Different caster each side - should I be worried?

[JezzaMac]

Just went to get my tracking and camber done at CLCM in Edinburgh where I always go as I fitted coilovers, powerflex wishbone and ARB bushes and also new ball joints over winter.

Everything looks good on the print out appart from the difference in caster at the front. As you can see in the second image which was from 6 months ago the caster was about bang on before. Is there anything to worry about with the new difference, should I be trying to bring them closer or are they fine as they are and I should just leave them?

Today:

06/12

Cheers

 

[Chip-mk1]

1/3 of a degree isnt really enough to worry about, tiny bit of ride height difference one side to the other can easily cause that.

Plus as demonstrated by your printouts its been the same for the last year anyway!

 

[JezzaMac]

Ideal Chip! Just what I wanted to hear!

 

[EVOgone]

Caster adjustment is loosen the balljoint on the wish bone and give it a tap and then tighten again. You can adjust around 30mins usually.

3 degress camber on the back and 1/2 on the front ? Have you put some shims in the rear?

 

[Chip-mk1]

Caster adjustment is loosen the balljoint on the wish bone and give it a tap and then tighten again. You can adjust around 30mins usually.

3 degress camber on the back and 1/2 on the front ? Have you put some shims in the rear?

Its got 2 degrees on the front now mate, you are looking at the before figure not the after.

I would assume the reason it was in there in the first place was to have the camber bolts set.

 

[EVOgone]

Its got 2 degrees on the front now mate, you are looking at the before figure not the after.

I would assume the reason it was in there in the first place was to have the camber bolts set.

So it is LoL a quick tap of the ball joint and it would be 100 % but as you say not very noticeable on the road.

 

[Dan519]

Caster adjustment is loosen the balljoint on the wish bone and give it a tap and then tighten again. You can adjust around 30mins usually.

only if you use the crappy non standard bolts. The originals are a pretty positive fit

 

[MG cup]

3 degrees of rear camber on your latest setup? Did you fit shims as previously asked?

 

[JezzaMac]

Yes the rear is on 10mm -1 degree hub spacers, however they must be more than -1! Ideally I wanted -2 front and rear.

 

[Chip-mk1]

only if you use the crappy non standard bolts. The originals are a pretty positive fit

They are in the arm, but he means to move the balljoint itself relative to the bolts, there is a small amount of movement there, and you can always file the hole slightly if you need more.

I wouldnt bother over 1/3rd of a degree though personally.

 

[MG cup]

Yes the rear is on 10mm -1 degree hub spacers, however they must be more than -1! Ideally I wanted -2 front and rear.

Got any pics of the camber from the rear looking down the quarter panel? I'm trying to decide what degree shims to have on mine.

 

[Toastfrenzy]

Got any pics of the camber from the rear looking down the quarter panel? I'm trying to decide what degree shims to have on mine.

I started with 1 degree on my cup so 2.2 -2.5 total on the rear....get good even wear with just a tadge more on the out side edge if you were picky...

Mine was even before I started so you may need to measure before geting two 1 degree shims...


Unless you really are going for the look, 3 degrees then, job done...lol. Rather than performance\grip\wear etc.....

 

[MG cup]

I think I'll go with 1.5 degree machined into my spacers and then shim it to suit differences in the beam if any and some toe out.

How much toe out do you run Pete?

 

[Toastfrenzy]

This year I reduced toe from 2mm total to 1.5 total....can't wait to see the increase in straight line speed.....Turn in was sharp before and with the 3.5 castor almost flicks the wheel out of your hand self straightening.....I should do Chip's wish bone mod ( to get more castor) but want to keep things easy to replace.

Toe on the rear is what it fell at after shiming for camber - forget what it is...but i've not got a twichy rear so left it alone.

Hope you mean machined HUB spacers and not machined wheel spacers - good for the clown look but naff all else I should think.

 

[Fred@BTM]

0.25mm per wheel isn't going to change the straight line speed much!

 

[MG cup]

Hope you mean machined HUB spacers and not machined wheel spacers - good for the clown look but naff all else I should think.

What did you change for more caster them, top mounts?

hahaha yeah don't worry its not my plan to have it wobble its way along the track.

 

[Toastfrenzy]

0.25mm per wheel isn't going to change the straight line speed much!

I'll take whatever I can get - no ITB's here...lol...(was meant as a bit of a jokey comment though)

 

[Toastfrenzy]

What did you change for more caster them, top mounts?

hahaha yeah don't worry its not my plan to have it wobble its way along the track.

Yes, AST, worth it for the castor alone...the new ones are better so you at least you can get a full spanner on the top mount nut.

 

[JezzaMac]

Got any pics of the camber from the rear looking down the quarter panel? I'm trying to decide what degree shims to have on mine.

Thats the only one I have mate and I would say it exaggerates it a little bit in the picture!