Sorry? Take it up to 4500rpm? You need to rev it to 7300rpm to get anywhere in a Valver!
Mate, got to warn you that a Clio Valver is not a cheap car to run. You might be lucky and get a peach of a car that never needs more than oil and brake pads, but most will give you at least couple of fairly big bills every year (£500). Dont buy a 16V or Williams for an easy life!
Id print this off if I were you!
Read the 1994 Cars & Car Conversions article on the Williams on the main Cliosport site (under "articles"). That outlines the Group A pedigree of the 16v - and its later homologated special edition: the Williams.
Despite this greatness, they can be expensive and time consuming cars - though not because there are any inherrent faults. Cared for cars will last very well, but those that have been repaired cheaply/not at all will cause problems. Some people buy a 16V, realise they need to be loved and then sell them on with problems.
I bought what looked like a really nice example, with engine mods and leather. Despite a new engine, clutch, brakes and sound bodywork, I spent the best part of my spare time and money over two years replacing practically everything on it.
But they look beautiful (especially with no exterior mods), make possibly the best 4-cylinder production engine induction roar and are damn fast. Oh - and theyre only Group 12 insurance too.
I wouldnt worry too much about high miles if the bils are there - I think these cars wear with age rather than mileage. If you pick up a car for a good price with 100k miles plus, it will probably give you less big bills than a car with 60k. These cars are fairly maintenace-intensive, so, look for a big folder of bills
What you should then be looking for then can be split into categories:
Exterior:
- Rear arch lips are susceptible to rusting, front ones are plastic so arent a problem. Rust also possible on door bottoms, around window rear quarters and boot bottom. Rear arches are now only available as an entire quarter panel - £330 from Renault inc VAT each side - so make for an expensive repair. Other body panels are surprisingly reasonable after a recent price cut.
- Front fogs (£50) are prone to cracking due to stone chips.
- Bonnet and front bumper also prone to stone chips (duh!).
Mechanical:
N.B. due to engine size, many otherwise simple jobs on 16v/Willy are engine-out jobs.
- Cambelts must have been done before 72k (many advise a cambelt change far earlier); fairly big bill in itself and mega bill if it snaps in service.
- Diffs, gbox and clutch are all expensive jobs so check carefully. Jump off the accelerator in 2nd to see if it pops out of gear: if so, then suspect the box or the "dog bone" engine-to-subframe engine mount. Vibration that doesnt go away when steering could mean a thrush bearing in the diff (pretty common).
- Rear brake callipers can seize. New rear discs also necessitate new wheel bearings.
- Check aftermarket exhaust mountings - often a poor fit; rumbling under load can be caused by poor exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket (cheap job, disturbing noise).
- Erratic idle commonly due to faulty throttle potentionometer or idle speed control valve (respectively a specialist job and a straight swap).
- 16v/Willy run hot, so check coolant system - hoses, rad, expansion tank, water pump, anti-percolation (if you can). Radweld works wonders with minor radiator leaks, but can block the system.
- Engine mounts often go - embarassing and expensive to have your engine fall out, so see if engine rocks back and forth by opening bonnet and pulling accelerator cable with engine running.
- If car has induction kit check security of air hoses - can explain erratic idle or apparent air leak.
- Steering racks and columns are common failures. The handling reaction will be a second or two behind steering input in such a case; car will also tramline and follow road too much.
- Check for snapped front springs.
- CV gaiters should be checked - clicking noise on full lock means theyre gone.
- Handbrake is normally not good.
- If lowered, will need new front strut top mounts sooner or later. If majorly lowered, check to see that brake pressure-regulating control valve has been adjusted at the rear - otherwise the back wheels will lock too easily. Lowering also places extra strain on front anti-roll bar mountings and bushes and the track rod ends.
Interior:
- Sunroofs leak - tough luck!
- Electric window and mirror switches are very expensive - so check them too.
- Front seat belt reels often become ineffective - especially the drivers one.
- Door handle rods in door mechanism can come loose, so that the handle wont work. A time-consuming but easy job.
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