Hi everyone, this is a quick thread I wanted to make to document all I learned just in case it can help anyone else. I'll try and make this as helpful as possible, but treat this more as extra information rather than an actual guide since I'm not a mechanic, just documenting my experience. This is also more for those outside the UK/Continental Europe where these Clios are a lot rarer and parts and knowledgeable mechanics are less available.
Background (skip if not interested): Last year (2025) I bought a Clio 182 here in South Africa with a ruined clutch, it would violently judder when releasing the clutch pedal, refuse to go into reverse when stationary, and grind when changing into first. Long-story short, fixing it involved learning things the hard way and removing it TWICE in the same year after doing it wrong the first time and having it somehow end up worse than before within a few months.
Important Information:
Background (skip if not interested): Last year (2025) I bought a Clio 182 here in South Africa with a ruined clutch, it would violently judder when releasing the clutch pedal, refuse to go into reverse when stationary, and grind when changing into first. Long-story short, fixing it involved learning things the hard way and removing it TWICE in the same year after doing it wrong the first time and having it somehow end up worse than before within a few months.
Important Information:
- Torque settings can be found elsewhere on the forum or with the Renault service manuals if you can access them with the Renault Dialogys software.
- If you're struggling to find parts (not just clutch-related and not just for the Clio) and are outside of Europe, I highly recommend Spareto, just make sure to buy a lot of parts to split the exorbitant shipping costs, otherwise it's not worth it.
- In terms of clutch kits and flywheels, all 172s and 182s are the same, Cup, non-Cup, Trophy, etc. (to my knowledge, correct me if I'm wrong.)
- The JC5 gearboxes themselves can differ somewhat, with older models coming with a cable speedo and different gear ratios compared to later models. More info on the gearboxes can be found elsewhere on the forum.
- The original Valeo clutch kit for the Clio 172 or 182 (826558) is highly, highly recommended. I can't speak for other brands in other countries, but at least in South Africa, the only LUK clutch kit available is made for a 2.0L Scenic, and while it would've fitted, it's not rated for the 1*2's power. Basically, ensure the clutch kit you buy is specifically for a Clio 172 or 182, not just a generic F4R kit.
- The 1*2's flywheel is unique, not shared by any other car. While, a Scenic flywheel may bolt on, the 1*2 flywheel is factory lightened.
- This flywheel has a very small, but VERY IMPORTANT STEP HEIGHT, and you should NOT skim it. I didn't write down the step height exactly, but I believe it was ~0.5mm, and that small ridge is required for proper clamping force.
- This flywheel is very hard to find replacements for, as it's a single mass flywheel so doesn't usually require replacement. Aftermarket lightened flywheels are available but I cannot speak for those.
- Before reinstalling the flywheel, it's the perfect time to do the crankshaft oil seal. When doing it, make sure to leave ~5mm of it sticking out, do not press it in completely flush or it will leak.
- The flywheel bolts can be reused in a pinch, but should be replaced if possible. If reusing them, make sure to clean them thoroughly with a wire wheel to remove all the old Loctite, then coat with blue Loctite along the entire thread, not just at the end. The threads are exposed to oil by design, so the Loctite also acts as a seal to prevent oil from seeping through. Before threading them in, I'd recommend vacuuming the crankshaft's thread holes to remove all the old Loctite and bits of old oil to help seal it in better. Torque the flywheel bolts in a star pattern.
- After inserting the clutch disc and aligning it with the right tool, torque pressure plate to flywheel bolts in a star pattern.
- The guide tube should never, ever be greased! The thrust bearing is made of a special self-lubricating material and adding grease here will only collect clutch dust and turn into a gummy paste, causing a very stiff pedal.
- Areas you should add a small amount of Litho HT grease to include the thrust bearings's contact points with the clutch fork, and on the same points on the clutch fork itself and the pivot point of the fork.
- Make sure to tie down the clutch fork with string to prevent it from unseating itself while putting the gearbox back in.
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