Land Rover
Soooo.....after booking this job in with my local garage and being quoted £100 l decided to try and fit it myself.
It took me 2 hours but next time l reckon l could do it in one.
Procedure?
Raise the front of the car on ramps or axle stands.
Remove battery and air box/induction kit.
Disconnect clutch cable at gearbox.
Remove cable from clutch pedal.
Take out two 10mm bolts and fold back insulation material from footwell where the cable goes through.
Remove a small plastic locking ring from the cable in the footwell (use a pair of pliers to free it)
Take off the engine cover (if fitted) and remove for tree clips/large screw type clip holding the soundproofing to the engine bay bulkhead.
Unbolt the coolant reservoir tank.
Using a small jet flame lighter MELT THE PLASTIC CABLE MOUNTING and then push it through the bulkhead.
Tie some string around the cable end.
Pull the cable out from the engine bay side. Unclip it from the various clips and finally remove it.
Tie the string to the pedal end of the new cable. Pull it through (you’ll need to alternate between the footwell and the engine bay a few times)
Eventually the cable end will be visible through the hole in the bulkhead and you’ll be able to pull it through, l needed to help it with a small screwdriver as it was at an angle and wouldn’t come through by just pulling the string.
Put the cable through the hole in the sound insulation and then fit it to the pedal mechanism.
Make sure the cable outer comes through the hole, you won’t be able to pull it right through to engage the clips but it will locate the first time you operate the clutch.
Refit the plastic locking ring to the cable.
Refit the footwell insulation.
Poke your arm behind the soundproofing on the bulkhead and locate the cable in two clips. Locate the cable in a third clip near the N/S wheelarch. Attach the cable at the clutch end.
Re attach the engine bay soundproofing.
Refit the battery and air box etc
This was not a difficult task and the clutch action was improved (smoother/lighter) although still no VW Polo.
It took me 2 hours but next time l reckon l could do it in one.
Procedure?
Raise the front of the car on ramps or axle stands.
Remove battery and air box/induction kit.
Disconnect clutch cable at gearbox.
Remove cable from clutch pedal.
Take out two 10mm bolts and fold back insulation material from footwell where the cable goes through.
Remove a small plastic locking ring from the cable in the footwell (use a pair of pliers to free it)
Take off the engine cover (if fitted) and remove for tree clips/large screw type clip holding the soundproofing to the engine bay bulkhead.
Unbolt the coolant reservoir tank.
Using a small jet flame lighter MELT THE PLASTIC CABLE MOUNTING and then push it through the bulkhead.
Tie some string around the cable end.
Pull the cable out from the engine bay side. Unclip it from the various clips and finally remove it.
Tie the string to the pedal end of the new cable. Pull it through (you’ll need to alternate between the footwell and the engine bay a few times)
Eventually the cable end will be visible through the hole in the bulkhead and you’ll be able to pull it through, l needed to help it with a small screwdriver as it was at an angle and wouldn’t come through by just pulling the string.
Put the cable through the hole in the sound insulation and then fit it to the pedal mechanism.
Make sure the cable outer comes through the hole, you won’t be able to pull it right through to engage the clips but it will locate the first time you operate the clutch.
Refit the plastic locking ring to the cable.
Refit the footwell insulation.
Poke your arm behind the soundproofing on the bulkhead and locate the cable in two clips. Locate the cable in a third clip near the N/S wheelarch. Attach the cable at the clutch end.
Re attach the engine bay soundproofing.
Refit the battery and air box etc
This was not a difficult task and the clutch action was improved (smoother/lighter) although still no VW Polo.
