were in perfect condition