Camber

[Adamxx]

hi guys, going to be doing a few track days at Snetterton this year, would appreciate some advice on what settings to run? I've seen people run as much as 3 degrees? Car is stripped, new cup shocks and cooksport springs. I have camber bolts for the fronts and will shim the rears if needed.

 

[JB21]

As much as you can on bolts, you'll get -2.5 max. Leave the rears as long as they're negative and fairly equal.

 

[Adamxx]

I've put -2.5 on the fronts, would the rears not benefit?

 

[JB21]

I've put -2.5 on the fronts, would the rears not benefit?

They would mate yeah but it's a ball ache as you have to pull the stub axels off. What did your rears look like? Mine where - 1.5 both sides which I'm happy with.

 

[Adamxx]

They would mate yeah but it's a ball ache as you have to pull the stub axels off. What did your rears look like? Mine where - 1.5 both sides which I'm happy with.

Mines 1.625 one side and 2.25 the other so was going to put a 40 minute shim in one side to make them both about 1.6-1.7

Sound ok?

 

[Jekyll]

Its not that much of a ballache job, if you can be bothered.

Wheels off, caliper carrier off, hub nut off, disc and disc washer off then undo the 4x torx bolts. Fit shim/shims and revers the process, putting the disc washer on correctly and the hub nut to 175nm. I would definitely recommend getting new hub bolts though as yours will definitely be rusted. Most people fit allen head countersink bolts over torx. Have a search on what sizes as i cant remember on length but im pretty sure its 3x 10mm and 1x 8mm bolts per hub.

 

[JB21]

Yep, sounds good.

 

[imprezaworks]

 

[imprezaworks]

Mine has a half degree shim in the rear left.

 

[Adamxx]

Did they not come with -1.5 standard on the front?

 

[STEVE.M]

Its not that much of a ballache job, if you can be bothered.

Wheels off, caliper carrier off, hub nut off, disc and disc washer off then undo the 4x torx bolts. Fit shim/shims and revers the process, putting the disc washer on correctly and the hub nut to 175nm. I would definitely recommend getting new hub bolts though as yours will definitely be rusted. Most people fit allen head countersink bolts over torx. Have a search on what sizes as i cant remember on length but im pretty sure its 3x 10mm and 1x 8mm bolts per hub.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SET-OF-BO...+Sport&hash=item210f490855:g:Ce0AAOSwInxXNFhf

 

[imprezaworks]

Did they not come with -1.5 standard on the front?

Nope. On the rear there abouts.

 

[Adamxx]

Nice one, cheers guys

 

[Jekyll]

I thought the fronts was -1 as standard.

 

[imprezaworks]

That would have been my guess. But then French so could be zero to -3.

 

[Hoofy]

This completely depends on the configuration of your car, as a rule of thumb, the stiffer your car, the more static camber you should run. We have a very stiff setup (470lb/in front) and we run 4 degrees. If you're on a fast road spring (250-300 lb/in), you're probably talking around 2.5 degrees on the front. We usually go a degree less on the rear (another rule of thumb) and that gives us a good balance.

As ever with tyres, drive it, measure the temps across the tyres, look at wear and monitor your pressures, then make adjustments accordingly. If you've got the wrong pressure in your tyres, camber will mean nothing. You want to be running 30 psi (+/- 1) when hot.

 

[JamesBryan]

Did they not come with -1.5 standard on the front?

Just so you know, -1.5 as a decimal degree is actually 1° 30' on a hunter alignment in degrees, minutes and seconds.

If it said 1° 50' on a hunter system, that's actually 1.83° decimal.

Just to confuse you :tonguewink:

 

[Keith185]

Anybody have any experience with different brands of camber bolts giving more -ve camber?

I'm sure my old Eibach ones gave more compared to my current H&R ones.