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changing dial backlights





Im looking to change my dash to a blue colour to get rid of that sh*te orange colour, i would like it looking similar to the Golfs dash if possible!I know a few people have done this but ive got a few questions if anyone can help.

Ive got a mk2 ph1 clio (1999) does any1 know what size leds i would need and where i could get hold on them? Ive already had the dash out once to change the dials but is the changing the leds very messy?

Any help would get great

cheers
 
  TDI tyre shreader


Cant u just put a cover on/paint them rather than changing them, i remember an old head unit that u could do that with
 
  BMW e46 320 Ci Sport


thats looks brilliant...wonder if u can chanfe the other display with clock and temperature on it to blue too?!? heard they were orange bulbs not using a film so u need to change the actual bulbs... not sure what ones thoug...
 
  Clio 1.4, SV650S


Has anyone managed this?

The language conversion i looked at is a bit too literal!



Thanks guys
 


Hello.

My name is Noah, I am of the Clio Club Spain, and at the request of cliodcivan am going to explain you as are installed the leds blue in the needles of the scoreboards. I do not know Portuguese so I expect that myself entendais well.

We go with it

Phase 1: to Dismantle the salpicadero of the car

Fase2: to Install the leds in the scoreboards

Phase 1:

The first thing that one must cause is to dismantle the salpicadero interior of the clio. One must remove enough pieces but is facil. Here go the photos

1.1 Tornillos lateral: are to both sides of the car and one must open the doors so that the veais, are almost some embellecedores, but is necessary to remove them or not podreis to dismantle nothing





1.2 Embellecedores upper: Go since the salpicadero to the ceiling, and tambien is necessary to remove them. They come out with a screwdriver, doing a movement toward outside in various places leave the 3 clips that has each embellecedor. The clip upper has an eyelash of security that is removed doing presion toward inside that eyelash, and throwing toward outside of the embellecedor



1.3 Upper Exits of air: INSIDE the exit of air of the thermal window there is 3 tornillos, two in the extremes and one head office. tambien one must remove them



1.4 Tornillos baguettes: Are detras of the baguettes, that leave doing pressure toward outside with a screwdriver. There is 1 tornillo in the baguette left and 3 tornillos in the baguette right.





1.5 Light of warning and upper cover of the steering wheel: The upper cover comes out with the hand, is the one that is just detras of the steering wheel and just in front of the scoreboards, teneis that removing it to be able to agree later to the tornillos of the scoreboards. The plastico of the lights of warning, rear window and close centralizado one must remove it, with a screwdriver, it goes to pressure and it is not necessary to do a great deal of force





1.6 To Remove the salpicadero:

Necesitareis helps of another person. Once they removed the tornillos the salpicadero is inserted to pressure. One must throw WITH CARE, but with force. It has couplings in the forward part superior, with clips, in the central part, to the sides of the exits of air, with eyelashes, and to the right, is hooked al airbag of the passenger, with eyelashes.

The part of the scoreboards and central leaves very easy. The part of the airbag is more dificil: The movement that one must cause is downward and toward atras despues to remove the eyelashes of the airbag, that are in the forward part of this. in the photo himself vé very well:



This would be the final result, when quitais the salpicadero:



1.7 to Separate the scoreboards of the salpicadero: Is very easy. The scoreboards have two tornillos in the area of down and in the upper part are hooked to pressure, alone one must remove them and to remove the connectors that are in the rear part.













Phase 2: to Dismantle the scoreboards and to install the leds

Material that necesitais:

- Screwdrivers type torx - Soldador of fine tip, of 15w more or less (I did it with one of 30 and did not pass anything) - Chupador of tin - FINE Tin and
with a certain quality. Does not it do lack that be the best, but that do not be the worst one neither - Polímetro, or multímetro: to see the polaridad of
the leds - Leds for the scoreboards:

2 for each large sphere (2x2) 1 for each small sphere 4 for the screen of the scoreboard

In total are 10 leds, although I recommend you that compreis more, by if some comes faulty or it rompeis welding. I bought 30 al principle

The type of led: SMD 1026, high brightness

Although podeis to put tambien SMD 1210 if are of high brightness. You differentiate: the 1210 are larger (the numero 1210 is the size of the led) and more easy to handle therefore. For the ones that there they be not soldier never are better. The 1206 they are more dificiles to handle for their size (as the of a telefono movil) and need certain experience on the part of the soldador.

2.1 To Remove the needles

One must dismantle the plastic that comes for in front of the scoreboards. goes to pressure and can be removed with the hand



Once it removed the plastic one must remove the needles. I recommend you the following thing: If podeis to remove them with the better hand, but are hard. If not teneis forces one must do use of a small holder. You do it in this way: Cogeis a trocito of role and it haceis a cut. Despues introducis the role by that cut in the base of the needle: will serve to support the holder without fear to do does none mark in the fund of the scoreboards.

Teneis that to mark the intial position of the needles to be able to put them in the same position when the monteis. The presionais lightly downward and marcais in the edges of the scoreboards to know the exact position





2.2 To Dismantle the different parts of the scoreboard

Quitais the tornillos of the part of atras and they will remain the different loose parts. The plate of the fund of scoreboards is separated perfectly, edges of scoreboards and rear part





In this photo the plate is seen and the leds that one must substitute

2.3 Desoldar and to weld the leds new

My recommendation is the following one: I am not an expert in welding so you I will tell how did I do it.

Desoldar

1 - With some pinzas small sujetais the led. Calentais the tin by each side until be removed the led of its position





2 - With the chupador, calentais the surplus tin and it retirais



To see the polaridad of the leds: In the leds comes physically indicated. If are 1210 have a different corner and if are 1206 have tambien an indicator. But to assure us, with the polimetro, we put it in the free position (Marks 1, without doing him nothing, and has this simbolo -> +) and we put each extreme in the leds, if is lit, where have placed the BLACK one is the NEGATIVE (K) and there will be that to weld it in the plate continuing that order. In the plate is indicated the negative with that same one K, although is not bad idea to be set in the position of the led before removing it and to weld the new one in the same one. I removed a led, and welded one new, and thus.

To weld

1 - Sujetais the led new with the pinzas in the correct position and it aplicais tin heating it in each extreme. Does not it do lack that pongais a great deal of tin but neither one must remain short. Also podeis to hit the center of the led in the plate with a gotita of pegamento so that itself do not move when soldeis, but I preferred to hold it with some pinzas, thus, if mistook me, could remove it and to return it to put, or to put a new one if broke it. Is possible that in this way necesiteis an ayudita because alone teneis two hands jejej

2 - Little to little soldais all the leds. It can be verified if the habeis placed well because if usais the polimetro to should be lit touching the parts tinned. or well putting the negative part of the polimetro on the extreme negative of the led and the positive part on the positive part of the circuit that surrounds al led (I believe that was thus)

2.4 to Return to mount the scoreboards and the salpicadero. To verify the final result



If teneis the needles of the scoreboards in RED color, tendreis that to remove the painting of atras and to paint them of WHITE color, with some acrylic type of painting, this is because the red color does not reflect well the blue color of the leds and they will not be seen.

If not encontrais the leds podeis to buy them in internet, but they will cost you something more expensive than in the stores. Here teneis a pair of links

SATKIT

leds. gives. ru

I expect that have served you and if any teneis doubt not dudeis in putting it here or to pass you for the forum of the Clio Club Spain

LUCK! !!!!!!!!!!!
 

KDF

  Audi TT Stronic


Dont think the translation went to well..

Anyone speak good spanish and good english ?
 

KDF

  Audi TT Stronic


Okay I am gonna try and convert this to readable english if I miss bits give me a hand LOL!


Phase 2: Dismantle the Instrument Panel and to install the LEDs

Tools that you need:

- Torx Screwdrivers
- Soldering iron with a fine tip, a 15w iron will do (I did it with a 30w one and did not break anything)

- Some thin decent quality solder. Does not have to be the best, but dont get the worst one neither
- Polarity meter, or multímeter: to see the polarity of the leds
- Leds for the Intrument Panel:

2 LEDs for the large insturment panel cirles (presumably rpm and speedo) (2x2) 1 for each small cirles and 4 for the LCD screen on the Instrument Panel

In total are 10 leds, although I recommend you that buy extras, if some are delivered faulty or it brakes when soldering. I bought 30 for example.

(okay it gets a bit more confusing now lol ! I gave up at this point.)
-------------------------------------
The type of led: SMD 1026, high brightness

Although the LEDs SMD 1210 are of high brightness. You differentiate: the 1210 are larger (the numero 1210 is the size of the led) and more easy to handle therefore. For the ones that there they be not soldier never are better. The 1206 they are more dificiles to handle for their size (as the of a telefono movil) and need certain experience on the part of the soldador.

2.1 To Remove the needles

One must dismantle the plastic that comes for in front of the scoreboards. goes to pressure and can be removed with the hand



Once it removed the plastic one must remove the needles. I recommend you the following thing: If podeis to remove them with the better hand, but are hard. If not teneis forces one must do use of a small holder. You do it in this way: Cogeis a trocito of role and it haceis a cut. Despues introducis the role by that cut in the base of the needle: will serve to support the holder without fear to do does none mark in the fund of the scoreboards.

Teneis that to mark the intial position of the needles to be able to put them in the same position when the monteis. The presionais lightly downward and marcais in the edges of the scoreboards to know the exact position





2.2 To Dismantle the different parts of the scoreboard

Quitais the tornillos of the part of atras and they will remain the different loose parts. The plate of the fund of scoreboards is separated perfectly, edges of scoreboards and rear part





In this photo the plate is seen and the leds that one must substitute

2.3 Desoldar and to weld the leds new

My recommendation is the following one: I am not an expert in welding so you I will tell how did I do it.

Desoldar

1 - With some pinzas small sujetais the led. Calentais the tin by each side until be removed the led of its position





2 - With the chupador, calentais the surplus tin and it retirais



To see the polaridad of the leds: In the leds comes physically indicated. If are 1210 have a different corner and if are 1206 have tambien an indicator. But to assure us, with the polimetro, we put it in the free position (Marks 1, without doing him nothing, and has this simbolo -> +) and we put each extreme in the leds, if is lit, where have placed the BLACK one is the NEGATIVE (K) and there will be that to weld it in the plate continuing that order. In the plate is indicated the negative with that same one K, although is not bad idea to be set in the position of the led before removing it and to weld the new one in the same one. I removed a led, and welded one new, and thus.

To weld

1 - Sujetais the led new with the pinzas in the correct position and it aplicais tin heating it in each extreme. Does not it do lack that pongais a great deal of tin but neither one must remain short. Also podeis to hit the center of the led in the plate with a gotita of pegamento so that itself do not move when soldeis, but I preferred to hold it with some pinzas, thus, if mistook me, could remove it and to return it to put, or to put a new one if broke it. Is possible that in this way necesiteis an ayudita because alone teneis two hands jejej

2 - Little to little soldais all the leds. It can be verified if the habeis placed well because if usais the polimetro to should be lit touching the parts tinned. or well putting the negative part of the polimetro on the extreme negative of the led and the positive part on the positive part of the circuit that surrounds al led (I believe that was thus)

2.4 to Return to mount the scoreboards and the salpicadero. To verify the final result



If teneis the needles of the scoreboards in RED color, tendreis that to remove the painting of atras and to paint them of WHITE color, with some acrylic type of painting, this is because the red color does not reflect well the blue color of the leds and they will not be seen.

If not encontrais the leds podeis to buy them in internet, but they will cost you something more expensive than in the stores. Here teneis a pair of links

SATKIT

leds. gives. ru

I expect that have served you and if any teneis doubt not dudeis in putting it here or to pass you for the forum of the Clio Club Spain

LUCK! !!!!!!!!!!!
 


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