Carbon cannister EML light removal.

[Jekyll]

I know theres loads of threads on this but nothing clairfies the answer im looking for.

What am I doing wrong to get the light off.

I've removed the cannister completely and remove the pipe from the inlet to the cannister.

The inlet has a pipe going from the back to where the acoustic valve plugs in (acoustic valve is removed) and idles fine.

Like so:

Now I've in plugged the cap and run a resister in plug. No joys. Then I plugged a different resister and still no luck. I've popped the lid back on and no luck. The only pipe that is open is the one from the fuel pipe going to the cannister. This is tucked away under the headlight. I even taped this up and still no luck.

Someone help me turn out this light as I would rather it gone the right way over me taking the dash out and taping over the light!

 

[andyj007]

same problem here, so double up on the question

 

[Jekyll]

Well so far so good....

I must of had the resist not fully in, or light light needed turning off. I fully wrapped the resister to the plug with electrical tape and and then used my code ready (cheap ebay jobbie) to turn the light off.

So far it hasn't come on and I've started the car a fair few times. Will see how it goes for the next few days and then report back. Fingers crossed.

 

[Jekyll]

Spoke too soon! Lights on!

 

[MrBlonde]

Did you find out why my layout and cannister are different to your set up?

 

[bloke]

172 and 182 inlets are different.

what resistor did you use?

 

[Jekyll]

This one Carl

 

[MrBlonde]

Might be worth trying a multimeter mate & see what the resistance is.

 

[bloke]

don't know where i've got the figure from but am sure it's meant to be a 10 ohm?? could be wrong though.

 

[Ol’ Tarby]

You got a multimeter, Mark?

 

[Jekyll]

Yeah I think I will guys!

It's bloody annoying that's for sure!

Someone did say to plug the lid back into the electrical plug and leave the rest off. Will give that a go tomorrow.

 

[Jekyll]

Various threads on here mention either 23ohms or the bigger that I screen shot above.

 

[MrBlonde]

Just have to put the cap part back on mate & clear the code & see that sorts it?

That one is only 22ohm tho that you got tho is it?

 

[RichieJA]

What difference does removing it make ?

 

[Chris_Beer]

How did you get on?

I've had this fault code on and off for a while now, and that was with everything fitted because the sensor packed up. Need to get the multimeter on the plug myself and bang a resistor in the plug as mentioned above.

Thats what I'm planning anyway

 

[Jekyll]

I've done it all Chris. In fact, I even plugged it all back in to standard tonight and still no luck.

When I first plugged in a resistor, it was burnt after a few days. Im now wandering if I've ruined the plug somehow amd now the fault remains? Otherwise I have no clue!

 

[npt]

Check resistance and fit a suitable resistor, make sure it has a firm connection within the plug, clear code then your sorted, it's likely you don't have a good/tight enough connection between the resistor and the plug

 

[MarcB]

@JP83 & @RyG

I need to try this as my EML light is coming on and i have changed it with a replacement but its still coming on.
I know the above have or are in the process of deleting it.

 

[Jekyll]

I've made a rookie mistake.....

Turned out I hadnt plugged the air temperature sensor in fully!! What a knob!

Anyway, plugged in and no more lights!

 

[Akay]

Get a proper silicone cap for the blanks instead of a bolt, looks much neater.

I couldnt get rid of the light until I soldered the resistor in and cut the plug off.

 

[leeds2592]

Have you decided to just blank them off rather than what you initially had with looping them both together Mark?

 

[MrBlonde]

Can you get proper silicone blank hoses then?

 

[Jekyll]

Yeah the bolt was a quick fix. This was trial as I went and put it all back on and tried different things to remove the light.

It has been neater prior to this and will be neater now. Unsure whether I'll loop it or make/buy a proper bung.

 

[Chris_Beer]

The air temp sensor was showing the same fault?

 

[Jekyll]

Yeah, it was loosely plugged in and that's what was giving me the light. Plugged it in fully and it hasn't come on since.

Done 60+ miles too. Normally it would come on withing 2 mins.

 

[Flat Eric]

What's the purpose of removing the canister?

 

[Kosy]

For info - sticking on RStuner 98 ron map cleared it on mine

 

[Jekyll]

Better for cold air feeds and small bit of weight loss.

@cswalmsley

 

[Ads29]

Just out of interest have you ended up leaving the cap plugged in or gone down the resistor route?

 

[Jekyll]

Yes, it's better to leave the cap plugged in. I just cable ties mine underneath the headlight. Also I put a bolt in the end to block it up


Still no light either

 

[Ads29]

Excellent cheers for that, will put it on my to do list before next track day in September

On a side note did you manage to get a 501 holder in the end?

 

[Jekyll]

Good stuff.

No I never did buddy, why, have you got one spare?

 

[Ads29]

I've got an old dci going to scrap in the next few days, pm me your address and I'll cut one off and send it over bud

 

[Nitro182]

Summat for me to do next weekend!

Sent from my SM-G928F using Tapatalk

 

[Jekyll]

I still have no light and no ticking noise. All is good

I've looped a pipe from the back of the inlet to the front and kept the lid plugged in but put a bolt in it, otherwise it ticks away.

I have had zero issues since this thread back in August last year

 

[MarcB]

@Dr Jekyll

Can you write a guide for this with pictures as its something I want to do as I have broken something 🙈🙈🙈

 

[MrBlonde]

I still have no light and no ticking noise. All is good :smile:

I've looped a pipe from the back of the inlet to the front and kept the lid plugged in but put a bolt in it, otherwise it ticks away.

I have had zero issues since this thread back in August last year :smile:

View attachment 178481 View attachment 178482

Ditto

 

[Jekyll]

Yes bud.

Remove the front bumper.

Undo the 3x 13mm bolts holding the cannister on.

Unclip the pipe from the lid to the back of the inlet and remove. The pipe runs past the upper engine mount.

These 2 are now obsolete.

Cable tie the other pipe to the underneath of the chassis, so it can ventilate.

Keep the lid plugged into the sensor/wiring and add a bolt into the remaining port to stop any ticking/suction noise.

Loop a bit of rubber pipe from the back of the inlet (which the obsolete cannister pipe was connected to) to the front to stop any air leaks, like the above picture.

That should be it :smile:

@MarcR™

 

[Jekyll]

If you want a better guide with pics then I'll do it tomorrow as I'm not on the laptop atm.

Hopefully ive kept all the pics, which I think i have.

 

[Nitro182]

This doesn't mate sense as your saying to remove the pipe from the inlet to the lid of the cannister but then you've left that pipe on the lid ?

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