LY 182
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Checking the cambelt is timed up properly
- Thread starter Matteh
- Start date
fiesta 1.25
so no one can do it cheaper then?
yea mate, drop me a PM
fiesta 1.25
lol
M
mini-valver
Gutted mate 
WHy not drop a complete engine in, now the conversions done? Then you can rebuild the dud as and when, as a project?
Chin up fella!
WHy not drop a complete engine in, now the conversions done? Then you can rebuild the dud as and when, as a project?
Chin up fella!
'92 172, Lotus Elise
yup, was given to me with the cambelt tensioner loose
I've taken the cam cover off and have found that some of the things that the cam lobes pivot (technical innit) were not in their right place!
I thought maybe i could've dislodged them when i removed the cover but on closer inspection, there is some damage to the area (around cylinder 2 where the 0 compression was)...
worth putting it all back together and timing it up, to see if it runs?
I've taken the cam cover off and have found that some of the things that the cam lobes pivot (technical innit) were not in their right place!
I thought maybe i could've dislodged them when i removed the cover but on closer inspection, there is some damage to the area (around cylinder 2 where the 0 compression was)...
worth putting it all back together and timing it up, to see if it runs?
rctempire
ClioSport Moderator
I know mine isnt a 172, but this was my problem.
Took head off for skimming and put head back on, pushed belt back on, started engine, and timing was off and the engine was dying.
Took engine mounts on the cambelt side off. Adjusted the belt to be TDC on the flywheel and the crankshaft. Built back up the engine and fired up car again, still was firing on three cylinders. Took injectors off, replaced them, replaced coil pack, replaced sparks, replaced ht leads.
Then took rocker cover off and checked the tapets again, found out that one exhaust tapet was constantly closed. Whipped in feeler gauge and adjusted tapets.
Put rocker cover back on and it fired first time.
In fairness should have checked the tapets when the head was off. Doh.
Took head off for skimming and put head back on, pushed belt back on, started engine, and timing was off and the engine was dying.
Took engine mounts on the cambelt side off. Adjusted the belt to be TDC on the flywheel and the crankshaft. Built back up the engine and fired up car again, still was firing on three cylinders. Took injectors off, replaced them, replaced coil pack, replaced sparks, replaced ht leads.
Then took rocker cover off and checked the tapets again, found out that one exhaust tapet was constantly closed. Whipped in feeler gauge and adjusted tapets.
Put rocker cover back on and it fired first time.
In fairness should have checked the tapets when the head was off. Doh.
LY 182
they are hyraulic on yours mate, they will want squeezing in a vice (purists will probably start on me for saying that)
when they pump up with oil the self adjust and if they havnt been assembled in the same way and/or valve seats have been lapped or cut then the hydrualics will be holding the valves open.
when they pump up with oil the self adjust and if they havnt been assembled in the same way and/or valve seats have been lapped or cut then the hydrualics will be holding the valves open.
I had bend my 8 exhaust valves and one of the rockers were off his original position when I took off the top cover engine, so mate I think that sound of the engine are the exhaust valves crashing with the piston, that's why you have 0 psi at the second cylinder, that's my opinion, cheers.
If cyl leakage is sub 10-12% you should be ok with dry cylinder walls. But in reality you want to ignore the readings really as most cheapo gauges give pretty useless readings.
You will want to set the engine to the comp stroke at tdc and check leakage, but listen to the inlet port, exhaust port and in the breather/oil filler. If there is air leaking you will be able to identify from where easier. If its an in/ex port spray in some brake cleaner to fill the majority of it up and you can visually check which area of the seat is leaking and by how much. If its like a jacuzzi then you have issues.
You will want to set the engine to the comp stroke at tdc and check leakage, but listen to the inlet port, exhaust port and in the breather/oil filler. If there is air leaking you will be able to identify from where easier. If its an in/ex port spray in some brake cleaner to fill the majority of it up and you can visually check which area of the seat is leaking and by how much. If its like a jacuzzi then you have issues.
