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Do you need to have...
- Thread starter Tombola
- Start date
The Boosh!
ClioSport Admin
Elise, Duster
No.
Claying removes bonded contaminants. Completely and utterly pointless waxing a car to clay it
For the tar spots try Tardis tar and glue remover. Cheap as chips on eBay.
Claying removes bonded contaminants. Completely and utterly pointless waxing a car to clay it
For the tar spots try Tardis tar and glue remover. Cheap as chips on eBay.
The Boosh!
ClioSport Admin
Elise, Duster
It's about £5 for a 500 ml bottle posted or £15 for a gallon I think.
Take a look here http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_...kw=autosmart+tardis&_sacat=See-All-Categories
OP - Try the 'basic guide to detailing' as you appear to have (some of) the gear, but no idea....
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...e-(Lost-when-the-articles-section-was-removed)
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/show...e-(Lost-when-the-articles-section-was-removed)
Before claying you want to:-
1.Rinse first to loosen the dirt and grime, or snowfoam if you have one.
2. using the 2BM if possible wash and clean car using a lambswool mitt.(B2BM shampoo is a good one)
3. Rinse
4. If AG tar remover isnt working us Tardis as said
5.Clay using a clay bar and a clay lube, if unsure read up(search button)
6.Rinse
7. you can polish at this stage of you wish
8. sealant/wax or both which ever you prefer
that is a very basic clean of the bodywork, dont forget the wheels aswell though.
1.Rinse first to loosen the dirt and grime, or snowfoam if you have one.
2. using the 2BM if possible wash and clean car using a lambswool mitt.(B2BM shampoo is a good one)
3. Rinse
4. If AG tar remover isnt working us Tardis as said
5.Clay using a clay bar and a clay lube, if unsure read up(search button)
6.Rinse
7. you can polish at this stage of you wish
8. sealant/wax or both which ever you prefer
that is a very basic clean of the bodywork, dont forget the wheels aswell though.
The Boosh!
ClioSport Admin
Elise, Duster
If you're claying it mate you are better to get some wax on there after as it completely strips everything off the paint so you will be rocking naked.
If you're getting Dave to polish it just do it all in one session if you can.
330Ci (Fail)Sport
Thanks Luke. I'll have to decide if it's worth claying and waxing tomorrow then as I don't want to spend too long on it. Just want it looking all clean and shiny for the family to see.
If I'm just claying the bonnet and front bumper for now for bug removal etc, will my car look stupid with only a waxed front end? Will it be obvious the rest of the car isn't waxed? If so, I'll just do it all in one go as you say. Cheers!
If I'm just claying the bonnet and front bumper for now for bug removal etc, will my car look stupid with only a waxed front end? Will it be obvious the rest of the car isn't waxed? If so, I'll just do it all in one go as you say. Cheers!
You should always polish after claying and always always spend time de-tarring before claying.
Claying imo isn't made to remove all the tar from you car, it's to remove bonded on contaminents. The more tar that you take off with the claybar the more damage you'll be inflicting on the paint sadly.
It'll always advisable to polish even by hand after claying due to the light marring that is left from claying even expertly.
My biggest tip is Tardis, tardis and some more tardis and then clay. I spent an hour with Tardis on that last golf I did and it removed 95% of the tar, my clay was nearly spotless after it.
Claying imo isn't made to remove all the tar from you car, it's to remove bonded on contaminents. The more tar that you take off with the claybar the more damage you'll be inflicting on the paint sadly.
It'll always advisable to polish even by hand after claying due to the light marring that is left from claying even expertly.
My biggest tip is Tardis, tardis and some more tardis and then clay. I spent an hour with Tardis on that last golf I did and it removed 95% of the tar, my clay was nearly spotless after it.
330Ci (Fail)Sport
So would you the follwing be ok:
Rinse, wash, rinse, AG tar remover if a little tar/Tardis if a lot, rinse, clay, rinse (or wash??), hand polish with SRP, wax/sealent
I don't want to spend more than a few hours on it tomorrow so if that's not ok, I'll just wash it for now and get some tardis and a machine polisher for when I can spend a day or two on it.
Sorry to the OP for hijacking but hopefully it'll help too...
Rinse, wash, rinse, AG tar remover if a little tar/Tardis if a lot, rinse, clay, rinse (or wash??), hand polish with SRP, wax/sealent
I don't want to spend more than a few hours on it tomorrow so if that's not ok, I'll just wash it for now and get some tardis and a machine polisher for when I can spend a day or two on it.
Sorry to the OP for hijacking but hopefully it'll help too...
Sounds ideal mate.
I wash/ spray after tardis as it can affect the clay br and degrade it then just wash after claying.
Some people think that may be overkill and that's where detailing and cleaning the car differ. "it's in the detail".
Pre-spray - Wash - de-tar - wash - clay - wash - dry - polish - cleanse - glaze - wax That's how I usually work roughly.
When I say wash I don't mean a full blown 2bm in between claying just a quick wash even just a citrus pre-spray and then PW off.
I wash/ spray after tardis as it can affect the clay br and degrade it then just wash after claying.
Some people think that may be overkill and that's where detailing and cleaning the car differ. "it's in the detail".
Pre-spray - Wash - de-tar - wash - clay - wash - dry - polish - cleanse - glaze - wax That's how I usually work roughly.
When I say wash I don't mean a full blown 2bm in between claying just a quick wash even just a citrus pre-spray and then PW off.
330Ci (Fail)Sport
Great, thanks Gally! There's a lot of info in the detailing section and it's pretty confusing for newbies but that's excellent info. Just what I've been wanting to know.
A couple of quick Qs if you don't mind (sorry if they seem silly):
1. Does de-tar only need to be used where tar can be seen near arches/front etc or generally along the front, back and along the lower sides of the car?
2. Is it ok just claying the front bumper, wings and bonnet for now where most of the bug contaminant is and then just polishing over where clayed or does the whole car ideally need to be clayed and polished before wax?
3. The glaze/wax is a new thing to me. I'm only just starting so will something like EGP cover both of these basis ok until I get more into it?
Ideally my aim is to start detailing properly in a month or so and take all swirls out of the paint and bring it to as good as original condition as possible over the summer. I'm trying to not modify the 330 and instead bring it to an immaculate condition, something I've never really done before.
A couple of quick Qs if you don't mind (sorry if they seem silly):
1. Does de-tar only need to be used where tar can be seen near arches/front etc or generally along the front, back and along the lower sides of the car?
2. Is it ok just claying the front bumper, wings and bonnet for now where most of the bug contaminant is and then just polishing over where clayed or does the whole car ideally need to be clayed and polished before wax?
3. The glaze/wax is a new thing to me. I'm only just starting so will something like EGP cover both of these basis ok until I get more into it?
Ideally my aim is to start detailing properly in a month or so and take all swirls out of the paint and bring it to as good as original condition as possible over the summer. I'm trying to not modify the 330 and instead bring it to an immaculate condition, something I've never really done before.
1. De-tar/clay the full car, doesn't take too long. The rear bumper/tailgate/tailgate glass usually are quite bad for tar and of course the roof for sap and contaminents. It's not just tar but general grime you're removing.
2. I'd do everything, all the glass, lights, bodypanels. If you don't have time then wait until you do. Or full clay the car and then do the polishing the day after.
3. Glaze don't worry about. EGP is a sealant so just use that after SRP and you'll be fine until you buy a wax to use after EGP.
Autoglym HD wax is very good beginner wax and comes with a little kit. £25 from amazon iirc.
2. I'd do everything, all the glass, lights, bodypanels. If you don't have time then wait until you do. Or full clay the car and then do the polishing the day after.
3. Glaze don't worry about. EGP is a sealant so just use that after SRP and you'll be fine until you buy a wax to use after EGP.
Autoglym HD wax is very good beginner wax and comes with a little kit. £25 from amazon iirc.
If not mate just make sure you get it all clayed in one go. Then when you next get a chance, within 1 week... wash it and then polish wax.
My winter detail I done all the wet work the day before then polished all day at work the day after. SRP should take that long by hand where as I was correcting by machine. If you started in the morning you'd be done by dinner time if you were at it all day.
I know it's never as simple as that! Lols.
Happy to help!
My winter detail I done all the wet work the day before then polished all day at work the day after. SRP should take that long by hand where as I was correcting by machine. If you started in the morning you'd be done by dinner time if you were at it all day.
I know it's never as simple as that! Lols.
Happy to help!
330Ci (Fail)Sport
I hadn't thought this through clearly. I was hoping to be done within 3-4hrs lol
The last time I polished was 7 years ago. I had a red Rover, which was already heavily oxidised and I didn't buff out the polish properly, so it looked a light shade of pink :s lol I think I'll split it for now then!
The last time I polished was 7 years ago. I had a red Rover, which was already heavily oxidised and I didn't buff out the polish properly, so it looked a light shade of pink :s lol I think I'll split it for now then!
If you're going to be anal then you've missed a couple of key steps.
Wheels/Arches. Then Pressure rinse - Wash - de-tar & Wipe - Ironx & Wipe - wash - clay - dry - polish - Refine - Seal/Glaze - wax
Wheels should be first! No need to wash between clay and polish. Not sure wtf Cleanse is!? (You clearly are a detailing sucker) Your refinement stage will strip everything back. (E.G Swissvax cleaner fluid) Some people glaze and seal, some don't. Typically Refine straight to the LSP.
It's overkill!
Lols at detailing sucker! No need to be anal, the guys hardly correcting his paint with a makita and 8 polishes.
The best product I was ever introduced to was pre-wax cleansers. Ipa wipe down is fine but to me ipa wipe down is only for 100% correction details.
Swissvax cleaner fliud regular is a pre-wax cleanser.
A pre-wax cleanser gives a fantastic base for an expensive LSP that you don't want failing after a couple of weeks due to oils being left on the paint from polishing ect... just preference at the end of the day but I always cleanse/glaze/wax.
I believe a glaze on the right paint can add something to the finish so why would I not use it. No one is to say what is right and what is wrong. Everyone has their own way!
Grumpy c**t!
The best product I was ever introduced to was pre-wax cleansers. Ipa wipe down is fine but to me ipa wipe down is only for 100% correction details.
Swissvax cleaner fliud regular is a pre-wax cleanser.
A pre-wax cleanser gives a fantastic base for an expensive LSP that you don't want failing after a couple of weeks due to oils being left on the paint from polishing ect... just preference at the end of the day but I always cleanse/glaze/wax.
I believe a glaze on the right paint can add something to the finish so why would I not use it. No one is to say what is right and what is wrong. Everyone has their own way!
Grumpy c**t!
