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Cheap temporary gearbox oil



  PH2 172
Yeah, that makes sense. If the shaft is too long, loosening the nut wont make much difference.
While your at it, make sure the tripod is not moving about in the diff, and put it in 1st with engine running to check the shaft is straight.
Please throw a wheel under the car as a failsafe in the event it falls off the axle stand or jack.
 
Sorry just being a forum idiot lol..

Potentially STEVE, mine were in late 2016 but then again it could be down to everyone's different setups. I have some new engine mounts to fit soon so it will be interesting to see if mine starts playing up. I have the original shafts sat in the garage which I'll probably get rebuilt if it came to it, but no dramas with both J&R's for me at the moment.
 

oreA

ClioSport Club Member
  BMW M135i; Clio 172
Not much hope is there :smile:!

I knew I was taking a risk, truth be told, and I didn’t read the terms/conditions. Lesson learnt. Being a cheapskate doesn’t always pay off :tongueclosed:.
 
  Inferno 182 & Saxo
look at the state of that 3 month old drive shaft in the video.
Thats top quality cnc machined 10k rpm tested engineering right there
 

oreA

ClioSport Club Member
  BMW M135i; Clio 172
Who else supplies them.
Do you mean where else can they be bought? There's the option of Shaftec I believe, RPD & KTEC? Don't know who manufactures them though, or if they're any better. I'd welcome some recommendations :cool:.

look at the state of that 3 month old drive shaft in the video.
Thats top quality cnc machined 10k rpm tested engineering right there
LOL!
(Perhaps they should test them on a car at 40 - 70 mph? :wink:)
 

oreA

ClioSport Club Member
  BMW M135i; Clio 172
Just to update this thread.....

I cleaned up the old shaft, bought a cheap boot kit from ECP, whacked it all back together, took it for a drive and the difference is shocking, it’s so smooth, no wobbles/vibrations, nothing, it’s mint! And that’s without the balancing weight that I took off because the rubber had perished and it had slipped out of position. I didn’t realise how bad the J&R shaft was.

The J&R shaft was so reasonable in price so I bought a new one because I was worried just changing the boot would be a nightmare, and also I was afraid I’d find the old shaft shagged and be left with the car off the road whilst I waited for a new one to arrive (it’s not even a daily, just didn’t want it hanging around the drive up on stands :nomouth:). As it happens I was able to swap the shaft over in just a couple of hours - most of that time I’m fussing around jacking he car up, making it secure, draining and refilling the oil :pensive:.

Anyhow, thanks for everyone’s help and advice, much appreciated :up:.
 
  406 V6, Race Buggy
Gear 8 is decent oil - leave it in.

As for J&R, I have never met a bigger shower of shite in the replacement parts industry in all my years, they supplied me 3(!) sets of calipers with the wrong thread bleed screw fitted - so that as soon as you touched the bleed nipple it took the thread out - they still owe several hundred quid for all the sets returned even with an engineer confirming it, years later.
Their refurbished shafts are a joke too, I got given a pair to fit to my brothers Clio when he had it and they had more play in the joints than the 10 year old OE shafts on there did. I rebuilt the OE ones with new boots and he returned them.
How the hell they haven't been taken out of business yet by HSE I don't know.
 

oreA

ClioSport Club Member
  BMW M135i; Clio 172
Gear 8 is decent oil - leave it in.
Thanks! But sadly it was out of stock, so I put the old stuff back in that I salvaged just to make sure all was ok. I’ve just today got some Redline MTL from Opie Oils, which is a decent price with ‘CLIOSPORT’ discount :cool:.
 
  406 V6, Race Buggy
Probably, pretty lucky it showed up on the first set as soon as I went to bleed them. They still sent 2 more sets out with the exact same problem even after me telling them what was wrong though. Cowboys.
 


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