Clio 182 non-cup upgrade dilemna

[MR2FC]

Hi All,
If you were refreshing a non-cup 182 with cup shocks (172 fronts), either Eibach or H&r springs plus wishbones and bushes but had a bit of monies to spare, would you add a quick-rack or a roll-centre correction kit?

Road use only, commuting and b-Road blasting, limited motorway use (maybe only three or four times a year) and about 7000 miles a year.

Any advice gratefully received

 

[green]

Probably better to get 182 cup hubs rather than roll center kit seeing as it’s just road blasts and commuting. Also 182 cup dampers to fit to hubs. Pros are bigger wheel bearing, larger wheel flange and increased steering acumen.
try and use standard parts and you won’t have any problems...last thing you want when commuting.

 

[Kev@KAM]

It makes a difference. It depends though how sensitive you are.
When I purchased my Clio it was the first thing I went hunting for.
We do a lowering spring and damper refresh kit all discounted...Grams springs so lower than the Eibach and a nicer ride than the H&R

 

[plenty]

If haven’t already, go for camber/caster adjustable solid top mounts first. Makes a huge difference and much cheaper than the two options you’re considering.

 

[Usr117063]

Would you stick with hpas?

 

[MR2FC]

Thank you for all your replies

 

[MR2FC]

Would you stick with hpas?

I think so, does that make a difference?

 

[MR2FC]

It makes a difference. It depends though how sensitive you are.
When I purchased my Clio it was the first thing I went hunting for.
We do a lowering spring and damper refresh kit all discounted...Grams springs so lower than the Eibach and a nicer ride than the H&R

That looks good

 

[Usr117063]

I think so, does that make a difference?

Only one company does a hpas quick rack and they use old seals and bearings in the already flawed casing design. I just bought a brand new steering rack to put the quick ratio gearing in and want to get the casing machined to use bigger bolts so theres no room for movement. They use m8 bolts to bolt the pinion casing to the rack but the holes are massive, if the pinion bearing has room to move, then the only thing holding things into place are the tightness of the bolts.

 

[MR2FC]

Only one company does a hpas quick rack and they use old seals and bearings in the already flawed casing design. I just bought a brand new steering rack to put the quick ratio gearing in and want to get the casing machined to use bigger bolts so theres no room for movement. They use m8 bolts to bolt the pinion casing to the rack but the holes are massive, if the pinion bearing has room to move, then the only thing holding things into place are the tightness of the bolts.

I think that's more than I want to do, but thanks for your reply.

 

[MR2FC]

So, to continue this...
I'd like to try the roll centre correction kit, which means I won't need bottom ball joints, so to go with that is there a magic combination of OEM and poly bushes I should be looking at or just go all OEM except for the steering rack mounts (it sounds best to have them poly)

I have been reading and searching, but I may have brain-strain now! So if someone could just simplify it, that'd be great! Lol

Plus I'd have someone to blame if it's crap... Jokes!

 

[MR2FC]

I guess a bit of car history might help...

I used to have a Fiesta RSt with quaife diff, Gaz coilovers and rose-jointed bottom arms, so I know what I'm letting myself in for there, but the rest of the bushes were OEM, this was fine for me.

Previously daily driven a VX220, S1 RSt and various other lowered cars, currently have a Mk4 Golf lowered on springs and shocks, but it's dull as...

 

[MR2FC]

I was joking about "someone to blame"!

I think I'll go OEM on everything except rack mounts? I'll replace top mounts, anti-roll bar bushes and wishbones (with bushes) and the dog bone.

Black or road for the rack mounts?

Happy to listen to ideas, or does anyone know any threads with experience of changing them "bit by bit" to get an idea of which bushes hurt the ride the most?

 

[Usr117063]

I was joking about "someone to blame"!

I think I'll go OEM on everything except rack mounts? I'll replace top mounts, anti-roll bar bushes and wishbones (with bushes) and the dog bone.

Black or road for the rack mounts?

Happy to listen to ideas, or does anyone know any threads with experience of changing them "bit by bit" to get an idea of which bushes hurt the ride the most?

Powerflex rack bushes are s**t. These are what you want

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Crazylegs]

Not the same car but I had a CRX VTEC many years ago. I made the silly mistake of replacing every single Bush with polybushes and it absolutely ruined the ride, so any bushes going forward would be OEM for me personally.

The 182 is stiff and rigid enough as it is. I'd replace with OEM tbh but maybe look at upgrading to a slightly stiffer engine and gearbox mount such as Vibratechnics, Innovative or Energy mounts. Dog bone mount also helps, I've got that on mine as it came with the car.

My future plans will be similar to yours and that is to replace certain bushes to give it a refresh of sorts. I think the suggestion above of better/adjustable top mounts such as the one's from Pure Motorsport is also a good shout, get some adjustable camber bolts for the front and adjustable shim axles for the rear and maybe new rear dampers too.

 

[MR2FC]

So fresh OEM on everything I can, OEM cup shocks all round and Grams springs, add the roll centre correction kit?

 

[MR2FC]

Powerflex rack bushes are s**t. These are what you want

Pardon our interruption...

OEM everything else and these (seemingly) solid rack bushes?

 

[Usr117063]

OEM everything else and these (seemingly) solid rack bushes?

Yes pretty much solid, its what they used on the cup racers. There would be no positive reason to use standard bushes for the rack.

 

[Usr117063]

@MR2FC Have you thought about solid top mounts? Adjustable ones as well? Bc racing do some for a good price, I cant comment on them with just springs because I went to coilovers at the same time, but I know Ive read people say that they dont make the ride harsh or anything so worth a look.

 

[jameswrx]

I’d echo what crazylegs said.

I have two 172’s and one is standard, one is modded with poly stuff, springs etc and it’s as horrible as it is awesome to drive (if that makes any sense). I certainly wouldn’t move from OE if it’s your daily. You’ll get a lot of vibration with updated engine & gbox mounts, just accelerating it’s like you’re directly attached to the engine.

Cup shocks maybe but personally I wouldn’t even change the springs. My stock car in a way is more fun how it steers & dives about and you can pretty much drive over anything. I wouldn’t say there’s anything wrong with a stock car’s handling for a daily.

 

[MR2FC]

So I think I'll go full OEM bushes, cup shocks and Grams springs, those solid rack mounts and maybe look for some adjustable top mounts?

 

[MR2FC]

Thanks both for your replies

@ZachB from a quick glance, the BC top mounts are for coilovers?

 

[Usr117063]

Thanks both for your replies

@ZachB from a quick glance, the BC top mounts are for coilovers?

I thought you could run both? People run standard shocks with other solid mounts. @Kev@KAM

 

[Kev@KAM]

The BC come with an integrated lower bearing so I’m not sure would be easy to fit to a standard strut